IanS

Needs to be done with the engine running so that the alternator is producing electricity.

Sensor wire to the adaptor indicating max temp certainly is good, that leaves damaged sensor.

If removing the tape did not help check the earth wire from the adaptor is still connected both ends.

Before I did anything else I would check the actual voltage at the battery terminals. There are so many possible points of high resistance that could cause this of which the alternator earth is only one. If the voltage is good at the battery then the problem is in the wiring to the voltmeter. (including its earth) If the voltage is low at the battery then the charging circuit is suspect. If charging is at fault then measure voltage from alternator body to Battery -ve which should be below 100mV if not check voltage alternator body to engine block. Be methodical in running voltage checks before fitting random wires.

I am sorry to hear this news. My condolences to Sylvia. We had some interesting discussions at Stoneliegh.

All S7 kits were sold long before SVA/IVA. Most would have been complete and registered before SVA/IVA. Registration in those days (before late 97) was a bit hit and miss depending on your local registration authority and most did not understand the rules and were only interested in it not being a ringer so would be easily convinced that it was the first kit of that type. Allocation of VIN for amateur has been officially from the DVLA from the set up of the DVLA but this is not checked. So most probably it was the first build by the original builder. Bask in the glory

PTFE is a good electrical insulator so you have probably found the problem. The question is why it ever worked, I am guessing that the original PTFE did not fully cover the thread leaving a bit to just about provide an earth.

I am in Warrington so a few miles north of you. We recently had a run out round winter hill near north of Bolton. I expect that we will do more run outs but am looking for a route for the next one. PM me if you want to talk. Ian

I also use firefox and its is there

Could your alternator not be repaired? I have had good repairs from my local auto electrician, MC alternators in warrington, tel 01925 415275. This is an old fashoned 1 man operation so no web site but good service.

Dakar kit car might not be your ideal but appears to be a 4WD kit that is available. Being land rover based might be a bit heavy for you. http://www.dakar4x4.me.uk/

There was a version of the Dax Rush based on the 4wd sierra. Doners are now very few for this.

2l Zetec water pump needs the aircon compressor for the belt path to work. 1.8 water pump rotates the other way as it does not have a aircon compresssor. It sounds like you are into upgradeitus

I had a good day out, thanks for the pics. ian

See you around 11 Ian

The thing to remember about pancake filters is that on thin ones the restriction is the distance from the top of the carb to the top plate of the filter not the area of the foam filters. Top plate on a filter like the one sparepart should be at least 1/3 carb inlet diameter above top lip of carb and idealy 1/2 diameter.

I am up for a run out. When?

SVA - IVA certificate is not returned after registration it is retained at DVLA. Check MOT history on line <https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history> if it has history as a robin hood then you are good. Get insurance, book an MOT, apply for road tax, drive. Registration number is probably age related to doner rather than actual doner reg.

Remember that when soldering you will need strain relief beyond the end of the solder. If the wire to a soldered joint is allowed to vibrate then there is a stress concentration at the end of the solder leading to early failure. I worked in the aircraft industry and crimping was the prefered way to do connectors but we used calibrated crimp tools. DT plugs are good but need the correct crimp tool, if done correctly then soldering harms rather than helps. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071KFLY43/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B071KFLY43&pd_rd_w=dFwq1&pf_rd_p=a8d38b47-cfdf-4208-95a0-1af779cb6e7d&pd_rd_wg=6LINW&pf_rd_r=94H2BTJQYX4QYP6W4C2H&pd_rd_r=cc34204e-5f06-4ad0-9b35-1c0600516dac&s=automotive&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSUpRRFNQRkhSRTBZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjE5OTgwNUxZMk5MVlZMRFlDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NDIzMjIzMUlXUTM5V0tIOUszJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== is one reasonable crimp tool.

Just keep driving the year round, problem solved.

It always was bank holiday with Saturday for exhibitors to set up and public attendance Sunday & Monday.

I am interested.

Series 3 did not have a build manual as such instead it came with VHS videos. I understand that these are available on utube, be warned the film director was on his first video production and it shows.

Fantastic news! Now to enjoy driving

If imperial was a possibity I would say 31/64th inch. (worked in aircraft industry where imperial bolts still used with increments of 1/64) 31/64 would be 3rd oversize repair bolt for 7/16 initial bolt. On most builds the rear subframe rubber donut was removed and a new hole drilled to fit a 12mm bolt throught the floor and reinforcing plate as advocated by RS in the build videos.