agent_zed

Mine was SVA as it was a while ago now but basically the same idea. I failed first time on a few bits. One thing was the rear suspension top mounting tubes (the bits that slide up into the roll bar on the 2b to hold the top of the suspension) had to have crush tubes in. I had to take it away (fit them) and photograph it for the re-test. Failed on a few 'sharp' edges as well but nothing particularly difficult to fix. Listen to the examiner and take note of everything they say, even ask how they would expect to see the problem resolved etc as you'll prob get the same one again and if they feel you listened to them you'll get a much easier time of it.

from memory I think people use 16inch open with a 400lb - 450lb spring.

bit of the old WD40 if you have to get it off without the correct tool, just to make sure it has the best chance of getting free without too much force

Been away from the forum for quite a while as haven't been doing much on my 2b. Getting back into it now and getting the old girl back up to spec. So happy to see the forum has gone back to the old way. I couldn't get used to the other version where every reply was in a list rather than by thread. Hope everyone is doing well

A couple of things to bear in mind. When this was designed it was SVA and it was a bit odd even back then. It's not as easy to work on the engine with the bonnet above you as far as i can tell and the firewall will never seal 100% from the engine bay. You would probably find an examiner is more used to a fixed scuttle and lift off bonnet. It's of course up to you but I'm another for chopping and doing a fixed scuttle. I did this on my own 2b. Not exactly spielberg quality but here is a vid i did showing my bonnet setup Robin Hood - project 2b scuttle mod - YouTube

something i planned on doing when i finally get around to putting mine on was adding a bracket from the bike carbs to the top of the rocker cover. You can clearly see on your pic the threaded hole that was originally used for the sierra air box on the rocker cover if i remember correctly, which can secure one end with the other onto one of the screws on the carb. Not sure if this is a good idea or not but i figure it should stop the carbs bouncing up and down only on the joining hoses. Again i haven't actually got it on yet but i bought some marine reinforced rubber hose that is fuel rated, so will see how well that secures them on. It's pretty thick though so not sure how well it will work. I also plan on tapping each runner and adding a small vacuum plenum underneith with a take off for manifold and advance which hopefully will stop any pulsing. hopefully will put this to the test in the near future. I also wonder why they don't use a better system to join them but i think as you mentioned it is probably down to cost as you'd have to get flanges made for each setup rather than simple pipe.

Yeah that's what i figured so i've just left it, been like it since 2007 so unlikely to change it anytime soon

thanks all. I'm still not sure. I've had a quick search for mx5 ones from the mk2.5 I think it is, but can't see any that are that good at the moment so will just hold out until i find some that i really want. Will still look at other tin top seats to see what will fit in the meantime as might come across something good, as said above i also prefer comfort over style in most cases. The sierra seats were great although not the best looking. You sank into them so held me pretty well with the four points. Want something a bit more sporty/stylish this time though.

I'm running a 1.6 with the coolman radiator and an electric fan in front of the rad. (no viscous fan) and never had a problem with cooling. What is suprising is that i removed the plastic cowling from the fan and made a frame that the fan sits in instead so it looks a bit like it floating but doesn't seem to have effected the cooling in any way. The only problem i get is that i put the thermo switch into the end of the thermostat housing so when i stop the residual heat from the engine sometimes turns it on. Never really caused an issue it just starts up as i walk away. I also have a heater matrix/fan for the demister (orginal matrix from the sierra) so if it did come to it i could run that as well to lose heat in an emergency but haven't ever come close so far.

Hi, I am assuming this is the bar that is affectionately called the 'plough bar' as it generally hits things due to it's proximity to the road. I think some people have removed it altogether and i think some have even made it removable, which can be useful for sump removal. If everything is that far out you might need some jigging to pull the chassis back inline depending on how it's bent and what it has pushed. Do you have a shortened sump? I'm assuming its a pinto engine. The bar doesn't need to be as low as it is with a shortened sump. i've been contemplating removing or repositioning mine for a while as it is 2 inches lower than it needs to be. I'm about 8miles from you so can always provide measurements if you need.

Hi, my sierra seats of 27years old have finally given up (don't make things to last do they ) and i've been looking at seat options. I could go the tried and tested mx5 route etc but those seats are perhaps a bit old now so was looking on ebay at various tintop seats and two that have caught my eye are the renault clio 2014+ and the aygo 2015+ seats I wonder if the clio seats are too wide that base though eg this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-MK4-FRONT-DRIVER-SEAT-CLOTH-2013-2014-2015-2016-2017-2018-Complete/264707573877?hash=item3da1cd0875:g:bKsAAOSwhMFen2hH or the aygo https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2015-TOYOTA-AYGO-MK2-VVT-I-X-PLAY-5Dr-Hatch-Front-Left-Passenger-Cloth-Seat-510/353089267057?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5235c2a571:g:otcAAOSwV3pezxxJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkWpEuxXwAiCNKyBQsQ5%2Fe6699RxaTmFPuAwZMKQ%2FhRZdj49m372SiI8TbDI3KWCCFZP9ZmxEcEqruuU5pQ7HG%2BxQMAgmZqrObrp633%2BsvOEtUnF8Ydcpi3YeOIwfqZpxH69NzhlCAHtRq6mxtOiEjvnesz%2FZBzcGG7bveKxt16VQsHLPyIQQuB5aT8pF%2BjtN1bLAIxmXcDyFk0quTPm2VMIHjwvD8h92xgg%2Fq3a9TjhpgnonWmRZlfbuQAhjWVjSdBqc1orSpdVh9ZZAfSbiqflQghPmyRN%2FHegb38CfYDbAc5%2By97Z0udwTQd7gubMz20q211LniY%2FX%2FHaJeYs4UFEGWsibtLy0WlZp79QYuhHieyhY6CavStdqz0c0wDhtPrc%2BfL%2FvyWHDhuD0hbyuITs9lO7pwQVpwu07%2BbmE2d9ZFfezFgKemDOc2rvAEKyMTyJC4LiqY7l0p2zlCowbHtOHykzjCANqwqdabDM%2FBMQnrz7AgdaXoASEL7oLxljdX0PPZCbiFaKqBtyiLBRtpbCBwtABRoECfhrWBSCGlFACel5Vp5IrI878HbkCn3aSAwmy1wjBVBBwI7hB94Ev0Jz2usQljo0aP8ox4YfGCfTnNFvLbNaoUy1INhN%2BPESzD8IDswqrxEsoXC%2B7jFyL4TYbHPB8P6FapnoLcZOlYyS%2BFr%2BGAw57DJosmMmYtPKSpjMbTfhAyjDzrByLqX4myfN8DXj%2BfZeFS55FPrtlE46CjbC%2B5rCSMcEFiGoF4CbspcLfZgmVF%2FGQqYoN0vtxGHQ%3D%3D|cksum%3A3530892670577a5ad3078ea4477d921d5e4d92ca5a63|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 I guess it would be best to remove any airbags from the seats? unless i want some kind of anti car jacking defence I assume it is safe enough to remove by myself. Does anyone have either car that could check the widths for me? it would be much appreciated.

As you say it's likely your new car has fly by wire so it's not got that mechanical feel. Also brakes on a new car are going to be running ABS so can be significantly sharper. Do you run a servo? I've got one on my 2b and it does make the brakes sharp but i have to be careful as doesn't take much to lock them. One of the things i've read (and hopefully not talking nonsense) is that the accelerator on RWD cars tends to be a longer movement. The reason being that an accidental slip of the throttle will potentially result in a spin. If you have a longer movement you reduce that risk. I've certainly kangaroo'd in my 2b a few times where i've gone over a bump hit the throttle - come off it - bounced back on and that's on the standard sierra box. As brumster says are all the bushes good, cables good? If you've used an old gearbox remember the bushes on the clutch fork will be worn and the release bearing is likely old unless you replaced them. All these things add up to a less smooth feel. You could try playing with spring rates to start with as that will effect the throttle pedal feel, and would be cheap to start with. eliminate any areas where the spring might catch or judder.

When i SVA'd my 2b i made a vin plate out of ally and stamped the numbers myself. The only problem was that there also needed to be a non-removeable vin stamped somewhere. That might have been dvla requiring that though as i remember getting my local garage to sign a paper stating it had been done. I stamped a piece of stainless and welded it to the floor pan.

many years ago when i first built my 2b i put 26-27psi in and it felt like i was on a bouncy castle. I run at about 20psi now on the rainsport 3's although haven't driven it in such a long time i couldnt tell you much at the moment. I did have cheap V treads when i got the alloys and they were rubbish compared to the rainsports. Once drove home in the rain on the V's and was so unstable on standing water. I don't drive particularly fast (1.6 pinto here too ) but with such light cars i want to be able to cut through any standing water without aquaplaning. I've been looking on blackcircles and mytyres recently for 14's for my GFs polo, they have a fair few. Just musing here but i wonder if an all season would fair well on a seven as the compound is likely to be softer and a larger contact patch. I guess the tread pattern probably doesn't work as well for cornering as they are separate blocks. https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=nhxnTDusaoulxsV2.110.826415530&Cookie=nl_rd_uk_na_2005a_cta&Breite=185&Quer=60&Felge=14&m_s=3&Ang_pro_Seite=10&weiter=10&sort_by=preis&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=C-C-70-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-371049

got age related plate back in 2007. Don't know how much has changed since then though. Was relatively easy although a bit nerve racking as they were checking over the car and asking which bits came from where etc. I thought they weren't going to give it me and was surprised when they said it was fine. Again things might have changed but this seems to be really variable over the years. I didn't get 3 years and had to Mot after first year. Others get 3 years?! I didn't do an mot before SVA either which triggers the system sometimes. Randomly some people have been given a brand new plate rather than age related, perhaps a trainee was doing the registering that day.

well i got it done (was also doing 3 knobs which took some time). I'm quite pleased with the results. Was a fun little project and learnt a few bits. Thanks for the heads up about using a mandrel. I cut a piece for it to sit on when i turned it around to do the final angle cut on the end. Gotta make another one for my other guitar now

cool, always happy to recieve advice on health and safety. I'd rather be aware of it. I've not really been given much of a guidance on the machines to be honest. I'm just careful about what i do as i know the machine is just looking for a reason to get me! A few things i do to minimise risk. I take small cuts, turn the chuck by hand before turning on to check nothing is going to bind, check where the tool is going to finish and that the holder etc isn't going to crash into the chuck, keep my hand on the lever for autofeed. I did use a bit of emery the other day but i have a block of rubber i use as a sanding block which is underneith it so if it got pulled it it would just slip out of my hand. You say it needs to held in a jig? how would this work for rounding corners etc. Is this one of those health and safety things that isn't actually practical in use?

oh also if you buy aftermarket alloys you may need spigot rings. Basically aftermarket wheels tend to have an oversized hole for the hub part and then you fit a spigot ring to fit your specific car. I can't remember off the top of my head the sierra ID but you just need to measure the round stickig out hub part and then the size hole in the alloy. You then buy 4 rings with the id of the car and od of the wheel. They just clip into the wheel to centralise them when fitting. I bought wheels with multifit which have 8 holes and 2 different PCDs. I had to use the smaller holes which require a special set of nuts called tuner nuts, which are thinner than standard wheel nuts as they have an internal star key to fit them.

as long as you have the correct PCD of 108 for ford (assuming you have 4 stud ford hubs) and the correct ET (or can adjust wings etc to cover the tyres) then there are loads of wheels you can choose depending on your style. The ET will determine how far out or in the wheel sits. I think there were 2 'standard' sizes, or at least there were 2 wing stays available on gbs. That being ET15 and ET38 . What do you have at the moment? The other thing will be wheel diameter. Again will come down to preference but 15 seems to be pretty common and good range of tyres in this size and pretty cheap as a lot of the hot hatches had these back in the day. Haven't tried myself but i've heard 16s can be a bit harsh on these cars. Caterhams run anything down to a 13, which will give you quicker acceleration (depending on the tyre sidewall ratio). Also don't go too wide on the tyres (195s are enough) as they don't need it and you increase risk of aquaplaning and tramlining.

according to the sierra haynes manual the black+blue (sw-bl) is coming from the fuse box then to the switch then out on the black(sw) which runs to the light cluster. easy enough to test if it's open/closed with a multimeter set to continuity. just put it in and out of reverse. I can take a pic of the diagram if that helps

thanks. yeah a vid i watched said not to ever put your hand over the chuck and also not to have a sharp tang on the file (put a handle or something on it) in case it catches and comes back at you. Being a newbie I'm being over caution and taking my time which means my guitar parts which you could probably knock out in <30mins are taking me hours and hours

I might be talking nonsense but i recall something about using different oil for gearbox and diff. I think hypoid is ok in diff but not in gearbox as it eats the copper on the syncros or something like that. hopefully someone will be able to clarify if i have the right end of the stick and if not at least its more of a reason to check the manual for the actual specs just in case I hate the smell of diff oil!

cool thanks for that makes sense. I'm just going to have a round hole instead of the rectangular one as it'll be so much easier. because everything is metal i can just put a dob of glue stick on the end of the switch and heat everything with a soldering iron to get it on and off. (hopefully) really useful to learn about mandrels as didn't know that before. Think that will come in useful. Also wasn't really sure it using files etc was the done thing but watched a few videos last night so will give it a go. fingers crossed thanks

Hi, not car related but been using a lathe over lunch in the school i work in (nice and quiet at the moment) and been making parts for my guitar i've built - 3 control knobs and 1 toggle switch. my question is how to turn the toggle switch. I was going to make it relatively standard shape but without the curves as i'm not a great machinist. It will be similar shape to this I'll have to do a round hole in the bottom so i was thinking i'd bore the hole first and then cut the angles. The trouble is when i cut it off it will leave a flat and i want it tapered at a slight angle. If i then turn it around to turn that face then the long tapered edges will be hard to hold in the chuck without it sliding out or damaging the aluminium. The only other thought was to drill the hole smaller than i need and tap it to put a small stud to use to hole it in the chuck. How would a professional do this? thanks Oh and car related i put the steering boss in the lathe and took off the flaking paint back to ally. Just finishing a few bits it missed as it isn't perfectly round and debating whether to polish it up and leave it ally

Is there a reason for wanting GRP? I know there is the potential for more shaped sides etc but if you are just flat panelling then metal is in many ways better. I'm not sure how much they have improved the flame retardation of modern grp but it can burn with sufficient heat input. Penetration from impacts is likely to be less with metal also. So for safety i'd go will metal. If you watch any of the american car shows they are the opposite and want 'steel bodies' on their hotrods and consider GRP to be undesirable. We brits seem to like it though and to be honest i would quite like a full grp shell for mine but for the above reasons i'm sticking with metal.