Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Welding Stainless Steel


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 AndyW

AndyW

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 171 posts
  • Location:Bedford
  • Car type:Robin Hood Super Spec, Rover 2L DOHC

Posted 11 November 2017 - 11:08 AM

I've discovered that the front engine mounting plate on my Superspec chassis has a large crack. It's a large 3mm stainless steel triangular plate welded onto the front stainless chassis tube.  The crack needs welding closed and I'd like to get a reinforcing plate welded on top, as it looks like a repair has been attempted before by previous owner that's now failed.

 

I've asked at a few local places that do body and car repairs and light engineering, but no-one is interested. They say they don't/won't/can't weld stainless steel.

 

So what sort of place should I be looking for that is willing and able to weld stainless steel?  Anyone know anywhere in the Bedfordshire area?  I'd prefer a mobile service as I think I'm going to have to remove the radiator for access which makes driving anywhere difficult.

 

Andy

 

 

Attached Files


RH Super Spec, Rover 2L DOHC, yellow grp, built & registered 2009, 2nd owner

 


#2 brumster

brumster

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 1,011 posts
  • Location:Brum (duh)
  • Car type:Zero

Posted 11 November 2017 - 11:27 AM

Welds exactly the same as mild steel, but with a different wire (and maybe different gas, not sure)... so quite why everyone is telling you that I don't know. Probably they just can't be bothered with a job that might come back on them if it fails again. I'll let the IWP (Internet Weld Police) comment on the quality of that previous repair!



#3 DanE

DanE

    Electrickery master

  • RHOCaR 17
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,453 posts
  • Location:England
  • Car type:SSC Stylus Supercharged

Posted 11 November 2017 - 11:35 AM

Ideally you need it tig welding, which most body shops garages won't do or have the kit. I have mig welded stainless before with the right wire and gas but tig is better

Ssc stylus with a supercharged zetec 242bhp and 253ft lb of wheel spin.

 

 


#4 richyb66

richyb66

    Wheely good builder!

  • Area Secretary
  • 1,818 posts
  • Location:Tamworth / Pwllheli
  • Car type:2B wishbone 4.6 V8

Posted 11 November 2017 - 12:06 PM

Kev Booth is probably the man to speak to for welding advice, drop him a pm.
Warks, Worcs, W Mids area meet. Last Wednesday of the month 7PM onwards, January to November. Malt Shovel Pub, Coventry Road, Nr Stonebridge, Coventry, CV7 7HL

https://maps.google....ingdom&t=m&z=15

Entrance to pub car park is off the A452 Chester Road heading North 50 yards from the island.

#5 Dave R

Dave R

    Wheely good builder!

  • Moderator
  • 2,300 posts
  • Location:northants
  • Car type:2b passed sva may 05.pillars removed june 10. duratec power june 2012

Posted 11 November 2017 - 01:29 PM

what he said /\



#6 wanderer

wanderer

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 165 posts
  • Location:fleetwood lancashire
  • Car type:2B, titanium super spec

Posted 11 November 2017 - 02:19 PM

Hi Andy just sent you email photo of mine you thought yours was bad told Alan about this problem i had to jack car up to close the gap and made another bracket fitted over top of original and welded 



#7 florin metal works

florin metal works

    Hants & Dorset Area Secretary

  • Committee
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,028 posts
  • Location:Salisbury
  • Car type:2B+

Posted 11 November 2017 - 02:21 PM

That "weld" is just material laid on top of the crack, doing no good at all.  Have welded s/steel on Florin ( diff mounting ) & so far so good as not a trained welder.  If you have mig equipment have a go --- s/steel wire & argon gas does the job.  May not end up pretty but if you get more penetration than the last guy it will be a whole lot better, an extra piece of stainless welded over the top would make it belt & braces.  

 

Have loads of s/steel off-cuts in stock, shout if required.



#8 tractor

tractor

    tinckeritus

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 4,150 posts
  • Location:leicester
  • Car type:zero st170 on megasquirt ms3x

Posted 11 November 2017 - 03:25 PM

I welder my stainless exhaust together with a Alans Clark 160 mig welder with argon gas and stainless wire it nether came apart

#9 kevin booth

kevin booth

    Wheely good builder!

  • Community user
  • 196 posts
  • Location:kettering
  • Car type:320 BHP LOCOST TURBO

Posted 11 November 2017 - 03:28 PM

Cut the old plate off and replace with new steel. Each time you weld stainless you cause the other side of metal to oxidise, this is why it should be back purged.  This is why the repair has failed



#10 AndyW

AndyW

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 171 posts
  • Location:Bedford
  • Car type:Robin Hood Super Spec, Rover 2L DOHC

Posted 11 November 2017 - 03:29 PM

Hi Andy just sent you email photo of mine you thought yours was bad told Alan about this problem i had to jack car up to close the gap and made another bracket fitted over top of original and welded 


Hi Ivan. Got your photo thanks. Interesting that your bracket split on the vertical part of the plate below the cross tube, whereas mine is going on the horizontal bit before it wraps round the tube. The plate is obviously not strong enough to take the loads, or else the two horizontal and vertical mounting bolts on the engine mount are not well aligned and put the bracket under strain. My bracket has been bent to fit. Did you make your extra bracket out of stainless?

RH Super Spec, Rover 2L DOHC, yellow grp, built & registered 2009, 2nd owner

 


#11 AndyW

AndyW

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 171 posts
  • Location:Bedford
  • Car type:Robin Hood Super Spec, Rover 2L DOHC

Posted 11 November 2017 - 03:37 PM

If you have mig equipment have a go --- s/steel wire & argon gas does the job.


Bob unfortunately I cant weld and have no equipment, so doing it myself is out the question. I need someone with the skill and equipment to do it for me.

Edited by AndyW, 11 November 2017 - 03:41 PM.

RH Super Spec, Rover 2L DOHC, yellow grp, built & registered 2009, 2nd owner

 


#12 AndyW

AndyW

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 171 posts
  • Location:Bedford
  • Car type:Robin Hood Super Spec, Rover 2L DOHC

Posted 11 November 2017 - 04:04 PM

Cut the old plate off and replace with new steel. Each time you weld stainless you cause the other side of metal to oxidise, this is why it should be back purged.  This is why the repair has failed


Hi Kev, yes it does look bodged even to my inexpert eye and not surprising it failed. Im quite willing to cut the old L shaped bracket off completely, and I could get some stainless to make a new one, but I will still need someone to weld it on for me.

Edited by AndyW, 11 November 2017 - 04:05 PM.

RH Super Spec, Rover 2L DOHC, yellow grp, built & registered 2009, 2nd owner

 


#13 wanderer

wanderer

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 165 posts
  • Location:fleetwood lancashire
  • Car type:2B, titanium super spec

Posted 11 November 2017 - 05:09 PM

cant remember what material i used but same thickness of original and just about 1.5 inch wide bent and drilled to match the two fixing points done about 700 mile and still holding up but at least i now know where to keep an eye on it. as per photo you can see how bad mine was and i dont know how long it had been like that as ionly found out when i removed the radiator



#14 cb750

cb750

    Wheely good builder!

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 1,149 posts
  • Location:Aldridge, West Midlands
  • Car type:3A

Posted 11 November 2017 - 06:02 PM

I found a chap who did stainless weld repairs on excavators but also had small enough gear to weld repair my monocoque 3A. He was the only person locally who was interested in the work so if you've got someone like that near you they may help out. I had to fabricate the reinforcing plates and he came round to the house to do the job.

#15 Pintogogo

Pintogogo

    Getting there Builder

  • RHOCaR 17
  • 90 posts
  • Location:Sunderland, Tyne & Wear
  • Car type:Robin Hood S7 2.0L

Posted 11 November 2017 - 07:48 PM

Stainless steel can be welded either by TIG or MIG if using MIG (more common) you need to use stainless steel wire not copper coated mild steel and use either Argon or Argoshield (Argon/CO2 mix) gas. I welded lots of stainless on my Stainless S7 Monocoque body


Edited by Pintogogo, 11 November 2017 - 07:49 PM.