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Another Exmo 🥱


LewisH
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4 hours ago, nelmo said:

How have you checked the toe-in? You can't do it by eye. I thought mine was straight, had someone on here with a home laser kit check it and it was miles out - far too much toe-in. Corrected it and got loads of self-centering... 

I seem to remember doing this by counting out number of turns on the track rods from a Robin Hood video. Both front wheels are visibly pointing in so could well be far too much toe in. 

I am going to set up some sort of  string alignment tool and try to get a parrallel base setting. Pics below of what I mean.

Fingers crossed this sorts it!!

DIY-alignment-19.jpg

DIY-alignment-18.jpg

Edited by LewisH
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If they're visibly pointing in then they are MILES out! I'm not sure if I'd trust that string technique either.

My local ATS does a laser wheel alignment for £50 - I'd see if they could do a kit (can't see why not - easy access to the tie rods) and get it done there. 

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Mine was £40 😀  Money well spent though as I won’t have to buy 2 new tyres in the near future.  Had to take mudguards off though, as he couldn’t get his kit to go in above the wheels.  Should also point out that Halfords refused to do it.  Computer wouldn’t accept Robin Hood as a manufacturer and he wasn’t able to manually override it.

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I have been Googling this, always a dangerous thing. However I have watched several tubes on performing alignment using the "string method".  I think the best of them, is seen on the link below. The presenter is very methodical in explaining the process I think he says it is what his car racing team use on a regular basis for setting up the track cars. He focuses on the importance of forming a perfect rectangle symetrically around the car, however I think the important point is that you set up parallel straight lines on either side with the wheel centers of each axle equidistant from the line. He also explains the relationship between Toe In using degrees and distances. I will be trying this method first to see if it works, but I don't have a rolling chassis at the moment, so am interested if LewisH tries this first.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxnK1XE6ZAA

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Good video, well worth viewing.  Just be aware he uses the term ‘tie rod’ whereas we us the term ‘track rod’.

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7 hours ago, Sparepart said:

I have been Googling this, always a dangerous thing. However I have watched several tubes on performing alignment using the "string method".  I think the best of them, is seen on the link below. The presenter is very methodical in explaining the process I think he says it is what his car racing team use on a regular basis for setting up the track cars. He focuses on the importance of forming a perfect rectangle symetrically around the car, however I think the important point is that you set up parallel straight lines on either side with the wheel centers of each axle equidistant from the line. He also explains the relationship between Toe In using degrees and distances. I will be trying this method first to see if it works, but I don't have a rolling chassis at the moment, so am interested if LewisH tries this first.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxnK1XE6ZAA

Cool, thanks for that mate. Got the in-laws down for a couple of days so I'll try this at the weekend and let you know. 

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  • 4 months later...
On 3/7/2021 at 5:40 PM, LewisH said:

Instrument cluster.

Not fixed in position yet, wiring still to sort.

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Really good job you’ve made of the dashboard, give me a few ideas of what to do with mine, I hope my diy job turns out that well 👍

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  • 1 month later...

Retest booked for December...bit of a delay whilst the bathroom got finished. I have done all of the items, but I'm struggling to find a solution to the rear wheel arches not covering the wheels.

Pic attached, does anyone have an idea for this that doesn't involve making holes in the arches? I had considered using narrow wheels for the test but don't particularly want to spend a fortune just for one use.

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I always get confused with offset but Sierra wheels are usually ET38, I suspect your car has been fitted with 18s so the front tyres have plenty of clearance from the suspension buttress. So if you fit 38s on the rear it should I think, move the wheels in 20mm. Check if there enough clearance inboard so there is no interference with the shocker/spring whatever the rear arrangement is. If you were nearer I could lend a set of wheels to try.

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Unfortunately some of the tyre can be seen when looking down from above, so sadly the examiner is correct, albeit 5mm at most. Very frustrating. 

I am going to have to look for some similar sized wheels with a smaller offset. 

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