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First thought is broken wire or loose connector. Other thought is that bosch state that sensor must be mounted at an angle but not vertically down so that condensation cannot form on the tip but drips off to the side of the tip. Recommended angle is 10 degree wire up from horizontal.

70,000+ miles as a robin hood and 105,000 miles in the doner. I understand that these were the last switches produced by ford to work without relays. From 1985 I understand that thinner wireing to the dash and relays were the way forward.

I run the original 1983 sierra switches.

Have you tried spraying with switch cleaner whilst opperating the switch to clear oxidation from the contacts. If the switch is not operated frequantly contacts oxidising will happen if there is any dampnes around. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/lubricating-and-penetrating-oil/halfords-electrical-contact-cleaner-500ml-621335.html WD40 works but will soon attract dust.

Probably just a quible but the description says it gives trickle charge not float charge. Trickle charge is old tech where the charger gives a constant low current (easy to do even 80 to 100 years ago). This needed calibrating to the installed battery manually otherwise the battery had a shortened life (letting it go flat gave an even shorter life). Float charge gives a temperature controlled constant voltage which is better for the lead acid battery. NiFe (old tech), NiCad, lithium all need thier own charging system.

Most car tyres can be fitted to either but it is worth checking with the dealer before buying. "JJ" refers to the shape of the wheel's flange (lip which holds the bead of the tire). JJ = 18.0mm high x 13.0mm wide, with a 13.0mm radius J = 17.5mm high x 13.0mm wide, with a 9.0mm radius

185 60 gives a wall height of 111mm (185*0.6) or 4.4inch so an overall diameter of 14 + 2*4.4 = 22.4 inches. 195 50 gives a wall height of 97.5mm (195*0.5) or 3.84inch with an overall diameter of 15 + 2*3.84 = 22.7 inches So just over 3% bigger diameter. 8mm tread to 3 mm tread is 10mm diameter (new to just legal) is approx. 0.4 inches diameter so similar to your change. Looking at manufactures technical data identically sized tyres have 3 to 5 mm differences in rolling radius 6 or 6.5 j will only be noticeable in very small fractions of a second on lap time. wider tyre = slightly greater air drag. I hope that this helps

NGK APR6FS works fine for me

Reversing light is not a required light. But if fitted must work either automaticaly when reverse selected and engine running or with a manual switch and warning light ( it has been a very long time since I last saw this )

The weights on the plate are not the actual weight of the car but the maximum allowable weight when fully loaded with driver passenger luggage etc. So weighing your car will not help, as the suspension is sierra based for a 2B any weight up to what ford allowed is reasonable with some consideration for the springs you have fitted. The VIN should be unique (and not the doners) and can be issued by DLVA or you could use your name and date of significant event padde out to the required length with random numbers as a lot of people have done.

Is it just me but the speedo sensor looks to be about the lowest point on the center line of the car and a bit vunerable.

The heat has to go somewhere. Normally only 2 places the radiator or the heater. Could the aircon be going full blast to drain the heat from the heater?

It would not be the first replacement thermostat that I have come accross that opened early. Have you tested in a pan of water on the stove to see what temperature it actually starts to open at. Replacement OEM stat for my Saab about 5 years ago started opening at 52 degrees which was worse than the dud one at 58 degrees. Spec reads 98 degrees

Many years ago it took 4 of us a long weekend to "build" a caterham. 150 hours if you realy take your time.

What is this meant to be ............... The stearing wheel. not a fuse. I would expect to wire a fuse between the battery positive and the relay pin 30. I am not sure what the power of the compressor is but 15A or 30A would be my guess. The old horn normally uses its mechanical mounting to be its earth (-ve) connection. I am guessing that the stared switch is to disable the air horns. I hope that this helps.

I did not want to over cool the engine. I have a pinto that is happy from about 85 to about 105 degrees where the pressure cap allows the coolant to boil. 95 is a compromise like most things are.

I have set mine to 95 degrees. It mainly comes on when stuck in traffic.

Looks like a standard swing back mirror from SVC. On a custom addition to the screen bracket.

Every water pump I have seen is an impeller type that provides little obstruction to flow when not turning so an electric pump in the bottom hose should work. The heater circuit might be a problem and need its own pump.

Check earths.

Exmo and series 3 are 2 inches wider that series 1&2. Should be posible to bend hoops to suit. Windscreen fitting is variable (little guidance to builders) and probably the biggest problem getting second hand to fit due to this.

Faulty new battery??????????

Ignition is retarded for a cold engine.

rear lights flashing with the indicators normally due to bad earth. I would check by running a single (no joints) wire all the way from the light cluster back to the battery, can be done quickly round the outside as you are checking. Fluctuating voltage could be because you are not measuring to a good earth. Electrical oddball faults (other than blown fuse) I always start by checking the earths resistance back to the battery, I have a long negative lead for my meter to do this.

Or the position of the drain plug prevents all the oil draining leaving a 0.6l puddle in the bottom of the sump. Oil change is to both get rid of combustion contamination AND replenish used additives, with a smaller volume of oil changes should be a bit more frequent. With the milage that most of our cars do an anual oil change is probably good enough even with a smaller volume.