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K-Series Gbs Zero


brumster
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Would suggest a little length of rubber tube over the Starter cable where its fixed mid way --- 'cause that's a good point for chafing & you will for certain be pee'd off if the main 100 amp cable shorted out the battery.

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Would suggest a little length of rubber tube over the Starter cable where its fixed mid way --- 'cause that's a good point for chafing & you will for certain be pee'd off if the main 100 amp cable shorted out the battery.

 

Fair point and good suggestion...!

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I don't know if you've seen these before but the link below is a pic of a support method that GBS recommended to me and I used all over my car. Works really well, holding stuff firm but allowing some movement. You could use that and attach to the silicon pipe (?) in your pic:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/la9vHCG9EKN59xs92

 

If it's not clear, it's a cable tie through a small piece of fuel pipe.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking through the fail sheet, I noticed something that he'd not actually mentioned on the day. Chased it up with him via email and he also had an issue with the harness tops; the metal loops that mount the harness webbing to the top mounts.

 

So back to onshape and the 3D printer (bloody paid for itself by now, I tell you!)...

 

nTcW3huve5RPMjLAHErSg2DgORo31UGbIJEeQ6WL

 

If these are any use to people I can run them off, or send these ones once we're done, for a notional price (as long as it covers the material and a bit of wear and tear on the printer; not looking to make money out of them)...

 

Otherwise we're pretty much done and ready for next monday and the re-test...

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Spent the morning at a friendly local garage using their Sun 2500 gas analyser to make sure I was all good on emissions. It was well worth the trip. The map from Steve Walford was slightly on the rich side of stoichiometric across the range (rightly so for a power focus, no issue with that, it is normal practice), but in particular idle and the 2000-3000rpm range where the test is performed. I backed off the fueling by about 3 points, and introduced another load site just off-throttle, since holding the car at 2500rpm wasn't really registering onto the first load site, so it gave me a little more control over the fueling. I also reduced the advance a couple of degrees although I don't think in all the fiddling I did, think this was necessary.

 

Hydrocarbons are well under the 200pm; generally about 50-60. CO2 I can't remember now, but it was well clear. The issue I had was with the lambda. It was way too high, showing a lean emission. This was a bit at odds with the CO2/HC readings, and the in-exhaust sensor too, and no amount of tweaking really fixed it, short of adding fuel which then put the CO2 readings well off. So this points to a leak in the exhaust. I let the system cool down, then we blocked up the outlet and started it, and quickly checked along the length of the system... and bingo, one of the joins was blowing slightly.

 

A quick disassemble of the system (not a big job at all!), pasted it up, re-assembled, re-ran the test and bingo - lambda was back down to within the limits! Problem solved and we're good to go... no concerns now about the emissions! It is clearly quite possible to get a tuned-up, relatively long duration cam'd big valve engine through emissions AND developing good power (I'm using a 200 cell cat). I'd originally contemplated de-catting after the test but to be honest, part of me if wondering whether it's worth the bother.

Edited by brumster
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It is sort of like the PCV elimination argument here in California for post kit car smog exempt testing. The only required smog component for the SB100 exemption is a PCV valve being visible. They never even place the sniffer into the tail pipe to test CO2 or hydrocarbons. One side argues the PCV helps keep the valve train cleaner with the vapor draw back into the intake. Others argue to vent to the atmosphere reducing backpressure. I go with the first opinion, it's the least I can do to help air quality a bit. No MOT equivalent for the life of the car either. Only 500 exemptions per year are available. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

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It is sort of like the PCV elimination argument here in California for post kit car smog exempt testing. The only required smog component for the SB100 exemption is a PCV valve being visible. They never even place the sniffer into the tail pipe to test CO2 or hydrocarbons. One side argues the PCV helps keep the valve train cleaner with the vapor draw back into the intake. Others argue to vent to the atmosphere reducing backpressure. I go with the first opinion, it's the least I can do to help air quality a bit. No MOT equivalent for the life of the car either. Only 500 exemptions per year are available. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

We don't seem to have any formal requirement around crankcase ventilation for kit cars. The engine originally had one, but for this setup it's routed to a catch tank, then vented to atmosphere.

 

For our emissions test on the IVA, there are varying grades of requirements based on age of engine. My engine is actually from a written-off pre-cat Rover 416 I bought in 1999, but there is no way I can formally prove this (I did try, including forum member richby66 looking into engine numbers for me within the Rover archives, but the problem is the engine numbers aren't in any way organised/sequential with age!). If I could have proven things, I'd have been on a very basic emissions test. As it stands, since I can't prove it, I get lumped into the modern requirements of Euro IV or Euro V (I think I can prove it's <2009 since the engine was out of production by then, but to be honest, it doesn't matter, I'm meeting Euro V). I knew this at the start of the build, hence the inclusion of a cat converter/etc.

Edited by brumster
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Andy Waller and I figured out all the details for the 'T' series engines in the Superspec by decoding the engine number. See http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=24891&hl=%2Brover+%2Bengine+%2Bcodes

 

Rimmer Bros are a mine of information, check out the Rover 200/400 page at https://rimmerbros.com/content--name-MG-Rover-200-400-Vehicle-Information. Might give some clues.

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Anyone contemplating using one of these mirrors on a Zero, take my advice, don't bother... they're common in all manner of car parts shops, from CBS to Halfords, and despite being "IVA OK", in our application, they are not. The mounting stubs are very flimsy plastic, presumably to reduce costs, and simply cannot support the weight of the mirror without allowing it to vibrate with the engine running.

 

Re-test went great right up until the point where I had to run out to a local scrappy to find a 3rd alternative to the one I fitted, and the one I took along as a backup. I managed to find a metallic mounting peg but in trying to push the mirror on, had no luck and end up cracking the mirror. My day in pictures follows. I'm now fed up.

 

VL5E2H5u0AiiWnUJOwCqeL7O-BZuEwLUuoiWonltYmItton5CIKUWkWtnxjJYAk7FnMIK7PjvuNecfjs

 

Metal yes; *bleep*ty crappy plastic no...

 

GmZ7-HKnoNAVmK0BLVXKa0njKFlZoHIDXSOT0ayv

 

Where it belongs...

 

MZC1OwBreEf5lj5m8epHC0OCrkmbOcG0SrC4WkSl

 

While he was at it, he decided to add another failure on. Shock absorbers to do now <groan>

 

l8BOvdIW6VAtbHu6nwcAPeDVCeIAtggKvR_CYfQS

 

I'll leave you to fill in the last one with whatever takes your fancy, as the forum filter won't let me do anything remotely close to how I'm feeling...

 

qvitTgKoY_GsjyiSHCrYlw6zgKwuYbAP46E6TBbt

Edited by brumster
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+afterthought - view from the centre mirror is not tested, you can mount it on the scuttle/may vibrate less?

 

I did think about that, but I'd had mixed reports of either view not being sufficient, or (what I think would likely be a problem for me) the mirror doesn't fit into the space between the scuttle and the windscreen. It's a backup plan. Other alternative is to fit some sort of rear bulkhead that blocks the entire view rearwards, then a mirror isn't needed :D

 

Fricking annoying. If the glass hadn't cracked I'd have been done today. The spring tops were new, but I could have put some edge trim on there no problem. The arches likewise I couldn't get edge trim around the very corners of them - it just doesn't follow the profile, it can't bend that tight - so what I'm going to have to do now is use the thin rubber edge trim that doesn't captivate (the non-reinforced stuff), and sikaflex it onto the arches. All for the sake of a ~5mm of arch corner showing at each of the 4 corners. I doubt you could get the sphere in to contact the fibreglass anyway, given the edge trim either side prevents in getting in contact. But, meh, whatever....

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