Jez Morton

Steve, Looking at pictures it does't look to bad, should be able to make goood. You'll need to check if any issues extend from the area of the "thermal event", if its just local to the area then just replace the burnt wires. I doubt you'll have an issue with the starter or alternator as the current would have ran from battery to chassis through the cooked cable. Jez

I think the numbers on the edis are cylinders not firing order, if you follow the ford firing order 142536 then this follows the coils as pairs 1/5 3/4 2/6 and repeat. If you swap 1/5 and 2/6 first spark is 3/4 second is 1/5 and third is 2/6 fourth is 3/4 fifth is 1/5 sixth is 2/6. So 1 2 and 3 dont fire.

That sort of thing in your picture left to right coils are 2 3 1, my theory is its wired 1 3 2. So if you look at the numbers on the edis as cylinder numbers connecting 1 to 1 and 2 to 2 etc as Zac did cylinders 1 2 and 3 dont get a spark.

Thanks for all you've done for the club Phil, anyone who selflessly volunteers to help others earns my respect.

Zac, hold fire i may have worked it out. I have a scenario where 1 2 and 3 fire in the wrong place. Basically the coils are reversed a b c is actually c b a. This means the wasted spark misses 1 2 and 3. Try leads as follows cylinder to edis 1 to 3 2 to 1 3 to 2 4 to 4 5 to 5 6 to 6.

Hi Danny, a couple of pics for you. You can see you need to reform the ends and also reprofile to the body side. I think this is most you can lower the stainless and grp arches without having to modify the grp. Come along to the next Midlands meet and I could talk you through what I did.

Hi there, I lowered my arches on my 2B and kept Grp unmodified. I reduced the angle of the stainless where it meets the body. I think i did one fixing tab at the rear and two at the front, I have 10 tabs at front for reference. I removed the stainless and reformed the returns at the front and back, you need to keep the start of the return on the outside the same to match the grp. You also need to put in new piece of stainliess to cover the holes at the top of the body side. To check I removed the wings complete and dropped them on the lowest fixing point, this way you can see the what the gap will be and make sure the angles at the front and rear will go up from the body. Jez

Hi Martin I did find a way to get it out, I used a Waltons broken tap extactor. It was jammed because it was in a number of pieces so they locked each other when you tried to turn it. So thankfully trailing arm no longer required, cars all ready for Stoneleigh.

Thanks for all the replies. Its good news the tap extractor did the job, had to work it back a forward to keep the bits of tap aligned but after a few turns in the right direction it whizzed out. Quite impressive as the tap in the hole was actually in 4 pieces, I wouldn't have fancied putting a lot of load on the tool as the legs can twist but it got it done. A happy Jez

Spark erode is plan B or C, not sure what sort of price to expect though.

A bit more detail, the tap broke in one of the rear hub bolt holes. One the end of the tap is flush with one end of the hole and the broken end flush with the other. The tap that is left in the hole is in two parts each of which has a little play, so individually they aren't stuck but are hanging up on each other. Hopefully the tap remover will move both parts together so they dont fight each other. I'm guessing the tap broke in the hole then trying to back it out I snapped the end off.

Hi all, in particular the engineers amongst you. Has anyone had any experience using broken tap extractors, I'm looking at using a Walton tap removal tool to try and shift a broken tap. Are they any good? One thing that isn't clear is the sizes, are they for thread sizes or a diameter. http://www.waltontools.com/products/extract-machsc-hand.htm

Anyone nearby got a spare nearside sierra rear trailing arm. Had a nightmare with the hub bolts, to cut a long story short theres half a tap broke off in one the hub bolt threaded holes and I cant see anyway to get it out. Cheers Jez

Should be there if I can the new wheel bearing in and get MOTed.

You should have tried leaving near it, it got even better when they put a new bridge at the end of the A46. I had two routes to get to work, yep Tollbar island or A46.

I use standard sierra mirror but its what its stuck on woth that makes a difference. Dont use the sticky pads go for a mirror bonder like Locktite 319 sticks it rock solid.

I know I think the Sierra is a bit of a dinosaur now. At least i had plenty of practice changing the bearings when there was a batch, this one hasn't lasted 5k miles? didnt expect to touch them again.

Finished all the winter mods, oil change done, car cleaned, insurance sorted, MOT failed. Dont believe it first MOT failure I've had for years, rear wheel bearing grumbling. So much for some fun in the sun today, had to order a bearing no one stocks them so another week without the car.

The silencer is very hot, but the pipes as they leave the body are effing hot. I've always found metal heatshields over the silencer always end up about the same temp as the silencer. If I had to do something i think would make a simple cage with thin bar that isnt attached to the exhaust, just to create space between the exhaust and skin.

I've only gone and booked up, can't wait. Please dont rain! Please dont rain! Please dont rain! Please dont rain!

You would have got further if you'd actually burnt the fuel rather than spread it around wales.

Sounds good I'm in.

You may need the inline capacitor thingy the sierra would have had fitted to clean the signal. Black box with two wires coming off it around 20x30mm if i remember correctly. A friends tacho was reading wrong nearly double i think until I fitted the capacitor/suppressor thingy.

Sounds like the valve is out, if vapours coming out. On mine I only got a light mist around the oil cap that could be wiped off now and again but that was the old style cap without a vent pipe. You could try connecting the vents to the air filter through the back plate that may give enough draw to remove the fumes.

Have you removed the one way valve from the crank breather, this will allow pressure to build in the block which leaves through path of least resistance the filler cap breather. I had this problem on my last car which had twin webbers it sprayed oil out all over top of engine. Pull crank breather pipe out of the engine and there should be a metal piece at the end with a hole in the bottom, cut the bottom off it and a plunger and spring should come out. I did this and just added a filter to the top of the pipe and no more issues. I think the one way valve is to stop fuel getting in the block as its normally connected to inlet manifold, when the engine is running the vacumn in the inlet draws the fumes out and they get burnt in the engine. Jez