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Some club members are camping over at the showground tonight so they'll be there tomorrow.

Right I'm at my witts end now, don't suppose anyone has a diagram for this type of stalk, I'm 99%sure I have it correct but I can't get the indicators to work, so I have Pin L4 (power to stalk) Pin L6 (earth) Pin L3 and L2 (main beam low beam) Pin L1 (side lights) Pin L11 should be right indicator Pin L5 should be left indicator or vice versa, There's no part numbers on the stalks but I've worked out that it's from either a mk5 escort or fiesta I think, but can't seem to find the pinouts listed anywhere

Are there many people going Sunday

Ready to go.

LEDs for cars use 12V. Polatity can be an issue.

Yes A45/A452 junction.

Is that the toby carvery off chester Road

I sometimes feel this sub-forum is pointless for kits - most kits have a completely unique electrical system and it's almost impossible to help remotely. My wiring loom is half of the GBS system and half my own design - no-one is going to work it out Having said that, a halogen and LED in the same unit? Don't LEDs use a lower voltage, so they should be on separate circuits? Also, LEDs are polarity sensitive- maybe 12v in the wrong polarity is keeping the LEDs on and preventing the halogen coming on? Dunno, I would get a multimeter on the wires and see what voltages you're getting...

So update for today, I officially thought I had all headlights, Brake lights etc done, ticked off the list, finished, every single light circuit is on a relay, only sidelights are leds and they will be controlled by a switch on the dash once it's all done, car now starts from the key instead of the big red start button, great I'll pack the crimp tool and connectors away and move onto fitting the new carpet, but before I do that I'll get the misses to just stand at the back of the car and double check lights, so rear lights come on with high beam, low beam, sidelights, great all good. Let me just double check the rear lights stay on if I switch my high beam onto constant full (stalk pused forward with lights on) front works perfect but the rear lights go out, but they don't go out if I pull the lever as if I was flashing to signal someone, racking my brains I could not find a solution, I tried running 2 separate cables from the rear, 1 for high beam 1 for low beam, but then because I had affectively created one big circuit I had high beam, low beam, rear lights all on and the flasher didn't work, so back to the drawing board, going to try a holdover relay setup in the morning

Fuse box would be my next check. A lot of cars have 4 fuses for the headlights Left Main, Left Dip, Right Main & Right Dip. If you do not know which fuse systematicaly remove one at a time to check if blown put good fuse back and check the next one.

Cheers Richy I'll take another look tomorrow if I haven't set fire to the thing before hand, I have tried unscrewing it previously but it feels like I'm going to snap the lever, but for the minute the wiring is slowly killing me

Originally they're screwed on. Aftermarket knobs might also have glue or hidden grub screws.

At the minute I am not committing anything at minute. As I hate to disappoint anyone/Club or just don't show up etc. Sucks having busy life and little 4yr old too lol. I am going to Newark Kit Car Motor Show on the Sunday 22nd September I cannot do Saturday 21st due my daughters and my birthday on 19th Sep so we will doing something Saturday 21st Sep with family. But I told misses I am going out Sunday regardless though lol. Hoping to hit a few other shows I based near Leeds so no doubt ill be out and about soon.

Hi Jon, welcome to the club. You can contact Alan by message on here and have a "chat" about things. Either go to the Staff tab at the top of the screen, scroll down until you find Alantoon and click the message tab, or you can click on the messages envelope at the top and enter Alantoon in the "to" box. Hope this helps, Steve

Not sure if this is allowed, I don't think it was years ago as the club wanted all adverts in the same place, so please somebody edit the link out if not allowed, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/353810727308470 is a 1991 unregistered car that has engine, box etc. you should be able to compare what you are getting with one & not with the other & decide if they are worth the £800, if they are not then your £700 is a good price, if they are worth more than £800 then it's not so good. Just to be clear I have no connection with either seller, I just happen to stumble across the one on FB & thought it worth offering another option, it also could depend where the OP lives.

Hi all need some help again and it involves my worst topic those wires ! I have recently purchased a GBS zero 2017 build and a Mazda MX5 base it has halogen headlights and LED side lights in the same unit, side lights are on all the time and only one headlight works I have changed the bulb to no avail can anyone tell me where to look next and if sidelights perm on is normal and indicative of a fault ?

Actually, you just need to keep an eye out for any runs, which are normally advertised on here in the 'Events' sub-forum. Some area secs may have started a WhatsApp group or will email but I think most just use forum posts.

Looking good - you should get yourself to the Malvern kit car show this weekend, that would be a fun run.

Aaahhhh, that makes sense, phew Mine is mounted outside the chassis (Zero) - if yours could be mounted outside the chassis, it could probably go the right way round. But I can understand why it works, shouldn't make any difference if it's rotated or not (the top input is still at a high point of the rad for airlock prevention). You definitely don't want the fan sucking air out as it would be competing with the normal airflow - you want to add to the existing airflow, not fight it. I've never heard of anyone doing that on purpose - when I first wired mine up, it was going the wrong way (50/50 guess on the fan wiring and I got the wrong one).

Hi guys, had a quick search on the forum but couldn't seem to find anything so thought I'd ask, how do I remove the gear knob on the type 9 box? I've tried twisting, pulling, looking for screws and can't seem to get it of, at the moment it has a massive silver bullet type knob but I've bought a smaller one to go on

Jon, I think that you need to 'follow' key people like your local area organiser and also sign up for notifications.

Thanks mate, yeah that's the plan for today I think, the car starts and runs absolutely fine now but didn't have my multi meter with me yesterday so couldn't check the battery voltage whilst running,

I have no idea why it's mounted like this, previous owner did it, I was considering buying a new rad and mounting it the correct way but upon further inspection this rad has a bit more surface area than the one at cbs so maybe that's why it's mounted like this,

That sounds like the thicker of the wire fed things that need a permanent live, like your lights, hazards etc, which really ought to be a fused feed. You could disconnect that wire, (after disconnecting the battery), then re-connect the battery & see what doesn't work.