Jump to content


RHOCaR Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by brumster

  1. Interesting - my lawn mower has a warning on the filler not to use more than 10% ethanol-mix fuel. I wondered what that was all about! I've learnt something today I only ever put Super into the kit anyway so I won't worry too much... but I have seen what happens to crappy/cheap non-rated "fuel" pipes when used with even E5 fuel so your statement above doesn't surprise me...!
  2. Brett Sims is a straight and honest guy, he gets my thumbs up. He did the head on my competition car when he worked for Longman; he worked there for years and learnt from Richard Longman so he knows his way around head work. If you're just after a straightforward recondition and mild tidy-up he can probably do that with his eyes closed
  3. Good luck! The timed sprint section will be a minefield of legislation, public indemnity insurance and so forth - might be worth interacting with a local MSUK-affiliated club to run it as a formal event, which would probably make it easier than trying to arrange something yourself.
  4. It's not a simple question to answer really, if you scour eBay you'll find all manner of engines available for less than £3k but the cost of your engine swap isn't the engine itself, it's all the ancillaries as Zed says... inlet/induction/fuel delivery, exhaust, gearbox and/or gearbox adapter plate, custom engine mounts, coolant pipework, sump clearance costs and so forth (latter probably not an issue on the Exmo). Depends on your appetite for doing something different versus just doing what's known as works, is plentiful, cost-effective and meets whatever your needs are in terms of performance... in which case, going Zetec is what everyone else does and is a known, low-risk approach But if you want to stand out from the crowd, go Ford/Jag V6, Rover V8, Toyota straight 6, Hyundai 3-pot turbo, Lambo V10, yada yada yada and budget a fortune to adapt it for all the bits above
  5. It *used* to be the case that the GBS screens were not IVA compliant. I would check they have all the relevant markings before you order.
  6. Back in the old days all kit car VINs were assigned by the DVLA and began "SABTVA". I say this because I had 3 kit cars in the 90's and they all followed this format - except one of the cars, which was misread by whoever entered it into the computer, so I had a GTM with "SABTVR" instead X-D I think the take-away here is that the two departments in the DVLA/DVSA/whatever don't really talk or act in any connected way, so whoever issues/comes up with VINs is separate to whoever accepts the paperwork you send them, and provided when the VIN is entered into their system it doesn't already exist, no-one in the DVLA really cares. There is a formal process, as I've mentioned on the forums before, for requesting a chassis number and it is simple and it works - they send me one in the space of a few weeks... but a lot of people prefer to just make up their own. Personally, I'm a stickler for process, but hey ho - each to their own
  7. When we did the Rover K swap our Exmo we had to cut these to clear the sump. We removed what we needed to then stitch-welded a 30mm square section piece of steel down the length to put some strength back in. Never any problems for us
  8. I had a mate who was a Powerflow franchise - Powerflow supply the parts and, as you say, each garage bends and welds to your spec. Simspon I wouldn't bother with any more - I had some stainless tubing from them on the Zero; they were expensive and it's discoloured already compared to much cheaper stainless tubing that I got from https://www.304stainlessexhaustparts.com/ for a de-cat section, which is still looking great (I will be using them more in the future!). Personally I wouldn't go stainless on a manifold - the system, fine, fair enough - but the manifold I'd keep mild steel for longevity (it fatigues less, as I understand it). Unless you just want it for the bling factor, or for concours type cars where it's more important for it to look good than last. I suppose if you're not talking a high miler, then it matters less.
  9. brumster

    Car love

    That's not right in the head, for sure... # edit: unless it was the 1.4, in which case, good move, should have be done as soon as it came out of the factory
  10. Looking at that, I *suspect* the bell shaped washed is to stop the mount pulling totally through (upwards) in the case of a crash or the rubber bush separating apart? As it doesn't seem to make contact with any rubber directly?
  11. I would go with the mindset you'll get some failures at your first IVA; think of it more as a snag list. People's experiences are vary variable over the years, you can get picky examiners and you can get easy-going ones. Plan for the worst; hope for the best If you go to IVA with a windscreen then it must have the appropriate sundries also fitted at the same time - a mechanism to clear it (wipers), wash it (washers) and demist it (heater/blower mechanism or heated screen), wipers must sweep a certain amount clear, must sweep a certain speed, etc. It must also pass all the usual safety requirements in terms of edges, glass markings, etc. A lot of people go to IVA with no screen, therefore meaning they don't have to make any effort around meeting those requirements. They get the car through the test, then fit them afterwards where they don't have to worry about using properly marked glass, or wiper blades/arms that meet requirements, or coverage, or speeds, etc. There is NO reason why you can't go to IVA with a windscreen and pass, though. You just have to meet the requirements in the IVA guide, that's all.
  12. It'll be a different bike - he's on about the engine from a Superblackbird, aka a CBR1100XX. Although maybe the management on a 929RR is the same, I don't know, but.... just sayin' I'd have suspected fuel first if it'd been standing around for ages how long is 'ages' ?
  13. You're saying a constant 5v but this doesn't come out of the lambda sensor itself, you're talking about your controller, right? So it could very much be the controller at fault rather than the sensor. A spare sensor isn't a bad thing to have. I had an Innovate LC-1 that died within what must have been 20-30 hours of total running time; electronics fault - the Bosch sensor itself was fine. So it's entirely possible, I guess.
  14. Lord knows we're all driving less !
  15. brumster


    <chuckle> this takes me back to being a kid, I had the same discussion with my dad. "What's nearside mean?" "It's the side of the car near the kerb" "Oh, so, the left?" "Yeah" "Unless you're in europe..." "Yeah" "So why not call it the left side?" "Errm, yeah"
  16. I scrapped an entire Exmo chassis and rear suspension from a Sierra and got about £50 for it. So you'll almost certainly get more for the parts. Then just weigh in the body. You just need to spend a bit of time on eBay and Car Builder Solutions looking at what prices things go for, for the things you've got. Radiator, steering rack, etc. Or else if you're just contemplating weighing it all in, just stick each of the items on eBay at 99p start or somesuch and see how it goes. Also consider listing it on locostbuilders.co.uk forum, donor parts tend to go pretty quickly on that (I've used it in the past)...
  17. I'd agree, I'd probably see more value in selling all the bits and plan on the fact you'll just throw away the body/chassis. The wings for example might be of value to someone building a kit/locost, and then things like the steering rack, radiator, lights, etc probably all have more value individually than you'll get as a job lot. You might be lucky and find that one person out there itching to build a lightweight but I think, if we're being openly honest about it, they are few and far between
  18. HELIflipper03, if you find a car where the V5 doesn't match what you're actually looking at, there are a few possibilities as to why. And let's be honet, the most likely reason, irrespective of what the seller tells you, is that they (or a previous owner) wanted to avoid the paperwork, effort, cost and red tape of going through an IVA but wanted to build a kit car. So they found an existing kit car, bought it, and used the identity for the one they built. Whether it's actually MADE from that car (ie. they stripped it and put the bits into a new chassis) or they just swapped number plates and chassis number, doesn't really matter. It's illegal. If you did it with a conventional car, you'd be in trouble for it, and it's only because some people don't question what a "Dutton" looks like that it's so rife (many non kit-car types will look at any unusual kit car and won't have a clue, so if you tell them it's a Dutton they'll probably believe you, whereas trying to make out a Volkswagen Beetle is a Ford Mondeo is a tougher sell). Does it mean the car is nicked? No, of course not. Does it mean the car is unsafe? No. Can you buy it and "make it right"? I'm not an expert but I believe you can, yes - but tread very carefully, seek the advice of wiser men, and know what you're getting into in terms of work and cost to put right. Maybe others with experience in doing that can comment. Assuming the ownership/source of the parts of the car aren't in question, I am guessing you effectively start afresh - start the IVA process anew, a 'clean' identity for the car. Almost certainly a Q-plate. And certainly not worth strong money on anything... 'seek significant financial compensation' as part of the deal, I would say
  19. He only said "I'd be tempted...". If you're going to jump down his throat at least read exactly what he wrote rather than misquoting him as saying "RINGERS are fine" which he, quite clearly, didn't?!
  20. Cool, ok. I wouldn't really choose a 2B as a trackday car then, if I had £5500 burning a hole in my pocket.... I'd probably go more for a Locost chassis with a more fruity engine. You'll have way more options in terms of chassis tuning, it'll weigh less. 2Bs are great for the road but for what you're after, I think that sort of money would be better spent on something a bit more track-focused...
  21. Is this purely a track day car? You're bit "hold it's own on track" has thrown me a bit, that can mean different things to different people
  22. They're in the IVA guide (table 1) but referenced as "position lamps"... 400mm max in from the side, max 1500mm high (or 2100 if impractical) and at least 250mm off the ground. And bear in mind the angles of visibility
  23. I may be showing my ignorance, but I thought the test checked the pattern and intensity of the light so why does anyone care whether the actual emitting source of light is a conventional filament bulb, a HID gas bulb or an LED? So, like said above, if the output of light conforms to the requirements in terms of spread, not blinding anyone, etc then I'm curious as to why it matters (assuming e-marked, etc, that's all fine)... presumably the MOT test doesn't check some critical aspect (genuinely curious)? edit: did a google https://blog.motoringassist.com/news/fit-led-lighting-car-legally/ Makes an interesting point that I've always felt that even new cars with LED lights seem to be harder on my eyes (as an oncoming driver) than the old ones but that's probably just me getting old!
  24. I would say you're going about things the wrong way. Make a shortlist of the types of kitcar you want first, then explore what suitable donors you can find. Buying a 'donor' car (Volvo or otherwise) and then trying to find a kit that will fit is just the wrong order. Do you know what style of kit car you're after? Open top, soft top, hard top? Sports/lotus 7 style ie. very much a fun/weekend car, or something more 'useable' with an enclosed body, roof, something more suited to long distance, etc etc?
  25. True, I suppose if you only had 100 miles range out of a tank then you'd get a bit fed up of stopping to fill up (even if it's out of a 5L jerry can type affair!)
  • Create New...