IanS

83 stalks would switch the headlights directly. later stalks have smaller contacts internally and are designed to switch relays for the headlights. 3 relays required sidelights, dipped headlight & main headlight. Relay coil connected to suppply and switch connects the other end of coil to earth to operate. Headlights only have power with ignition on. Sorry I no longer have further details.

Normally ford has only one flasher that does both the indicators and the hazards.

I went to ebay for a 3 pin LED indicator relay. Down side is that it is silent (does not bleep or click)

Glad someone asked. Waited at the car park untill 11:15 then in a convoy of one went round my idea of the route. I have never seen the sea so far into the land at Southport, not a single sign of sand, sea was trying to get over the wall to the north of Southport. At Crosby the sea was washing right up to the car park with lots of rubble on the tarmac. The heads of another place by Gormley were showing through the surf. You missed a memoriable trip but I know that my weather gear mostly works. My Ozee suit was more than up to the conditions. https://www.ozee.co.uk/ Look forward to meeting everyone in the flesh. We should have gone on Sunday. Ian

Well the forcast could be better but I intend to be at standish 11ish. Look forward to meeting any others. Fingers crossed. Ian

The original option of rear coil over shocks were actually modified mini rear shocks. When used like this the rubber bushes were not up to the job and disintegrated fairly fast. When used as shocks without the springs they should be good.

I beg to differ. I use the shock bracket with lower rare springs, I do not remember the rate. Adjustable dampers can be set to what you like. But the hole needs drilling out to 0.5inch if i recall correctly. It has worked fine for me for over 20 years.

In short I drilled a new hole and used the pedal unmodified.

I recall that Richard had a bit of difficulty convincing the DVLA that this was a commercial vehicle for the purposes of IVA. I recall it being a pickup with a local Vets name on it and a dog carrier in the back.

You wanted images. This is my setup, the fan is about 5mm off the rad core and pulls the air through. There are no vents in the bonnet the air goes out through the floor past the engine or down the transmission tunnel. I put the engine straight into the kit from the doner, it overheated all the time so I removed the thermostat which did nothing for the overheating. So I used Holts speedflush and an amaising amount off crap came out and now I ran cold except when stuck in stopped traffic. So I refitted the thermostat, removed the viscous fan (you can still see the screw thread on the water pump) and fitted the electric fan shown with a thermostatic switch and now run at normal temperature all the time. The engine is a 2l pinto with the doner dgas32/38 carb so gives about 100hp.

A friend in the lotus7 club recently fitted electrical heating to his seats. Those low flying types need to harden up.

Looking at the IVA requirements you are covered. screenshots from IVA manual. See note 1

I can second that.

Seats out, carpet out and attack from on top. Just an idea fitted mine in 1996 and not been touched since so memory might be a bit misty!

The outer swinging arm bush bolts probably have to be removed to release the subframe. They go through a reinforcing plate attached to the floor under the seats. I also have a bolt vertically up hidden by the rubber bush used to mount the subframe to the car body on the sierra as recommended by richard stewart in his build videos.

I used similar to this to mount the fan direct to the rad. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/fan-mount-kit-with-assorted-feet I also used https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/adjustable-fan-controller-thermostat to control the fan, fitted to the top hose. The bulb is in the top hose and feeds in through the joint between the top hose and the rad. You can probably get these cheeper on amazon/ebay. For the MOT just leave the switch on untill you can update. I removed the viscous fan as it does very little and most are actually dead as they were not long lived in the original fitment.

I am up for a meet. Keep me informed. Ian

Araldite the tube into the block. Clean oil off the tube and hole in the block first.

Vacuum advance is for economy. The only thing that suffers disconnecting it is MPG. How much if suffers depends on how you drive, if you drive flat out all the time then vacuum advance makes no difference, if you pussey foot around then 10 to 15%.

Fuse is to protect the wireing not the load. Most kit looms use 2 guages of wire, high current (from alternator etc) and normal which will be OK at 20A.

If it works left and not right it is not the flasher unit. Hazard switches are a favorite for this followed by a short to earth on the right circuit.

I am not certain how to choose the servo as I have not seen a list of servo gains. There is another variable which is the size of the master cylinder bore. A bigger bore will give a lower pressure and information on bore sizes is available.

It is not the size of the servo that dictates its force gain. The size gives the maximum force. Inside the servo is a proportioning valve that sets the gain. There are 2 springs that set the gain, The only time I took one to bits I found that the springs had a lot of stored energy (as I expected) so precautions during disassembly need to be taken. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbTUvp-tD5M Is a video that gives some idea of how these work.

My attitude to this is to check continuity. With a volt meter measuring volts first check that both wires are at the same voltage. ( if volts are not the same then they are are obviously not connected) Then switching to a low resistance range check for continuity.

The main thing switched off during starting was the radio/tape player. This was to stop the tapes tangling, remember C90s and a pencil to try to get them staright.