brumster

5th is in a separate aluminium casing on the back of the main box so it could explain why the noise disappears when in 5th, but it's kind of odd that just pushing the clutch down makes it go away. I wonder if pressure from the clutch is moving the input shaft just enough that whatever is graunching gets enough pressure on it for the noise to go away. I was going to say clutch release bearing but when you said it goes away in 5th that makes no sense Inspect inside the bellhousing just for any unusual signs but I suspect it will indeed be gearbox out and pop the top cover off, should be fairly obvious to anyone who's stripped a box before. Probably a bearing gone and due to shaft movement backwards to forwards, you're running a gear against something it shouldn't be hitting :). Probably slowly wearing away part of the casing, selector or something. Don't go too far with it like that until you've figured out what it is! Check the clutch release bearing anyway, I can't really explain why the noise would go away in 5th but fingers crossed it might just be that, they can certainly be noisy when they've gone but the noise normally relates to pedal pressure on the clutch rather than engine speed or gears...

Techcraft silencer here, they are well respected in the Locost racing scene as (i) they meet the noise requirements and (ii) are sturdy and repackable.

You can get to IVA pass levels without the need for a dyno; an MOT gas analyzer will tell you all you need to know. Obviously you need a local garage who's happy to either let you use it while you tune (if you know your way around the mapping aspect) or who is happy to make the adjustments for you, but... But a rolling road trip isn't a bad idea of course; still worthwhile. Just make sure your rolling road tester knows what you're asking for. A lot of the time they are more focused on getting power numbers than emissions !

Sound pressure level, you're sorted

I'm up for it too, but can't commit to a ticket this early, but unless there's any surprises heading my way consider me there...

I can't contribute much but I would ask/question where you got 3deg of negative camber from, because that sounds like a LOT !?

Rich, +3 attending here please.

I always use Westfield Fasteners myself...

lol, arse! Typical!

No worries! The Sony action cam is about the only one I can think of that gets close to image quality of GoPro, so that's another one to consider/look in to

Does anyone have a type 9 casing they don't need? A friend in another motor club has a cracked gearbox and needs to replace the main casing. He doesn't particularly need a functional gearbox so it can be just the main casing itself, or a knackered gearbox, or so forth... or a complete gearbox of course, but I suspect with the money people want for them this might not work for him but, hey, let me know what you have Cheers, Dan

I have been through many. Go Pro Hero 2, Hero 3, Session, SJCAM 5000, SJ8 Air, Drift Stealth 2, Drift Ghost HD, and a couple of remote bullet cams. Without exception, the image quality on the GoPros is hands down better than anything else when it comes to rapid motion. If image quality is important to you - I am not talking resolution here, but the camera's capability to compress the image cleanly and quickly with artefacting - then buy yourself a 2nd hand GoPro and be done. As said above, GoPro just keep re-inventing themselves with more models with more features that are largely irrelevant. If you're after cheap as chips basic camera capability, I'd suggest the SJCAM range too, the older 5000 series is size-compatible with the GoPro so you can share all the accessories. For helmet cameras (action cams) for motorbike or mountain biking, I would change my recommendation though, the new Drift Ghost X would get my vote hands-down for practicality. If you are interested, I have a number of cameras I can bring along to the next meet from the above selection and I'd be quite happy to get rid of a few of them so you can check them out and make me an offer on one if you like?

Might pop over for breakfast, play it by ear from there be good to see you all...

A noise meter

As per above, provided the springs are retained suitably that they can't unseat you should be fine. I failed an MOT once but that was because the ropes weren't in place; I was never a fan of them to be honest. I lockwired the spring tops as a temporary measure but I think for IVA you'd want something more permanent. Much as it looks a kludge, the rope approach works I'd maybe just do something a little more professional/permanent looking for IVA, maybe a top cup/seat for the spring (over and above the simple rectangular 'tray' you get as standard) that holds it in place.... but ultimately restricting the amount of droop on the suspension is the sound idea and the rope system certainly does it cost-effectively!

Same here! Otherwise I'm not touching it. I've spent 4 years building the thing, it can stay in one piece for as long as possible ! Gearbox swap on the other car to do though... so that'll keep me busy...

Robin Hood did a coilover kit/upgrade for the Exmo that put it all where your current damper is, and the existing spring just went bye-bye (the space left empty). You could make up something similar although obviously you would need to make your own mounting plate for the top - I wouldn't re-use the RHE one you have for the damper. You want something with some strength in it, maybe pick up/extend the red bracket you have there that mounts the rear section to the tub. *If* you decide to go that route it won't make the thing magically handle any better though so I wouldn't get too tied up about it.

I did the tie-bar conversion on my monocoque Exmo; as has been said, it was a very common conversion and it made a wealth of difference (coupled with softer springs). Lots of details on this forum and other sites - I won't regurgitate what it involves.

Aluminium will need lots of polishing to look nice, unless you fancied anodising it. Would be a bit reflective if not. Stainless would be *very* reflective. I'd think more an opaque plastic myself, or otherwise trim/aquadip whatever you choose. The plastic would be easier to work with, you could pretty much cut it at home if you wanted to, but if you have access to someone with a water cutter then that's a winner, whatever material you chose. If you needed it translating into a CAD design I could happily knock that up for you in a few minutes if you told me the essential dimensions - just let me know via PM if need be

No worries. I dunno if you know how to trace through something like Firefox's Inspector tool to track CSS down to the appropriate part, but if I can help just ask. The CSS responsible for the white background seems to be in a dynamically-generated (?) CSS because the path is rather obtuse-looking : https://www.rhocar.org/uploads/css_built_2/341e4a57816af3ba440d891ca87450ff_framework.css.c8c4ca0417630096d2d5d6a821a7336f.css?v=de279c56da So might not be an easy edit : .ipsBox:not(.ipsBox_transparent):not(.ipsModerated) { background-color: #fff; }

Ah good point, it's just on the Surface Dark theme - the others are OK (but the white background is too harsh for my knackered old eyes ;] )...

I presume you might be trying things out, but just for reference, the logo in the top left corner of the website/forum is unintelligible with the text on it like it is. It scales down so much I can't make out anything on it. You might be better off just having the picture logo only rather than trying to cram all the text in there (or else increase the top left container size but then that'll up the whole search/title bar height which I wouldn't say was ideal)... Not complaining, just feeding back

I've got a Halford Industrial from years ago, it's very good and still in original working order as the day I bought it. It *looks* like they now sell it as the "Advanced" range - they models look largely identical; they've changed the top cabinet design slightly. On that basis it would get my recommendation, but only at the deal price, certainly not at full RRP !

Do you mean these? https://www.cherrybomb.co.uk/epages/wduqaub4xva7.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/wduqaub4xva7/Categories/Side_pipes

Assuming you're happy to remove the input shaft yourself, it should be fairly easy to find an engineering firm who would turn down the input shaft end for you... a fairly routine job for anyone with a suitable lathe/workholding (assuming the input shaft isn't anything too weird and wonderful). I can think of loads in the Midlands area, plus one in Derbyshire, that I am on talking terms with but you really want someone local you can just pop in to. I would start looking on google maps/business directories for engineering firms local to you - target the typical light-industrial business parks of which I'm sure you have loads. With a bit of ringing-around and some friendly visits-in-person by yourself, I suspect you'll find some machine shop that'll do it out-of-hours for you, for £20 in the hand of the operator who does it A lot of kit building and jobs like this rely on you building up a reparté with small businesses. Never underestimate the power of walking into a place unannounced and having a polite, friendly chat with the guy on the front desk. "Alright mate? Listen, I dunno whether you can help me with this little problem, I'm trying to find somewhere that would do..." ...and away you go ;). Rememeber the phrase "No I don't need a VAT receipt"