richyb66

Flush would be OK. If the bezels protrude less than 3.2mm, the edges just need to be blunted rather than a 2.5mm radius that is required if the protrusion is more than 3.2mm

Thanks Al, I'll pm you later and try and sort something out.

Still looking. Would consider a pair if someone has them and doesn't want to split them. Would also consider borrowing one, you can have it back afterwards and I can work out a deal to make it worth your while.

I'm a bit late posting this update due to a busy week but October saw the following new members join the club: Alistair T Alistair Thompson Belfast David V CherryTreeFW Nantwich Stuart G Darthbambam Southampton Richard D RickDaley Manchester Nigel K Nike55 Watford Neil T Neil 911 Farington Tim C Tim Cox Lilleshall Welcome to everyone. Just a reminder that we are hoping to get regular meetings in the North West up and running again - more details in this thread: https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/49916-potential-nw-area-meets/

https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/delphi/1772361?gshp=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrJOMBhCZARIsAGEd4VEl5fhbXE-17ZYHXlkThwGtLQAdoXNlinaEbB0r6PZmbDtFDyuqynAaAiNMEALw_wcB A lot cheaper than I expected.

How much for the rug and the Gilbows? Can you deliver?

That's a nice solution.

Your driveshafts look to have the boots with an integral metal can which is crimped around the whole joint. These are no longer available. You'll need to cut just the old rubber off then use a universal type boot instead (ideally the stretchy type that will fit without dismantling the joint. Have a read of this thread and it should make more sense:

That's the engine block breather, it just pushed in. The other end should go in to your air filter to burn any engine fumes.

When you take any shaft out, there's always a possibility of leakage so it pays to be prepared.

Remove the brake shoes and you can unbolt the 4 hub carrier bolts through holes in the hub. You should then be able to withdraw the whole shaft through the brake backplate. The shaft is held in to the diff with a wire clip in a groove. You'll probably need to lever the shaft at the diff end to get it to pop out.

Probably not a definitive list but these might help: Keep as much wiring and bits as you can, they might be useful. Are you using the Mazda fuel system and ECU, if you are you'll be needing the immobiliser.

I can't remember who created this presentation so I can't give them credit but it's got some useful information in it. Sliding pillar assy.ppt

So it won't pull the slack up with the self adjuster?

Have you got the Sierra pedal box with the ratchet clutch quadrant?

I think the oil in the expansion bottle needs investigation. Can you do a pressure test on the cooling system to verify if it is holding pressure or if it's leaking back in to the engine.

Why not try fixing the actual problem rather than using expensive coolant? If the cooling system is in good condition the fan should be capable of keeping it cool when stationery. Have you got an electric fan, how close is it to the radiator, is it coming on soon enough?

On a 2B you don't need a separate piece of material for the front of the roof, you can make it all in one piece. Everything else is pretty much the same as in that thread.

Yes, I've made a few. There's a thread on one I made last year here: Not exactly the same as a 2B (far more complicated) but the basics are the same.

Next Wednesday (27th) , 7PM onwards, Malt Shovel Pub, Coventry Road, Nr Stonebridge, Coventry, CV7 7HL Entrance to the pub car park is off the A452 Chester Road heading North 50 yards from the island. See you there.

We will be sending out an e-mail shot shortly. If you're already on this thread, you will probably still get an e-mail. Apologies for this but it's easier to send it to everyone rather than filter people out. Obviously only club members in the general NW area will be contacted, we have no easy way of contacting community users but they're still welcome to get involved.

2B with sliding pillar front suspension.

Unbuilt kits are difficult to sell, people seem to be put off buy the work needed and the £500ish cost of the IVA test to get on the road. Realistically the kit plus the donor car is worth maybe £2k max to someone who is willing to take it on. Sadly, it's probably worth more in parts. A decent Sierra could be worth that much on its own and individual parts of the kit will have some value to them. Personally I'd rather see unbuilt kits finished and on the road so I'd always try selling as a complete package first.

I believe the shock on the sliding pillar is from a classic mini. Is this the part you mean or are you on about the shaft that goes up inside the spring?

Come on folks, we need your input to get these meets going again. I know Stephen Percival tried to do it a while ago and didn't get much response but that's not going to stop us trying again. If I get time later this week, I will send an email out to members in the general area just in case they're not on the forum.