Sparepart

Here are a series of snaps, that shows the path I followed. As you have found the brackets are thick and hard to bend. So I started by making copies in thin mild steel, from the sides of an old desktop PC case. I practised the shaping process with these so that they fitted nicely. Then using one of those curve guages, with the sliding prongs, like a comb, I copied the curve of the scuttle at the centre of the brackets. Then with a jig saw I cut out several curves in dense plywood and bolted them together to make a solid former that I could use to help shape the curve. I then used this with clamps and a heavy hammer to make the curve, all the time comparing with the thin version and offering it up to the car, back and fore, bang bang bang, unclamp, compare shape, hold against scuttle, bang bang bang, same again, etc. etc. Happy with the curve I then made the bend for the upright bit. For this I made a clamp out of angle iron because my small vice was not strong enough (Cheap cast iron liable to crack) Then finally the upright must be twisted so that the flat surface mates with the windscreen frame edge. The pictures which show this happening are below.

The TWO bends that are made in these flat brackets are nearer the top of the trangle, so if there is any angle change between the leading edge and the base it is quite small. It is a pity that you have flattened the old brackets, as you could have used these to compare the bends that you will make in the new ones. I have recently had to do this on an Exmo, where in the virgin scuttle there are no pre-drilled mounting holes. Advice above about the distance from screen top means that you would need to mount the screen to check, which is going to be cumbersome unless you have a second pair of helping hands. In the end I cut out a piece of cheap low density plywood (about 15mm) in the shape of the framed screen and screwed in some triangular wedge pieces so that it would stand at the correct angle for the brackets, on the scuttle top. It only took an hour. This then was put in the desired position and as i made the TWO bends in each. Notice TWO bends, the one that follows the curve in the scuttle is made by hammering gradually forming a shape with regular checks aginst the scuttle. The second is made by twisting the support coumn in a vice. It's all on the build video (at least for the Exmo) and you have to be patient and not try to do all the bending at once.

S7 builders will soon answer your question I am sure. In the meantime, on the Exmo where the lamp is into an almost box section, there is access from directly below. If you also have access from below the you can use a "basin wrench".

I have a digital copy (pdf) of the Haynes manual. I am wary about distributing it to anyone because of copyright laws. However, I have tracked down an enthusiast's site in Finland, where the Sierra was sold as a Taunus (I think).... anyway below is a link to two pdf files on the web site, both in English, one is the Sierra Service and repair manual and the other the type 9 gearbox manual. I just tried them a moment ago, they work for me. Hope this helps. https://musse67.mbnet.fi/Taunus/Korjausoppaat

Looking at the contents list in the kit these white bits are "Rear main cap chocks" I use this as a Google search and among the hits I see two useful images:-

Kieran, I think that you might be slightly hi-jacking this thread although I am no afficianado of the protocols here. It might be better to start a seperate thread for this discussion. Have you made use of the search facilities here ? I did just now, I made a search for three words and selected the search option to have ALL words present the words were Exmo front strut. The search turned up 32 hits, and one of them seems to discuss your question in some detail. https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/27038-exmo-suspension/page/3/&tab=comments#comment-323081 Good luck, I am part way through a similar exercise, although my front shocks are still ok, I am keen to hear how you get on in case I need replacements in future. Oh yes there is also the problem with the strut top mounts at the front breaking through the SS ... more fun.

P.S. I just measured the resistance across the unit, between the two black leads and its Zero, and between either black lead and the mounting bracket its infinite. So it is not a ballast resistor. The 73 ohms must be in series with the condensor, so I might add a resistor in the repacement. P.P.S. There is one on sale on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sierra-RS-Cosworth-ignition-coil-resistor/224393688484?epid=28003500454&hash=item343ee7f5a4:g:bscAAOSwAQJgPUJc OR. I think that this new BOSCH part should do but will need a small mod to the connector to wire it in. https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/bosch-7428717.html

I have the same potential challenge, the leads to/from the coil supressor are in a bad state. I have done a bit of research on this subject. There are two conflated things in some of the previous posts here. The two things are (1) a Ballast Resistor and (2) a Supressor. There is a nice piece of explanation on the Burton site that covers (1). https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ignition-systems.html Reading this I do not believe the unit in your picture is a Ballast Resistor because the ignition on my Sierra is ESCII, i.e has no points. In any case this can be verified by measuring the voltage at the feed (positive input) of the coil, as explained by Burton. This then leaves the option (2) it's most probably a suppressor. What's that? I here you ask. Notice the markings on the unit, it has a marking for capacitance in Micro Farads (2.2 I believe and a resistance of 73 ohms). When the coil is producing high voltage ignition sparks some of the high voltage can get generated in the coil input circuit. Normally this should only be 12 volts. So the capacitator absorbs sudden spikes in voltage and effectively shorts them to earth without affecting the steady 12 volts in the lead. This protects any voltage sensitive devices connected elswhere on the loom, like the ESCII unit, the Rev Counter, a radio perhaps, etc etc. My intention is to verify that I do not have a ballast system and then replace the unit with an automative capacitator (frequently called a "Condensor") of 2.2 micro farads. This will be connected to the chassis by its case and be wired to the input terminal(+) of the coil. Sorry to bore you with this, I was sort of thinking it through as I typed.

Might be useful to know when it last run ok, was it idle for a while and now won't start or was it running fine yesterday ?

Do you mean the Ice Warning Sender? If so then I dont have it connected. In fact I have removed all the wiring that is related solely to the Graphic Display and Trip Computer. On my loom there are two temperature sensors, one is bolted into the engine block for the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster, the other is on the inlet manifold and is for the temp inputs to the ECU.

Why is the headrest at an angle ? do you drive with your head slanting ? or perhaps so tall that you twist your head to the left to keep out of the wind?

I agree, crude but functional, I should have said. I forgot about the plastic sleeves, they are in the small pile stuff I removed when I dissasembled the mechanism, phew!.

I have a fuel sender on the table in front of me. The Ohms between the pins (numbered as above) and the earth post are as follows:- Pin1 float at top (full) = 21 Pin1 float at bottom (empty) = 176 Pin2 top = 200 Pin2 bottom = 67 Pin3 top = 183 Pin 3 bottom = 183 These "top" and "bottom" positions are with the float moved by hand and obviously out of the tank, and without the plug from the loom connected. Also the sender is an old one from the 1986 donor so the rheostat will have worn somewhat, never the less the values match niduncan's, more or less.

Thanks, yes the BMC wipers are very different and probably a better setup both for fitting and weather proofing, however like they say on Mastermaind "I have started so I will finish" with the Sierra wipers. The pictures just above are great. I notice that there is only just enough of the spindle shaft protruding. With the arm installed, the leading edge of the nut cover dips a tiny bit under the scuttle. Weather seal is very simple (although, forgive me for this) a bit crude, I assume the Sikaflex was allowed to cure and then when the wipers were next turned on the spindles broke free. OR - did you coat the spindles with grease before putting in the Sikaflex ? so that it never adhered to them and formed a nice neat fit. I also notice that the arms are parked nicely.

Hey! thank you all for so many suggestions, the video link is for a 2B? not an Exmo, I have the video for the Exmo, it covers all the same stuff about windscreen construction and modifying the Sierra wipers etc, but sadly nothing about mounting under the scuttle, the kit should have come with a tube of "Deep Heat" to aleviate the back pain. I like the suggestion of taking even more material from the top edge of the brackets, I was afraid to cut into the alloy of the spindle mounts (the big round bits on the mushroom shaped part in the photo) however I do now have a spare modified motor and arms (Thanks to a freebie from G. Cash). Indeed doing that would mean being able to increase the angle of the spindles while moving the motor forward slightly ...... yes that might give the few millimetres need. I will try that. As far of the rest of it is concerned I have found that Landrover Defender arms look like they are going to fit on the spindles, and cut down blades. I have not permanently fixed the overlaps in the wiper mechanism because these will need to be adjusted to get the sweep of the blades correct. So thank you all for the suggestions, I now have a more positive outlook about this part of the construction.

Not sure what gearboxes you are referring to. I have a motor with a crank and attached rods that drive the spindles See picture below. You can see that I have even cut down the area around the spindle bracket and that it is butting hard against the under surface of the scuttle. I am no spring chicken, and bending over to work in this area is killing my back. I envy the owners of models where the scuttle is not fixed like the Exmo, groan groan moan.

I am fitting a windscreen, wipers, demister, washer etc to an Exmo for the first time, having left them out previously to avoid test issues. I have modified the Sierra wipers as described in the build video. I have constructed bracketry on the firewall to mount the wiper mechanism in a position that gives the most possible penetration of the spindles through the scuttle. The mounting does not require any support from the scuttle itself. The spindles are protruding through the plasma cut orifices made by RHE. I attach a photo of one of these with a nut attached. As it stands, there is not enough clearance to attach a wiper arm. I have therefore a dilemma. I have invested a lot of time in this so would like to get it to work, rather than binning it and starting again with BMC type wipers. I could enlarge the hole to fit the arm, but the arm needs to move back and fore so I could end up with a big hole. Another option would be to extend the spindle with a threaded collar and lock it with cross drilled pin, but the spindle is brass, would this weaken it too much?. AND there is the challenge of weather sealing ....... So has anyone out there managed to dig themselves out of a similar hole ?

Old chestnut: Lady asks a Scotsman, "What's worn underneath your Kilt?" He replies "Nothing madam, it's all in perfect working order!"

Dave, I have PM'd you with an offer.

Dave, I am interested in this. some questions. How do I/you know it is unleaded ? What's the history ? i.e. Was it on an engine that you scrapped or something ? Was it working ok before it was removed ? I live too far away, given current restrictions, however I have a sister living in Shrivenham, would you consider delivery to her for a modest recompense. ?

I am fortunate to have a copy of the Haynes FORD SIERRA Service and Repair Manual 1982 to 1993 4cyl Petrol. The wiring diagrams are not easy to use as all the major components have numbers on the diagrams, so you have to go back and for between several pages in order to see whats what. On page 13-54 (Diagram 1) the "Speed sensor" item number 150 shows a yellow/brown wire going to Diagram 4a (square H8). If I turn to Diagram 4a, I see this yellow/brown wire going to pin 4 of item 58 (which turns out to be EEC IV Module) .... So in answer to your question, it appears that the speed sensor input is required by the EEC. I do not have this engine or EEC (I have SOHC carb) however on mine the speed sensor is a detachable part of the speedo cable which is driven from a mechanical output on the Type 9 gearbox. It was also used by the "Fuel Computer" on up market versions of the Sierra equiped with a Graphical Display.

Yes, thats about right. I have extracted the instructions from the build video for you to see what was the "offical" way to do this. There are two clips, one short and another longer (parts 1 and 2 resp ), this is because they spanned two of the tapes that I had. The quality is poor, but turn up the sound and have a look. You will see that you do not appear to have big enough stone guards to form a lip to bolt the bottom of the wing to the tub..... so you will need to get hold of original sized ones somehow ? ... anyway here is a link to the two clips on my cloud space. Have a look.... you might decide not to go ahead with this after you see what the designer does. https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/invite/n5IgsfjkFB You notice he refers to (but does not show) a rightangled piece of steel that fits inside the wing at the join with the tub, and says to drill four holes to bolt it on etc. This is what I have done, using countersunk small ss bolts, the heads of which are then covered by the stone guard when that is fitted. So you too could do that, as your guard looks big enough to cover holes near the join with the tub. As for cutting the glass, well I just have Gel coat, no paint, and used a piece of fine hacksaw blade fitted with a handle. You can just wrap a load of masking tape around one end of a blade to get the same sort of thing. It worked well, as long as you don't try an "force" the blade to cut too much on each stroke, just be patient and work gradually with gentle pressure on the blade. I did NOT fit the dummy piping. Personally I think it looks naff, and anyway that bit about pop riveting the ends to the body looks dodgy, I guess you should pull them out after?

For the same reasons, mine is mounted in the engine bay, vertically just opposite the distributor. I have an EXMO so a photo is of little use to you. I have a snap of the donor engine bay (below), you can see the ESC2 mounted on the inner wing, bottom right.

This one of many challenging parts of the Exmo build. It is covered on the VHS build tapes, I assume you have not viewed this otherwise you would be trembling even more about your paintwork. When I did my original build I cocked this up big time. Essentailly your red line is on the right lines, except the vertical line needs to be even further back so that you can eat into the area at the bottom front of the wing where it meets the side of the tub. You will have noticed that the body sort of bulges out a bit at the bottom so that it covers the end of the subframe (just). On the video, Tricky Dicky slowly hacks away at the fiberglass until he gets two things right. Firstly the right angle at the top, where the short red line is on your picture should fit on to the right angle of the top edge of the tub, where your elbow would rest. Secondly ... if you try to do this, then the buldge at the tub bottom stops you moving the right angle over to attach it, so you remove a strip from the bottom edge of the fibreglass up wards in a narrowing way, the strip cut out is wide at the bottom and gets narrow as it goes up, like a long thin pointed triangle. If you get it right then when the right angle fits snugly the edge of the fibreglass along the wing edge meets the tub edge neatly with a small gap. You now realise that there is no angled bit left on the wing to attach to the side of the tub. This is where the stone guard comes into play. The original supplied guards have a rightangle bent into the edge that goes next to the tub. (it looks like this has been cut off in your picture). When the stoneguard is riveted onto the wing this edge goes right up to the tub and is bolted to the tub, this is invisible from outside the wheel arch. Now I am going to attach some photos from my build, these might show what's done on the build video, except that what you see in my case is my recent attempts to fix the mess that I made originally. What happened when I tried this was that I took too much material from the wing, This was because I had not properly secured the rear if the wing when I started removing material, the rear had moved out a bit, like on end of a see saw, so by the time I noticed and pushed it back in, the gap I had made was huge. Then not to be beaten I tried to close the gap using clamps to pull the front edge of the wing in ..... Bang! ... I cracked the top rear of the wing ... it was not able to take the twisting. If you want I could try and extract the bit from the build video and put a digital copy on my cloud share .... since this takes a while ... I'll do it readily but only if you think you would like to take a look.

Have you seen the information at the link below ? It list the Engine code for the variants, the code should be stamped on the engine block. https://toyne.org.uk/zetec-engine.html