brumster

Weather report is NOT looking promising, it must be said

Now sold

In my opinion, no. If you want a windscreen, then it makes far more sense to put the necessary related items (wipers, heater, squibbers) in place while you are building, it is so much easier and you're not then ripping the car apart again after IVA to retrofit it all. There is no challenge to putting a car through IVA with a windscreen bar the rear view mirror vibration that I encountered (and ultimately fixed!)...

You've probably seen it, but this was a thread I raised before I built... http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=41972 I agree, it's missing the numerals, but it does have TEMPERED written on it clearly. And, for what it's worth, on my IVA I never noticed the tester take a long hard look at the marking anyway. Given it's almost a mandatory 1st fail on IVA anyway, I'd be tempted to run with it as-is and if it fails you can remove the glass as a template and get one made up with the correct markings, refit and retest.

At the moment it's Sierra-like in that it pulls in, so the cable goes into the front perpendicular like most RHs. You can see in one of the pics, the lug on the pedal is at the top so it pulls it back towards the driver. I suppose if you wanted it to pull up you could either cut the lug off and move it/weld another one on, further round... I'd be more tempted to make some sort of roller wheel mechanism outside of the box that you could run the inner cable around to point it in the direction you wanted... maybe?

Probably the area meet gives you more chance to chat and learn about stuff, but even on this run-out I suspect there will be breaks for lunch and a natter... but yeah, I'd recommend one of the regional club nights more for that really... unless you bagsy a lift in a member's car and chat with them while out on the run

That gizmo-on-runners thing that they position in front of each headlight has markings in it, the tester looks at the spread of light inside the unit against these markers and checks that the pattern conforms to the requirements. It's not just height they're checking (or should be checking ) edit: here you go, if you're interested

I'll come to you and run up with you if that's ok (assuming weather/etc)...?

^ What he said. I would never even contemplate ringing Direct Line (et al) for a quote assuming that's what you've done. If a kit specialist is asking daft questions like "is it standard" then I'd try another; like you say, what on earth is the measure of "standard" !?

Let's start the sweepstake then, what is it... - Slippy diff? - Disc brake conversion? - New brake shoes? - New driveshafts? - Diff ratio change? - New springs? - New dampers? - Replacing bushes - Some geometry fiddle? - Sparkle-effect handbrake cable?

Call it £50

I've got an OBP for sale and you're only local, if it helps...? http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=46679 You're welcome to buy it and if it doesn't fit for any reason I'll take it back...

Possibly; I'll have a chat with the boss... and probably weather dependent (ie. a Wales-Weekend-Friday repeat I'm not after, but I'm not against a smidgen of rain )

I will stand by Sikaflex 221, that stuff will stick anything to anything, like $**t to a blanket I love the stuff!

I take it there is a reason you can't bolt it on with the appropriate nylon black/white nuts?!

I think he means roof-hood thing. I have one for a Zero but I doubt it'll fit a 2B?

Funny timing of thread; I saw this on my facebook feed this morning

No guide that I'm aware of, but a 2B owner might know more. What you've done is obviously a little special in that it's a conversion from sliding pillar, but it's not the first, that I'm sure of - I would have thought GBS could advise, if they have provided the conversion kit. What rack do they suggest to use with it? Not being a 2B owner myself I'm less au fait with this particular conversion you've done.

Mk.II rack is what's fitted to the Ford-based Zeros. There are differing types (long/short pinion) but that doesn't really matter for yourself. You will almost certain need to modify the arms in length anyway, so you'll be stripping it down a little to remove the steering arms anyway. The racks are plentiful and easy enough to come by cheaply... in a variety of ratios too.

I only remember the number plate of my own cars might be worth a picture to jog people's memories if they remember seeing it at a show, club meet, etc?

Seems fair to me, I wouldn't be quibbling or shopping around over £18. Front seal is a PITA to do though...

Nice vid, interesting! I think it's one thing to be using these types of washers on mission/life-critical systems but I won't be rushing to swap all the bolts on a car for them . I lockwire the important stuff, and I also torque seal bolts where I need to know if they've shifted. I've yet to find a bolt loosened where it shouldn't have

....and I'm all fixed again, fwiw braaaap, sweet as a nut! Let's see how long this one lasts, if it goes again it's Duratec time

Nothing with engines is ever cheap if you're doing it right (14 valves down, head gasket, head bolts, timing belt, tensioner, new tensioner bolt because I don't trust the old one now, new cam cover gasket.... )