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Showing results for 'stalk wiring'.
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Hi , Ive finally remade the body on my car , im at the stage of putting in the loom but I’m struggling to find a diagram for a Vicki green pinto. Can anyone help me out ? A Sierra one may also help for cross reference. Thanks
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Reading the IVA regs you now need to make sure that the fog lights cannot come back on after the ignition has been switched off. You can get a module to do it automatically from car builder solutions but it is only suitable for one light. We have two. Is there a wiring mod you can do or do you have to have two modules at £35 each?
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Bench testing a new loom and I’ve got almost all the way there with the light but slightly stalled and thought it wouldn’t hurt to ask for help. I have 3 switches. one for driving lights. One for headlamps and one to toggle main beam dipped beam. I have driving lights working ok on a relay. I have headlamps working ok with main beam dipped beam ok. The head Lamp works off a switch and relay. The relay then powers the second relay which toggles between main and dipped beam. all good so far. the challenge is I want to be able to switch on the driving lights independently AND have them come on IF the headlamps are on. I thought I could do this by taking the coil side of the headlamp relay and running that as a second trigger for the driving lamp relay (as well as the switch). as suspected that shorts things out. Is there a proper way to do this? Maybe I need a fourth relay in the mix. ive added a truly awful diagram which worked until I added on the fancy part of triggering the driving lamp relay.
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I I'm told it was a good meet (if a bit muddy by the look of it) but unfortunately I wasn't there Just 2 miles after leaving home my engine cut out and I came to a graceful halt on a grass verge. It was pretty obvious the fuel pump had failed for some reason (on the Superspec, when you turn on the ignition the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds. Might wasn't). After checking all the relays/fuses/wires/kill switch I came to the conclusion there was no way I could fix it at the side of the road. So I went to the AutoAid app (I have a policy with them as a result of a recommendation on this forum). Very efficient and a chap pitched up after about 45 mins. Surprisingly he was familiar with kit cars and wasn't horrified at the 'rats nest' I call a wiring loom. He did all the same checks as me and also diagnosed a pump failure. So for the first time in almost 10 years I was towed home (we had to take off the nose cone to find somewhere to attached the tow bar. So now all I have to do is fix it Al
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I have a Smiths 4cyl negative earth tacho I want to wire into my car but unsure of what connections go where, I have searched several sites and all say 4 wires to tacho but there is no spade for earthing casing ….. is my diagram correct? any help would be much appreciated I was going to connect wire from -ve side of coil to No 2 on pic and No1 on pic to -ve terminal on coil then connect No 3 to permanent +ve supply
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Hi to all, premier wiring are in the process of making me a loom for my superspec. They have sorted the indicators and headlamps stalk out so that is perfectly spliced in. The issue they are having is with the wiper stalk. I purchased a brand new febi bilstein one, part number 31169. This crosses back to Ford Focus Mk1 less rear wiper with finis code 1093426. This is the simplest version that was available at the time. This has resistors and not proper switches etc and is not usable. Does anyone know the finis code for the correct one to use? We are all confused!! Kind Regards Lloyd.
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So I’m currently wiring in my wiper motor following longboarders diagrams and as soon as I turn the ignition on it’s starts working no matter where the stalk is unless I select fast then they speed up. Any ideas? Cheers
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Hi, Does anyone know the switch sequence between the pins? The stalk in question numbers are; 87BG 13B 302 AA - it's the model with only the indicators, flash full beam & permanent full beam. I have indicators & flash full beam but no permanent full beam. Does that suggest the stalk itself is the issue or are there any fuses or relays that effect the permanent full beam and not the flash full beam?
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Hi all, new to the forum and new Robin hood owner, very much a project. So long story short, I've got a 2b which was running a full Sierra wiring loom botched in, but this got chewed by a mouse in previous owners hands. So I've got the gbs plug and play loom to which is mostly fitted. First problems I've come to are the wiper motor wiring and also fitting the Sierra stalks. Firstly the wiper motor wiring, I have an early 83 motor with 5 connectors and a gbs plug with 5 also, but non of the colours match up, if anyone could help with which go where, On the motor I have (left to right) brown, brown/white, black, red, green On the plug I have brown White red Blue green Then the Sierra stalks I have no idea with, I know I can buy the conversion kit, but they dont have any in stock and I dont really want to wait the month turn around time if I send my own off. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated Also I'm in Bradford, west yorkshire
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Morning, Following on from another thread, is there anyone who has time to take a look at the instructions for this switch I purchased for my IVA? https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/de/rear-fog-light-controller-for-new-iva-rules-for-momentary-switch The instructions look simple but I am really pushed for time and am planning on fitting the box over the weekend, test on Monday I am sure it will be simple but I don’t want to be struggling last minute. Does anyone know which wires should be taken from where? Also where should the box be located? As I say it looks simple and I am sure I will be fine but if someone recently fitted one and has a few words of wisdom to save me some time that would be awesome. thanks, Dan
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Have just got back to the project ( wide body gbs zero ) and have this morning been checking whether the Ecu is working and it is supplying the fuel pumps so I think the car will start when I supply some fuel . my question is for when I have purged the fuel lines and come to start the car . I have fitted the Ecu to the fire wall behind the dashboard and found it quite fiddle getting access to it to fit the wiring plug . Is this the best lace for it and does it have a basic map on it to get the car started and then fine tuning is made later ?
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I see that you have another post about the stalk switch electrics. Perhaps you might find the Sierra electric circuit diagrams useful in answering your questions. You can see these in the service and repair manual that you can try and download from the link below. Of course this assumes that you are using the donor wiring loom for your 2b. Probably the four wires that you have in the dome lights are for earth, side, main and dipped beams. Looking at the wiring diagram, page 13.56 there should be a brown wire (earth for the side light), grey/Red (sidelight), Blue/Brown (common return for main/high and dipped beam), Yellow(Dipped beam feed), White(Main/High beam feed). Thats 5 wires, so I don't know what the sixth is, but you will see the colour and check with the diagrams. Also if the loom is still on the donor then of course you can just check out which ones are live when you operate the lights to confirm the diagram. https://musse67.mbnet.fi/Taunus/Korjausoppaat/ Just had another look, and if the sixth wire is Black it's probably for the fog light, which you will most likely not need (yet). Note that the High/Dipped beams do not appear to run straight to earth (brown) like the side light and fog light. They use the Blue/Brown common return.
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Hi all, I’ve just recently joined the owners club and would appreciate some advice on sourcing an engine, gearbox, front hubs and rear axle for my build. I bought a new 2B kit way back in 2003/4 and after collecting it at the factory, driving back up to Scotland, unloading all the bits into my garage and buying a Ford Siera donor vehicle, for a variety of reasons it was never started. In the meantime I had to scrap the donor vehicle as I lost access to the storage facility where it was parked up and figured I would pick one up at a future point as Sierras were ten a penny. How times change and now Sierras are classics and worth £1000s!! I recently retired and now with plenty of time on my hands, I’ve decided to build the kit rather than sell it. I would rather not scrap an expensive classic Ford Sierra so sourcing the parts listed above individually appears to be my best option. I would also appreciate advice on sourcing a petrol tank, servo and any other parts I haven’t thought of yet. The kit I ordered included suspension, wheels, interior trim, windscreen, tonneau, wiring loom and a ton of other parts so it’s mainly the large components that I’d like advice on locating. Thanks in advance.
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Purchased my first ever kit car in August a 1983 Robin Hood 3a.2.0 pinto I have some mechanical knowledge, so I set about it, new carb and added manual choke, plugs, dizzy cap, rota arm, leads and coil set timing set emissions. She drove an absolute beauty for 4 -5 miles then started cutting out! back in the garage first though was a faulty kill switch so replaced no change some dodgy looking wiring to a relay under steering column replaced car fired up ready for test drive. Just gone to it today and no spark at all. Electrics and wiring are not my strong point I am really running out of ideas. I am thinking maybe the ignition switch in the key barrel could be the issue so thinking of losing it and going to flick and push button start on the dashboard would this be a good idea ? can anyone tell me how to wire this up ? any one got any more clues as to what could be going on I have no confidence in the wiring on this car I do know when it runs it is fantastic and everything I wanted it to be Frustrated newbie Leicestershire area ! I will also mention red light on dashboard full time when kill switch is on, 2 more lights one amber one red glow dim all the time when kill switch on key in ignition and turning makes no difference to any of these lights
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Hi Tim, I've updated the title of this post ('title' meant the subject of your post, not your title - a common mistake). Fitting a windscreen and motor is not the simplest job in the world, I'm afraid. It depends on how prepped the car was before - does it have holes in the scuttle for the main support brackets and wiper gearboxes or not? Do you have any of the wiring in place for the motor and switch? I did mine (on a Zero which had the holes pre-drilled) during the build process, which is much easier. I recorded this in several blog posts, starting with this one, if that helps at all? https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2017/07/framed.html If you live anywhere near Tamworth, I can recommend a member of the club who runs a garage business and you can pay him to do it for you?
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Does any one have a wiring diagram for the kit spares chassis wiring loom Many thanks
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Hi guys, Drove the superspec to work and must say it's lovely to be back out in it even in this cold weather. However, as I was driving along a guy pulled out right in front of me and slammed on the brakes and pressed the horn and suddenly had no electrics. Thankfully it was only a fuse but that then made me wonder. I have changed the fuses countless times whilst chasing what was wrong and want to know what are the fuse ratings for all the fuse ratings on the premier wiring loom. TIA
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Many thanks to everyone for the help and advise, Saturday I tried again whipped the plugs out and cleaned them up she fired up easily! ran to temp and purred like a kitten. Although I have lost confidence to take it out on a main road, I will wait until I have a friend local with a tow rope who can rescue me if it cuts out when driving, really appreciate the offer of time Tractor however we are away sat - Sat for the half term week. Let me road test it when the weather is good enough over the next few weeks, (it is possible ive accidentally fixed it with recent jobs) If it plays up ill start testing the wiring as Richyb66 suggested if i am still pulling my hair out I might just shout for HELP !
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Before you start changing things you need to find out what the current wiring is. Sounds odd you have these lights on, any idea what they are supposed to be? Hopefully there will be someone nearby who can help.
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Unlikely to be the ignition switch more likely to be a bad connection somewhere. Get a 12v test light and connect it between a decent earth and the positive side of the coil. With the ignition on, the light should be on. Start poking and jiggling at the wiring and see if the light goes out (or comes on if it wasn't on before). Pay particular attention to connectors and earth points. Look out for non factory looking crimped terminals, anything with tape on which might hide a bad connection.
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Hi I have recently acquired some focus stalks from the scrappers down the road and want to wire them up. Problem is I don't know which wire goes where. I have a good few inch of the multi plug wiring for both indicators and wipers. Can anyone help Cheers
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Hi all, I have a question about the wiring of the stalks from a 1990 sierra whilst I' trying to track down peristaltic drain. I am slightly confused by 2 spade terminals on the top of light/wiper stalk (right hand). The ones in question are on the attached above 56 & 31b2. Only the one above 31b2 is connected and measures 12v without keys in and appears to be connected to ground. Any help would be appreciated and stop my head hurting from banging it against a brick wall.
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I’m after a wiring diagram for a 1991 to 2000 mk 4/5 transit indicator stalk for my Robin Hood
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wiring is simple +ve Live supply to gearbox switch, feed from switch to reverse lamp terminal, feed from other reverse lamp terminal to earth
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Hi, sorry not car related but you chaps are always knowledgeable so i'm hoping you'll be able to answer this for me. I bought a touch screen thermostat like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Programmable-16A-LCD-Electric-Heating-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-UK-PLUG/183420850951?hash=item2ab4bc1307:g:ORgAAOSw2iFbhPX6and i didn't read that it is actually for underfloor electric heating. They say not to connect to a boiler as it will cause damage and whilst i havent done that i have connected it to my wiring centre for my underfloor heating which then controls actuators and turns the boiler on when needed. It is all connected and working using the number 1 connection for the load as the switched live and the L + N as indicated leaving the N (number 2 connection) of the load unused. I can't see how or why this could damage anything but i also don't want to burn my house down. Can anyone see a logical reason why this shouldn't be used like this? It is only switching a live on to signal the wiring centre and it is a fraction of what the switch is designed to handle. any help appreciated.
