Bob Tucker

If you need one rear panel and 2 side panels isnt that £360 inc. vat? (120+90+90) + 20%vat (£60)

My typing is getting slower......maybe im getting old... Also the 400mm measurement is from the widest part of the car, ie the REAR wings, not the front.

https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/930247/individual-vehicle-approval-inspection-manual-passenger-vehicles.pdf https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-cars-help-to-get-a-pass/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-cars-help-to-get-a-pass#headlampaim

The front indicators need to be visible from certain angles. The westfield site used to list them, but they are no longer there. Best bet is to search out a downloadable IVA manual....they do exist. PISTONHEADS is a good resource. Also if you check almost any picture of a 7 type car you'll see the front indicators have to be extended on stalks to meet the requirements.

A small amount of toe-in can also help self-centreing if you cant increase caster.

The pinto is a non interference engine. If the cam belt snaps, the pistons wont hit the valves at any rotation. Check the pistons for any valve cutouts (cant remember my old pinto details), and see how far the pistons are below the deck block. Also dont forget the thickness of the head gasket. There are tips on youtube

Ive got a diy plywood boot lid, covered in vinyl, with a lock like this where the tongue goes under the edge of the body panel, and above the upper chassis tube. It should be possible to do summat similar on the zero chassis/body. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/camlocks/1929654?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Security_%26_Ironmongery_Whoop-_-Camlocks_Whoop+(2)-_-1929654&matchtype=&pla-529537852232&gclid=Cj0KCQjwit_8BRCoARIsAIx3Rj66eeBTztBkyn-sZrV1kJQ9le2Zsiok42uHQC3LZLIvukZQSFbpe7YaApfOEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=25524

The 38 DGAS is a very good carb on a warm pinto. Problem is they are mostly 30+ years old so the brass bushings on the butterfly rods can be worn and cause air leaks. There lots of info out there, eg.... http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=97348

If the joint is OK you can just replace the rubber boot without removing the joint. Check the sizes against your ball joint. These fitted the Astra ball joints on my 2B. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Advantage-Universal-Neoprene-Cover-Boots/dp/B08374ZNVT/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=track+rod+ball+joint+boots&qid=1602789988&quartzVehicle=845-901&replacementKeywords=rod+ball+joint+boots&sr=8-10

Hiya, the vernier cams only adjust the timing of the camshafts, not the ignition timing. Be very careful if they are set up wrong. They could cause the valves to hit the pistons. Get them set to the figure given by the cam supplier. 16 degrees at idle is too far advanced. I dont know the exact figure but 10 degrees is about right, give or take 2. The ECU will control ignition advance from idle to max advance. Sorry, I dont know how the MBE sets idle timing. I'd recommend a rolling road session to get it all set up correctly.

How about some kind of friction hinge that stays where its put? https://www.google.com/search?q=small+friction+hinge&newwindow=1&client=avg&hl=en&sxsrf=ALeKk03cz_OWFA3PoSWuUsn2Mgt9dY_S-g:1602415888876&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiz2dquuKzsAhVIXMAKHaIrD1sQ_AUoAnoECDMQBA&biw=1280&bih=578

Rally design carry a good selection, but why not try Dampertech if you have already dealt with them? https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=1153

If possible moving the seat back a little will help.

What pedal system do you have? Do you have a return spring on the pedal?. The calipers themselves wont have enough back pressure to return the pedal.

Only the top bleed screws need bleeding. The other 2 are only there so you can mount the caliper either way up. Start with the simple possibilities. Is the brake pedal itself binding on its bearings? When it sticks down, try pulling it up by hand. I assume you do mean it sticks down?

Unfortunately there is only one guy at Hi-Spec who knows his stuff. Back when I was building my car I quickly gave up with them, but they were selling rebadged Wilwood gear. I got all my stuff from Rally Design, who were always happy to chat over options, but more importantly steered me away from some of my own ideas. If this is your caliper (I cant see any other 2 pot calipers) their description shows M10x1 http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk//ultralite-2.html

Ive been caught in some awful rain ,mainly when abroad, but I dont have any leaks from the front of the doors. I made sure the fabric of the door sits inside the screen pillar. With the door closed, the fabric pushes up hard against the pillar and seals it.

type 9 reverse is down, left & forward. MT75 is different, IIRC down, right, back.

That looks identical to mine on dellortos. Mine came from rally design. https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=368_511_517&products_id=3346

Some interesting info here... Beware limiting flow....a hard press on the pedal can force fluid into the slave cylinder, but when you let off you are relying on the brake shoe springs to push it back, which will be slow meaning the rear brakes will come off later than the fronts. BAD news! https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1573233

Jandrcvjoints.co.uk Look for their stretch boot. You also need the plastic cone to fit it, may be worth a call to explain what you need

beg a drive in someone elses car, or get them to try yours.

Just found it cheaper here... https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1625137720?iid=390743231133

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1625137720?iid=162892818230&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162892818230&targetid=909953938039&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9044980&poi=&campaignid=10199630638&mkgroupid=101938330797&rlsatarget=pla-909953938039&abcId=1145987&merchantid=7387434&gclid=CjwKCAjw97P5BRBQEiwAGflV6eUNEWEs870_0OjYbixbbkRaWmLV3RuLOny2dflL2A6fgNYefI5LwhoCcTIQAvD_BwE