Bob Tucker

Rally design carry a good selection, but why not try Dampertech if you have already dealt with them? https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=1153

If possible moving the seat back a little will help.

What pedal system do you have? Do you have a return spring on the pedal?. The calipers themselves wont have enough back pressure to return the pedal.

Only the top bleed screws need bleeding. The other 2 are only there so you can mount the caliper either way up. Start with the simple possibilities. Is the brake pedal itself binding on its bearings? When it sticks down, try pulling it up by hand. I assume you do mean it sticks down?

Unfortunately there is only one guy at Hi-Spec who knows his stuff. Back when I was building my car I quickly gave up with them, but they were selling rebadged Wilwood gear. I got all my stuff from Rally Design, who were always happy to chat over options, but more importantly steered me away from some of my own ideas. If this is your caliper (I cant see any other 2 pot calipers) their description shows M10x1 http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk//ultralite-2.html

Ive been caught in some awful rain ,mainly when abroad, but I dont have any leaks from the front of the doors. I made sure the fabric of the door sits inside the screen pillar. With the door closed, the fabric pushes up hard against the pillar and seals it.

type 9 reverse is down, left & forward. MT75 is different, IIRC down, right, back.

That looks identical to mine on dellortos. Mine came from rally design. https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=368_511_517&products_id=3346

Some interesting info here... Beware limiting flow....a hard press on the pedal can force fluid into the slave cylinder, but when you let off you are relying on the brake shoe springs to push it back, which will be slow meaning the rear brakes will come off later than the fronts. BAD news! https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1573233

Jandrcvjoints.co.uk Look for their stretch boot. You also need the plastic cone to fit it, may be worth a call to explain what you need

beg a drive in someone elses car, or get them to try yours.

Just found it cheaper here... https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1625137720?iid=390743231133

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1625137720?iid=162892818230&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162892818230&targetid=909953938039&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9044980&poi=&campaignid=10199630638&mkgroupid=101938330797&rlsatarget=pla-909953938039&abcId=1145987&merchantid=7387434&gclid=CjwKCAjw97P5BRBQEiwAGflV6eUNEWEs870_0OjYbixbbkRaWmLV3RuLOny2dflL2A6fgNYefI5LwhoCcTIQAvD_BwE

Keep 'em coming Neil, really enjoying them.

https://www.burtonpower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=spray+bar+pinto

A heavy duty spring either end of the shorter cable? Post some pics of the setup. especially the throttle pedal. Can you connect the supercharger cable a bit higher than the other throttle cable giving more throw?

Solder the end of the wire. Clean it using W&D paper first, then soapy water, clean water, warm air to dry, then lots of flux. Run solder into the final inch or so.

A bit off topic now, so I'll leave the thread for the OP's st170 question after this. Thats the final figure. I tighten in 3 equal (ish) steps, finishing up at 32 and 65. But I stress they are ARP non-stretch bolts/studs, so no direct comparison for stretch bolts. The rod end bolts torque figure seems crazily low, but this is the 4th redtop ive built, all using ARP rod bolts. One was even designed for 8k rpm with forged rods, & is still running strong (right Kevin?) https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/109-6001.pdf

Just for interest I'm building a modified Redtop (again) using ARP bolts everywhere. The settings are 32 ft lbs big end bolts, and 65ft lbs mains studs.

Well those figures are backed up here too, but it does seem to refer to ARP bolts https://www.focaljet.com/threads/torque-specs-zetec-engine.510001/

I am coming at this from zero knowledge of this engine, but it seems odd that the conrod bolts are far tighter than the mains bolts, or is that all to do with different stretch properties? Just interested.

Just re-read earlier posts.... Hi Blue, yes, the engine fires after spraying with holts, but peters out after a few revs. That sounds more & more like water in the carb

i'd also make sure the carb is empty. Water in the float chamber will screw things up. You probably need to remove the top of the carb, lift out the float and mop out the fuel chamber.

Been shut up too long....confusing 2 different threads... I promise I'll try harder next time....

The Ford VV carb is not one of the best. Look for a Weber DGV, (manual choke) or DGAV (auto choke), or a DGAS (hens teeth) you will also need the manifold that goes with it, yours will not fit. Otherwise you can get a refurb kit for the VV here.. https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/fordfomocomotorcraft-vv-carbcarburettor-servicegasket-kit