Foz

Congratulations, hopefully you'll get chance for a run out before winter sets in - just have to judge it in between storms ! I've got to ask, why "Britney" ? All the best, Steve

Welcome to you all, hopefully you'll all find something useful within the club. It's that time of year for getting all the jobs done on our cars ready for spring - ask if there's anything you're struggling with and we'll try and answer, you may even find there's someone nearby willing to help. Enjoy your kits, Steve

Looking at this picture it looks like a standard pedal box to me and, as far as I'm aware, I think you'd be able to interchange pedals. Your brake & clutch pedals do actually look further apart from one another than I think they should be as standard. It may be my eyesight & memory that's questionable though !!! Unfortunately I don't have a standard, unmodified one to measure for reference, but somebody might be able to help with some measurements.

I'm assuming it's a Sierra pedal box so the throttle pedal is separate and you should be able to remove the brake & clutch pedals as one lump. You can the remove the pedals from the box and reshape them. I modified mine by making V cuts in the side of the pedals, bending them to where I wanted them and then welding them back up. I would recommend you buy another pedal box to modify, just in case it goes horribly wrong ! Also, as Bob says, the welding needs to be good and the cuts may need bracing - you need to make sure the brake pedal is at least as strong as it was. The throttle pedal should be fairly easy to re-position. Easier options may be :- If you want the pedals higher is there room to move the whole pedal box up a bit ? The pedals pivot on a round bar in the pedal box with springs and spacers to keep them in position. You may be able to move the brake pedal a bit closer to the clutch by swapping spacers (as long as it doesn't get too far out of line with the master cylinder) and that would save you chopping the pedals. Hope this helps, Steve

Do you need to replace the whole heater or is it just the control you want to change ? As Neil suggests, CBS do a range of heater bits and if the heater itself is OK, you could just replace the slider with a rotary control if the plan is to re-do the dash. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/slimline-inline-rotary-heater-valve-controller Either way it's well worth a look round the CBS website - there's plenty of stuff there to give you ideas, and cost you money !

That looks like a Sierra cable to me. I also think that the broken bit (in the photo by the spring) is the home made nipple to go on the cut end of the shortened cable. You may be able to feed your cable back through and fit another nipple, as in the pdf from Sparepart, if it's not got damaged anywhere.

I don't think that there is a straightforward answer for this. It is probably a Sierra cable shortened by however much is necessary for wherever the handbrake is. Can you post a photo or 2 to help identify it ?

Hi Craig, welcome to the club. It looks like an S3 to me - have a look here - https://nw.rhocar.org/htm/identification.htm The clocks and stalks look like Sierra to me as well. Options for re-doing the dash are probably as numerous as the number of cars built. Have a search on here & you should find lots of picture and info. on instruments and dash. I would take your time, study a few designs and mock them up on your car to make sure you can see everything before you decide. There is little worse than making and fitting a nice new dash panel only to find that you can't see the petrol gauge when your hand's on the steering wheel. (Don't ask how I know). That engine looks like a Ford "pinto" to me, quite possibly from a Sierra. Have a look on the side of the block, there should be numbers cast in the side which give the engine size. Earlier blocks had 2 digits, later ones 3. 16 or 16x is a 1600, 18 or 18x is an 1800 and 20 or 20x is a 2 litre. The "x" digit is an indication of the construction of the block. I would say the power figures you've got are about right for a tuned 2 litre. Hope this helps, Steve

Here's the page on the NW site https://nw.rhocar.org/buildtips//38dgas.htm but the DGAS and DGAV carbs are different animals. The DGAV is usually quite a good carb on the pinto and setting it to stock jetting should get it running reasonably, all depends on how it been "butchered" of course.

Can I interest you in some bolognaise sauce to go with your spaghetti ? Good luck mate, take your time and take lots of pictures so you know what went where.

I don't know if this will help or confuse but here's a photo of the dash I made for the Cobra.

The "Barrelback" is a bit of a rarity and there doesn't seem to be much info. around for it. I have found a post stating that the donor for them was either Mk4 or 5 Cortina but how much was Cortina & how much was RH is a good question.

Good question ! I think most later S7s had Ford pinto engines & type 9 gearboxes but I don't know that much about the S7 so I'm not sure how different the later models were. Maybe there's some else on here who can remember and offer some advise.

You should be able to make it fit but it certainly won't be a straight swap. I don't know of anyone who has tried to put an MX5 engine in an S7 but somebody may well have done.

There are several versions of front suspension for the 2B. It depends what you've got as to how well you'll get it to self centre. Have a search of the forums and you should find plenty of previous posts on this.

I don't recognise that, but someone else might. Have a look on here https://nw.rhocar.org/htm/identification.htm and see if you can match it up to anything. Steve

You're welcome to it for the cost of the postage. I can't promise that the alternator is any good - it was OK when I put it up, but that was a few years ago. I'm going to be busy this next few days but I'll get you a price for postage as soon as I can and send you a PM as soon as I know.

Just had a rummage round and found an alternator with a pulley on , also found a water pump but no pulley on it . You're welcome to the alternator (or just the pulley) if you want it, assuming you can track down the other ones. Steve

I have some pinto bits lurking in the recesses of the garage loft. I think there's an old alternator which has a pulley on and there could possibly be a water pump pulley. I'll have a look tomorrow and let you know what I can find. Sorry but I don't think there's a bottom pulley up there. Steve

I hope you've got some inside information and we're going to have some glorious sunshine on Sunday My pinto used to run between 85 & 90, it had an electric fan that kicked in about 85ish. I only ever remember it going over 90 once, when I was stuck in a line of traffic on a red hot summer day. It went up to about 95 but didn't boil over or anything, and it soon cooled down to 90 as soon as there was some fresh air through the rad. If I recall the thermostat opening was 89 degrees. Don't panic until it's getting close to 100 !!

Welcome to you all, hopefully you'll all find something useful within the club. What must be one of the last events of the year is coming up - Steve

Hi Al, I have a pass out whoopee ! ......................... but I've also got a leaking radiator !!!!!!!!!!!! I chucked some radweld in which improved things but it still keeps dripping, I reckon it's time for a new radiator. I won't have chance to replace it before next weekend so I'll keep an eye on it this week and let you know if I think it will make it. Steve

OOH ECK! I don't think you're going to be able to use that pulley again ! One suggestion is an angle grinder with a cutting disc, cut through the pulley in line with the crankshaft, (along the keyway is the thinnest bit). When you're nearly through, support the pulley securely, put a chisel in the cut and hit it (hard). Hopefully the pulley will split and you can then pull it off. If that doesn't shift it put another cut in the pulley on the opposite side. Good luck, Steve

Yes, you have to stretch them over the trumpets - go gently, it's easy to get too enthusiastic and rip them. Don't ask how I know !!! They come in a variety of sizes and I would recommend going for the longest you can fit in between carb and side panel. As long as they were kept clean I didn't find any noticeable difference in performance.

I used to have foam filters on mine - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352081220887 Steve