fry61

The "steering wheel" is the earth point for the compressor motor --- the switch is to change from " blast" ( all horns powered) & the option is "musical" -- illegal I think --- IMO

Maybe change coarse & fit a Ford KA master cylinder & reservoir -- or are you still staying with a servo set-up.

Was just a single giant grommet back in 2011 -- it was a Ford original part though -- not an after market one. Fit the grommet to the tank & with a little help from some lubrication the filler pipe just pushed in. Not seen or had any reason to doubt it's still doing its job.

There are several" Sierra fuel filler pipe seals" listed on e-bay --- it's what I used on Florin --- price seems to have gone skywards since though.

Which side you open first is only important when disconnecting a live battery ( both terminals still connected to battery ) remove negative first as it's less likely to short the spanner on wiring -- t'other way round -- disconnecting positive first has the possibility of spanner finding earthed ( negative ) metal -- generally the chassis or metal panels.

Used "camping mat" foam behind the vinyl face covering --- about 8/10 mm thick --- the cut-outs for the instruments was a few mm larger than the gauge body required -- when mounted gave a "frenched" look & also pleased the IVA examiner as it gave a softer finish. (although there were no edges sharper than the 5 mm required)

It's worse than you thought --- hard copy years ago ended up as fish & chip wrapping --- today it'll be at the bottom of the kitty litter tray.

Morning Bob, How big is your garden? Have a gazebo available for your build to continue; That's one of 3 of our Hampshire BBQ gazebos.

When we had passed IVA we went back to the " build up inspection building" in Poole for registration & payment of first taxation disc. Is there no separate inspection these days? Is it all done at IVA depot?

Looks like you done a god job of turning the rear panel top edge over onto the chassis --- took me ages of pondering & wondering before I took hammer & dolly ( 2lb lump hammer head ) to dress it over.

Have found mice at the end of a long 20 mm steel conduit run only electrocuted once they tried to crawl across the live 3 phase starter contacts. They would chew through the live cables down to copper & get away with it.

Back in the '60's I did some sparky work in Salisbury's "secret" nuclear bunkers. So "secret" that it was just a matter of asking the locals where the entrance was. Nothing like above it only went several hundred yards onto the chalk hill side. It's now a music studio.

To ad to Bob's post above --- our 2B side panels were several mm wider/taller than the distance between top/bottom chassis rails, we curved ours ( very carefully ) by making & fitting a curved spine between top/bottom rails. (This reduced the total fitting height to match the chassis & also took out the possibility of flim/flam of the panel. ) Most care needs to be taken when bringing the panel around to fit on the chassis rails in the cock-pit area, & as Bob said this is the worst part --- lots & lots of clamps required & slowly slowly does it.

The Triumph Herald back in the '60s had similar curb to curb steering.

Snap !! Just make sure you have all spanners/tools immediately to hand & the tester will be very helpful.

The side repeaters on most RH cars is due to angle of visibility --- they can't be viewed from the rear because the rear wheel arches are too high; not a lot you can do if using the RH fixed wings which are several inches above the tyre tread. Florin has her side repeaters on the side of the scuttle in cross bonnet alignment with the washer nozzles, the rear arches are mounted on the wheel bearing assembly & there is only 12mm gap between tread & mudguard. Passed IVA first time --- but that was in2011 --- things may be different now.

Must have a mighty fierce clutch to jump that high on start. Sorry no bonnet, just silly replies.

Same locks as I used on Florin --- how secure they are remains doubtful --- ordered 3 (glove box ) & two were same key fit.

A lot slower but far more traditional --- I was able to complete this run twice --- in a 1900 Steam car. Tiller steering & no brakes ( single brake band in line with exhaust steam & spent oil ) made for a very exciting trip on the original route.

Not difficult to fold up your own from metal - - Will depend on the surround shape -- curve will make for a curved & deep lip ( to be able for the main lid to be flat. Florin's boot top & locking lid are in s/steel, a picture can be found at our BBQ ( see post of 30th July 2017

Florin was almost able to keep up with a Lotus Elise in the Pyrenees in spirited driving by her owner -- just the standard Sierra brakes called a halt to my close tailing. So I guess that may fill the bill -- we also run on " Standard " all weather tyres, something that gives good grip in the wet.

A picture of Florin's "roof" & "doors can be seen at ---July30th 2017 --- our annual BBQ in Hampshire. Her boot area is from top lid to top of mudguard, full width of rear body & rear panel to panel behind seats.

Depending on build, the car can be track/ performance focused OR as we built our car " Florin" a comfortable (relatively ) cruiser. We have been all over England, Scotland & Wales. Week long trips to Spain, France, Germany, Switzerland & Italy. Your wish will be met provided the car includes at least a Surrey top ( roof ) & some sort of doors ( ours are just canvas) We ensured our car had a large boot for weeks away ( will take a full supermarket trolley) Suspension can be set to be quite soft & tall side-walls on the tyres will give a pleasant but still firm ride. At present we are doing very few miles so Florin is stuck on 52, 000 miles recorded at her last MOT in February. Fit all the bits & pieces that a normal car has & you will be pleased to motor with your wife as a happy passenger ( Why Passenger ? She will enjoy driving, if you make it possible )

Without a servo fitted to the braking system you will have plenty of room for moving the pedals forward, (will need the fire wall re-building) but it seems from your picture that there is already a few inches spare ATM. The mounting for the pedals may probably need reinforcing any way if the original brackets were used.

Leave all s/steel panels as is & clean them with scotch bright when-ever. Florin's body work is all stainless except the mild steel mud guards, she has a few dings & scraps from 52K miles ( dings were in local Waitrose car park ) But she still looks good IMO. Nothing worse than a paint/plastic (Fablon?) finish scraped through to the bare/undercoat. Your arm will drop off before you polish through the stainless.