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Everything posted by Foz
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I've had a few things from them over the last few years with no problems. The things I've had work well and were good value for occasional home use but probably not what you would consider "professional" quality. I don't think I've had anything actually fail on me - except my memory???
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Oooooh, goodies! How many things do you think I can sneak in the trolley under the groceries ??
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Moving the seat back should be easy & I don't think you'll need to move the pedals unless you have very long legs. I am 6'1" and I don't have my seat all the way back in my 2B. I'm guessing your seats are fixed in which case I would unbolt the drivers seat and see how far back it will actually go - you may need to lift it a tad to clear the rear suspension fixings but it should go all the way back until it's touching the rear panel. If that gives you enough leg room then you would then have to decide if you're going to bolt it back in a fixed position or add runners. If that doesn't give you enough room then you are probably looking at a replacement pedal box as I don't think it's really practical to move the sierra set-up forwards but somebody else may well have done it - there are some very innovative folk in this club! Hope this helps, Steve
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I've tried it on a couple of cars with little or no success - it might well work at higher speeds, as Dean says, but for normal driving round town etc. it didn't do anything for me.
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Hi Matthew, I'm guessing by the lack of replies that nobody's got any. You can still get them from GBS. I had to replace my rears earlier this year as they had started to weep. They were in stock and I think it cost me about £240 for the pair, including carriage. All the best, Steve
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Hi Nick, welcome to the club. I bought my 2B over 10 years ago and it still makes me smile every time I drive it. It's not the best kit car in the world, in fact it's not the best 2B in the UK but it's still great fun. I think there are a few members in your area and, if you can, get a look at a few of their cars. You'll see that Robin Hoods are all slightly different - you make it the way that you want it. Keep watching the website - I'm sure there'll be other members replying to you. Steve
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Hi Mick, If you've had the head off you will have had the timing belt off which means your distributor drive could now be a tooth or 2 out. It's easy enough to loosen the dizzy and adjust it a few degrees - I don't think you'll need to take the belt off unless the dizzy won't turn far enough. Hope this helps, Steve.
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Hi Andi, I hope to be there in the kit, is Rich going tonight ?
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I cracked one of the ones on my seat & couldn't find a replacement anywhere. I ended up taking it out & turning it round so you can't see the damage ! I'll be really interested if you find a supplier at reasonable prices.
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Now sold, thanks.
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Looks like we're going to be at the daughter's house most of today so if anyone messages me today don't think I'm ignoring you but I probably won't be able to reply until tonight.
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I need to clear some space in my garage! This is the block from the original engine in my car and was running OK when it came out. As far as I know it has done about 120K miles from new, bearings, shells etc. are all original, the only work done on it was to replace the sump with the shortened one you can see in the photos. The clutch was new when the kit was built so it has done about 10k miles and was working fine when it came out. The head I'm selling is from the replacement engine which I fitted to my car and which I bought a rebuilt engine with the head off so I could check pistons etc. All I can tell you about this head is that it's an injection one which I was told has had the inlet ports opened up for twin 45s (you can see that on the pictures). As I am running twin 40s and my original head was in good nick and had been skimmed & ported etc. I put my original head on the new block. I hope you're keeping up with this story ! I would say that both the block and head would need a good looking at to check their condition & to see what work has been done on the head. Could be a nice winter project ? I think I've got a standard cam & followers which I'll chuck in if you want it ........................ as soon as I find it. All I'm asking is £50 of your finest pounds and you can come and take it away. Collection from Stoke-on-Trent. Thanks for looking, Steve.
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Hi Kev, My 2B has 205/50R15 tyres on it's original RH alloys with no problems but I can't say what the wheel offset is. I have recently replaced the cycle wing supports because the originals had cracked but there was never an issue with clearance. It might be worth putting a picture up of your brackets as there are a few versions and more than 1 wheel offset knocking about as far as I am aware.
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Photos of my linkage attached - this was the original linkage on the carbs when I bought the carbs but I have no idea where it came from (somebody on here might recognise it). When I fitted the short manifold I modified it so that the cable adjusters are higher up, putting less of a bend in the cables as they go over the engine. I also replaced what was a metal arm with the white nylon piece you can see - the metal arm was a loose fit at the carb end & rattled about giving about 1/2" free play at the pedal. The nylon arm cured this. Hope this helps, Steve.
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The manifold I'm using is from Burton Power - their part No. IM4272. If you go on their website I think it will give you sizes but it is only about 35mm from head to carbs. The linkage I'm using is one I modified myself - I'll try and get a picture of it to give you an idea of what it looks like.
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Welcome to the club - you now have a job (or jobs) for life! I'm assuming you're running a pinto engine but correct me if not. I tried a number of catch tanks and things with my pinto but ended up with a pipe from the crankcase breather feeding into the air intake for the carbs. What I would say is that I only ever got vapour and fumes from the breather - I have never had oil spitting out. I don't know if maybe you are getting excessive blow past the rings or something? I'm sure there are people on here who will be able to offer more advice and get you sorted. All the best, Steve
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The head on mine has been skimmed by about 1mm (I think), the exhaust valve seats have been replaced with hardened ones for unleaded fuel and the ports were re-shaped to Dave Andrews instructions. The work was carried out at a local machine shop which sadly shut down a few years ago. As to fuel economy, on a steady run I can get close to 30mpg and on a track day I've had it down to single figures but, as Mark says, who cares !
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I have twin 40s on mine & they work a treat although they aren't the most economical of devices ! The best way to get them sorted is a session on a rolling road with somebody "old school" You'll really need to see what jets & chokes are in them - easy enough to change but they won't work too well at all if they aren't matched to the engine. I can tell you what are in mine if you'd like but I have an FR32 cam in and the head has had some work so it's not "standard". Steve
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It depends on what size manifold you've got and how well fixed (or not) your engine is. I have fairly short ones on mine - about 20mm long, using a short manifold plus a steady bar to stop the engine rocking. If you put longer ones on you may well find that they kiss chassis when the engine rocks. Steve
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Hi Ant, Sorry but I don't know much about the subk (mine is a 2B). There are folks on here that will know a lot more about them than me, but I'm only down the road from you in Tunstall if you want to meet up & kick tyres. All the best, Steve.
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I'll do my best to be there Andi, hopefully in the kit - it'll be the first time it's been anywhere this year!
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I'm assuming it's a pinto engine - if so have you got 20W/50 oil in it? Pintos don't like modern thin oil & rattle like a bag of spanners. The thin oil can also do serious damage to the engine if you run it for any length of time. Valve & cam noise on a pinto often sound more like metallic tapping rather than a knock. Can you tell if the noise if more from the head or the block? You can check the oil flow from the spray bar by dropping the cam cover off & removing the spark plugs. Spin the engine over on the starter & you should see oil come from all the holes in the bar, onto the cam lobes. Don't try running the engine with the cam cover off or you, your car and anything near by will get well soaked in oil. If the spray bar is blocked I would buy a new one rather than risk a used one. Steve.
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Free to RHOCAR members !! I bought this drill from Aldi when my old faithful drill was playing up and only used it half a dozen times. All the bits & bobs should be with it, including it's box but please don't ask me to pull it apart & fit it back into the polystyrene. Lockdown gave my time to fix "old faithful" and now this new one is just gathering dust - if I stub my toe on it again it'll probably get chucked over the wall! If any members want to come and collect it from Stoke-on-Trent they are very welcome to it - it's not the best in the world but what do you want for nowt? Send me a PM if you're interested. If you're not a RHOCAR member this might be an incentive to join ? Steve.
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What sort of fuel pump are you using? I had a problem with an electric pump & pressure regulator set up. The pressure regulator would adjust itself and increase the pressure to a point where it overcame the float valve, flooding the carbs. It took me a while to find as it was usually OK when you were driving around, but played up on tick-over.