Jez Morton

I'd mitre, easier one direction cut and should be strong enough for most jobs when welded. Jez

On my telemetrix tacho the bulb is behind a grommet on the rear . It's the quarter turn type you find on most instrument clusters

Have you got the rubber from the top of the spring fitted, would add a bit to ride height?

I'll be there.

Think of it more of an opportunity to upgrade? Was never happy with my s7 front and converted it to wishbone. Someone in the club was offering the parts years ago so doubt if you could get it now. It was basically the front 2 foot of a space frame seven which you could bolt on.

That's the picture I would have posted. There is one issue if you use this with the fog light circuit. With only side lights on, if you press the fog switch the light will go out on the switch, this is because the fog lights only operate with headlights and there is no power to illuminate the LED(+VE Feed would be foglight feed). Wont be an IVA or MOT issue as the fog light wont be on and if its dark enough to need the illumination to find the switch then you would have headlights on. Just something to bear in mind when testing your handy work.

I'be done just this thing. I used one pole of the switch for the function and the second pole to switch the side lights via a 4700 ohm resistor. On one side of the switch wire the power to pin 1 and the output from pin 2 goes to feature (lamp) and also to pin 2 of second pole. On the other pole of the switch connect side light feed via the resistor into pin 3 and connect pin 1 to led A. Led B is ground. When switch is not activated pin 3 is normally closed so side light feed is connected to led but dimmed due to resistor. Activate the switch and the side light is disconnected and the output from pin 2 from the other switch is feed to the led at full brightness. I know pictures would be easier but I'm on a tablet.

My fronts and rears are both 32 clicks, GBS supplied GAZ shocks. Just speaking from experience 5 clicks was to soft on mine and left the rear bouncy. Too little damping wouldn't keep the tyre in contact with the road.

I run my 2B with tyres 18psi and rear dampers set at 12 clicks. My ride height is set to give correct camber around 1 to 1.5deg which incidentally gives a small amount of toe in. With dampers down at 5 clicks you may be under damped and the wheels could be losing contact with the road as they bounce.

What are your symptoms, hunting idle speed, revving high?

If it's a 2B plus, what gap is there between the plough (chassis hoop that's under the engine) and the floor. At that ride height it can't be much and you'll be grounding quite a lot. Raise the ride height so you have at least 3 inches to the road and you may even get over the odd speed bump and clear the headlights.

What is on the V5 for the model?

I drilled and tapped M4 I think, and used stainless dome headed bolts cut short enough to go through and not touch the glass. Tip, it's easier to cut down longer bolts than short ones, I couldnt get the right length.

Hey Alex how are shortening the gear stick? Are you just cutting down? Type 9 is normal to push down to go into reverse. If the issue is, you hit the dash with your hand in 1st 3rd 5th, then look at a quick shift it will reduce the throw. There's an easy DIY method that just needs 3 M10 nuts, you knock the metal part of the lever down through its plastic pivot 8mm and use the m10 nuts as spacers under the lever mounting plate. I'm sure that there's a document somewhere that gives better instructions if any one has it please post. Jez

I got mine from Halfords, but it was at least 6 years ago. Standard cap for Capri, Cortina etc.

Don't think that will work as an expansion tank, if the outlet of the rad isn't in the water it can't suck it back in. Has the rad cap got two rubber seals, usually need a second seal on top. Just for reference 6 litres of water will expand to 6.26l going from 20 to 100 degrees, got that off a plumbing web site when I was dealing with an air lock on my 2B.

The offers still there if you need it.

It may very well be a 2B SubK, but one that has had a wishbone conversion. The sub k would of had a mini McPherson strut front suspension. You could get a 2B Plus (front wishbone) or a cheaper 2B subK (McPherson) when I brought my kit.

Just looked at torque, Haynes says 250 to 290 Nm. I have a 350Nm wrench which easy pulled the torque without having to standing on it.

All the torque wrenches I have work one way, right hand thread. To do my left hub I took the ratchet head apart and rebuilt it with the drive coming out the other side. It's is a simple job to switch it just two screws.

If it's wrong you can change the end that's goes into the box, I did it the other way going from 4 to 5 speed on my s7 many moons ago. I think any good prop specialist should be able to help.

I use the same method for caster setting, but I use a digital inclinometer/protractor. Very handy as can be put across the wheel so no need to remove wheels.

You can use one stabilizer, one 12 volt wire to its input/12v and 2 wires from the 10 volt output to each gauge.

When you say your gauge isn't reading accurately, which gauge isn't right and are you using the correct sender for the gauge? I do believe for Smith's classic you need the voltage stabilizer, this will supply 3 gauges, how many are connected. You earthed the stabilizer on the back of the rev counter, is the case of the rev counter earthed? Can you add an earth wire to it. Are you feeding the rev counter the stabilizer 10 volts? It looks a lot like a Telemetrix rev counter from the rear (which I have) so maybe a 12 volt rev counter and should not need 10v. Check the spec! Try the stabilizer connected to just the 52mm gauges and make sure it is earthed correctly. Good luck.

Hi Alex, I have one you can borrow, it's not been used for a long time though over 10 years I think. If you can get a known good one then go for that, if your stuck give me a shout. Jez