Peter Bell

Don’t get too fixated on R1 carbs though they seem to fetch the most money, there are plenty of other suitable bikes available. I have R1s on a Boggs manifold made years ago all still fine.

I assume the cover is touching the roof, can you make up a simple frame to space it off? I do that on a dinghy made a structure with 15mm plastic water pipe and connectors.

Its a Mk1 S7, mine was trimmed liked this 20 odd years ago and needs redoing but may give you an idea. Its a thin foamed backed vinyl held down by a steel strip fixed to the top of the chassis, the material is then just wrapped over and glued to the top section. It has a length of tadpole trim between the vinyl and body. It may give you some idea.

Mines just like that, there is also an earth connection to the case, has worked most times for the last 23 years in the car. No idea how old it really is.

Agree with Andy if it’s in the bottom of the rad then it won’t switch on until the water coming out of the rad reaches 90, may be a bit late? Perhaps a lower temp one may be better.

They do look like that! thanks If they are of use to anyone let me know.

Al, I have a new pair of bottom ball joints with a thread of around 38mm, are these Superspec ones?

Sorry to be a pedant but the Capri was a live axle and the Sierra trailing arms so can you put a capri diff into a Sierra housing?

Has it got a live rear axle?

I ran mine without one for a few years with no problems.

You may have an insulated spacer between the carb and manifold, try taking it out, will give you another 10mm?

As ohters have said its been shortend too much, here's a bad picture of my RS2000 sump, this hangs below the gearbox. Another way to add capacity would be to fit a big oil cooler, then probably blank most of it off! I wouldn't think the standard pump will make any difference, the flow will be the same its just the pressure valve is set lower than the HP one.

Tell us more about your sump and pick up pipe, have you fitted a gasket between the pipe and the pump? What breathers do you have on the engine, and you should be using 20-50 oil ps.There is a good reason for the max mark on the dipstick!

Many years ago someone, Chris Brown? did an article on fitting disc brakes to drum brake arms, it may have involved a large hammer.

It was a great day, good weather and lovely cars. Many thanks for the turnout, enthusiasm and tea! Hope everyone got home ok.

Check to see if you have a rubber doughnut at the gearbox end of the prop, they have a habit of breaking up after 30 yrs!

I don't know if the N W Hoodies site is being kept up to date but I have found it very useful for lots of things including part nos. If anyone is interested here are a couple more Ford numbers:- Type 9 gearbox nylon saddle PF 1522783 Prop bolts, diff flange 6118344

What engine do you have to pass the emissions test? Has the car only recently been registered?

My comment about your handbrake was based on the fact you have a wooden chock on the front wheel. Yes Brumster you were right, I had to spend a day stripping them down and setting them up to be in with a vague chance of getting through the MOT. I was going to fit MGF calipers but things changed.

Looks like the handbrake is not too good though! I The Robin Hood had a shorter bonnet and the driver was moved forwards a bit. Although the K3 GTM I had handled very well, the handbrake was awful on that.

Rubber brake hoses are fabric braided to withstand the pressure, it will have about a 4:1 safety factor. As for temperature they are made from the same material as the seals in the calipers and will be good for 150°C, much higher and you will be boiling the fluid anyway.

This is the layout for the event, we are plot 3 in the circle bit, same as last year, if I can attach it! 2019Kimbolton-Layout for Clubs.pdf

I now have the wristbands so can those who asked let me know their addresses? Thanks

Brakes coming on on their own as it were, is a sign that the master cylinder is not returning to its fully open position. This is sometimes due to a too long push rod or the brake pedal return restricted. This prevents the fluid being able to flow back into the master cylinder. It sounds like there is a problem with the carb could be as simple as the float not shutting off the fuel supply. Hunting indicates an air leak in the inlet system, check all the gaskets and any hoses that are connected to the manifold.

When the engine is running what happens when you push the clutch in and try to select a gear.