richyb66

Yes, it's the bolt at the base of the distributor. 13mm A/F in to the block. When you say reassemble, just how dismantled was it?

Check how far you need to press the clutch pedal to release the clutch. If the pedal is a long way off the floor with the clutch released, you have the option to cut and re-weld the pedal or do something with the cable. Do you know if your clutch pedal is self adjusting type. If it is, you may be able to use a cable which has a longer inner part which will drop the pedal close to the floor. Look at the cable end at the clutch arm, does it have a threaded adjustable part or is it just a nipple on the end?

Do you have the standard Sierra pedal box? Is the clutch pedal at the same level as the brake? You say you have the seat all the way back, are you very tall, over 6'? There are probably other pedal box options but none of them will be a simple fit so it's going to be best to try and make what you have work better.

The position of the wheel arch brackets relative to the hub. You need to check what the et is on your current wheels and pick the kit that is the closest match. The wheel et should be cast in to the wheel somewhere on the inside.

On the double wishbone you've got, the top ball joint is Transit track rod end and the bottom is Peugeot 309/405. Other useful part numbers are here; https://nw.rhocar.org/parts.htm I have the wishbone upgrade kit and pound for pound, it's the best money I spent on the car.

You might get a new one from Kitspares who are basically GBS, makers of the Zero. https://www.kitspares.co.uk/ Getting a good second had one could be hard. It's a big part so easy to get knocked around if it's not looked after and old stock panels that haven't been used have a plastic protective film on them that can be very difficult to remove after it's been on a few years.

Do you have any reason to suspect that the compression ratio has been raised? Can you double up the power lead to starter so you can be certain it's capable of passing enough current?

Do the main power lead to the starter and the engine earth lead look up to the job i.e. like something you'd see on a production car? Does the power lead get hot when cranking?

Dremel a groove circumferentially (first use of the word ever on the forum?) on the metal end where you want it removed. Cut a second groove from the first, longitudinally to where the end meets the cable. Keep the grooves shallow enough so they don't break in to the cable ( easier to gauge on the second groove). Use a small screwdriver in the second groove to split it open and it should break away clean without damaging the cable. I've used this method on handbrake cables and it works well.

Yes you can.

Andi is a first aider, generally when people see him, they walk injuries off.

Now sold.

I'm good to go for Tuesday this week.

No and no.

Could do, what time at yours?

Caffeine and Machine is here in case anyone wondered: Ettington. Near Stratford on Avon. CV37 7NS https://www.google.com/maps/place/Caffeine+%26+Machine/@52.1498072,-1.6299089,15z/data=!4m8!3m7!1s0x0:0x58d01a1e0aa3e94e!5m2!4m1!1i2!8m2!3d52.1498072!4d-1.6299089

Could be up for this even though it's a bit of a trek. Do we need to pre-book?

We have compiled a list of everyone attending so we cam give them a wristband on arrival. If you are coming for the whole weekend they're will be people on site from Friday afternoon so you can camp Friday night as well if you want to.

We are trying to make EOSB 2020 as safe as possible for everyone attending. This means that we need to let people know the things we are putting in place to do this and also give a reminder (not that it should be needed) on what they need to do to help us. If you going to attend, please read the following and do your best to comply. We're keen to avoid getting bogged down in rules but we have a responsibility to ensure the event is safe and we need to take it seriously. We must have an accurate record of who is attending in case we need to provide details for Track and Trace. We also want to try and avoid large numbers of people paying on the day, so we don’t need to take a lot of details and handle cash. Therefore, if you are thinking of coming, please make a booking via the online store here: https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/store/category/11-end-of-season-bash-2020/ We need a contact telephone number for one person in each family group attending. Again, this is just for Track and Trace. If you’re attending, please can you send this number either by private message to me richyb66 using the link in my profile next to this post or e-mail secretary@rhocar.org We will take people’s temperature with a contactless thermometer on entry and ask if they have any COVID symptoms. We will be providing hand sanitiser stations at various points around the event, please use them. If you want to bring your own it would be helpful. We will have toilets on site which we will be cleaning regularly, try and keep them in a useable state and when people leave on Sunday, don’t empty caravan toilets into them. There is a disposal point on site that we can use instead. If people want to wear face masks, then please do. Everyone should be aware of the social distancing rule so please try and adhere to them. To avoid having large numbers of people gathering in a single place, we have decided not to have a large marquee. Instead we will be using several smaller shelters around the site. Try not to gather in large groups seated close together. We have a band on Saturday night so avoid trying to have a conversation while they’re playing. You will need to raise your voice to do so. If necessary, move away to a quieter area. Similarly, if you feel the need to bust a few moves while the band’s on, please keep a safe distance from others. It will also help everyone else see what a great mover you are. We have several trade stands on site, please visit them and support them. Without their help we couldn’t put the event on. If there are any questions, please ask. Committee members will be around on the day in anything isn’t clear.

Parallel to 1 degree toe in. Don't know if you're getting 4 wheel alignment checked but I personally wouldn't bother. It's a kit car so something will be massively out of alignment between front and back.

Thanks for sorting this guys.

Well despite not having any of the usual events so far this year, at least we're still having the End of Season Bash in a little over a weeks time. It's been good to see that new memberships have continued to come through (including 2 from mainland Europe) and from some of the posts on the forum, I can see that some people are getting stuck in to new projects. It may be a bit earlier that the usual Winter project fever but it provides some interesting reading and a chance to share the wealth of knowledge available through the club. I know some of the new members are planning to attend the EOSB so it will be good to see you there and to everyone, a warm welcome aboard. Laurent C LAURENT COMPASSI Bourg de Péage, France Richard K RichK Shipston on Stour Dave S Davido174 Sittingbourne William B William Brown Liverpool Michael C m Chorley Caldicot Stuart P Patt Morpeth Gerhard W Gerhard Ludwigschafen, Germany Philip H Phil hunt Ashbourne Stephen B stephen bowen Leominster Rowland J No.6 Nuneaton Alan S phaeton Worksop Tracey B Jago Cambridge Thomas G Gunby1990 Bishop Auckland Kevin G Kevxathome Glasgow Stuart Y Stuart Yates Toddington Geoff W Geoff Whetton Uttoxeter Ray S raystevenson Earl Shilton

OK last chance on these parts, I want them gone. Pair Zimmeride springs. As supplied by Robin Hood. No idea of the poundage but they're green, 200mm long and around 2" ID. Ideal to keep as spares. No picture, but if you need them you'll know what they look like. SPRINGS NOW SOLD Ford ECU - no idea what model (part number suggests early 2.0 Sierra) but if you're running standard EFi and the numbers match, worth having as a spare. Far too useful to go in the bin but that's where it looks like it's going. £Postage cost only. I'll send it Royal Mail Second which should be around a fiver. Sierra Rear Fog Switch. £FREE - I'll post this at my cost if someone needs a spare. I also still have a 30/34 DFTH 3A Weber Carb. These aren't that commonly used on kits so I've put it on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133508371384

Spotted these on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Sierra-Cosworth-Scorpio-0-5-DEG-Negative-Camber-Correction-Plates-AL0087-/253556763422

Raising the suspension will reduce the camber but it looks pants if you go too high. Camber wedges are the best solution if you're happy with the ride height. I have a similar camber on mine and whilst I have thought about wedges, I've just lived with it as it is. Tyre wear is maybe a bit more that normal but in my case, I could lose far more rubber just sticking my foot down. If you're going to the EOSB in your car, we could look at it there, otherwise maybe I could pop over some time as I'm pretty local.