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It would not be the first replacement thermostat that I have come accross that opened early. Have you tested in a pan of water on the stove to see what temperature it actually starts to open at. Replacement OEM stat for my Saab about 5 years ago started opening at 52 degrees which was worse than the dud one at 58 degrees. Spec reads 98 degrees

Many years ago it took 4 of us a long weekend to "build" a caterham. 150 hours if you realy take your time.

What is this meant to be ............... The stearing wheel. not a fuse. I would expect to wire a fuse between the battery positive and the relay pin 30. I am not sure what the power of the compressor is but 15A or 30A would be my guess. The old horn normally uses its mechanical mounting to be its earth (-ve) connection. I am guessing that the stared switch is to disable the air horns. I hope that this helps.

I did not want to over cool the engine. I have a pinto that is happy from about 85 to about 105 degrees where the pressure cap allows the coolant to boil. 95 is a compromise like most things are.

I have set mine to 95 degrees. It mainly comes on when stuck in traffic.

Looks like a standard swing back mirror from SVC. On a custom addition to the screen bracket.

Every water pump I have seen is an impeller type that provides little obstruction to flow when not turning so an electric pump in the bottom hose should work. The heater circuit might be a problem and need its own pump.

Check earths.

Exmo and series 3 are 2 inches wider that series 1&2. Should be posible to bend hoops to suit. Windscreen fitting is variable (little guidance to builders) and probably the biggest problem getting second hand to fit due to this.

Faulty new battery??????????

Ignition is retarded for a cold engine.

rear lights flashing with the indicators normally due to bad earth. I would check by running a single (no joints) wire all the way from the light cluster back to the battery, can be done quickly round the outside as you are checking. Fluctuating voltage could be because you are not measuring to a good earth. Electrical oddball faults (other than blown fuse) I always start by checking the earths resistance back to the battery, I have a long negative lead for my meter to do this.

Or the position of the drain plug prevents all the oil draining leaving a 0.6l puddle in the bottom of the sump. Oil change is to both get rid of combustion contamination AND replenish used additives, with a smaller volume of oil changes should be a bit more frequent. With the milage that most of our cars do an anual oil change is probably good enough even with a smaller volume.

cant remember the power hold. The temp sensor has to be 2 wire and electrically insulated from the engine block for the ESC module. The gauge sensor is one wire as it earths through the engine block. So without a load of electronics the same sensor will not work for both.

Forgot check gear selection is neutral. I must be getting old. Last car I owned with a starting handle was a morris 1000.

These days bikes do not even have a kick start. Hand brake on, chock wheels. ignition on and at full retard Hand throttle 4 notches open. insert starting handle checking that thumbs go round handle the same way as fingers ( in case of kickback) feel for start of compression and heave engine over.... rumble..rumble...rumble... Do I remember it right?

Lithium batteries are light. They are used in mobile phones and laptops because they are light. They are used in most if not all electric cars. They do not like being allowed to go completely flat or being overcharged and so require proper management systems. They are subject to thermal runaway if required to provide large currents when hot. i.e. they burst into flames, think early boeing 787 battery fires. Once on fire the fire is very hard to extinguish, water makes it worse. I think that sums up what I know

For the solenoid to pull in or hold in it requires current to flow. With the solonoid wire disconnected current should stop flowing. The fact that you see 8V at the terminal makes me think that there is a connection in the solonoid to the high current motor contacts. 2 things come to mind either some swarf has got in or there is distortion within the solonoid (it is bent) causing a short

So that I understand correctly. Starter was good before rebuild and nearly new. In the car ignition switch to start and starter turns engine over. Release ignition switch and starter keeps going. Pull wire off starter solonoid and it keeps going? This is the part that is interesting.

Try lube to the pull in linkage, WD40? You will probably need to remove the motor to do this. Of corse there is allways percussive maintenance, hit it with a big hammer

I put the strut reinforcing plates under the flying butress. Plate on top with 4 corner fasteners concentrates the load at the 4 bolts. I actually had one strut punch up through the butress, fortunately the strut stayed extended and in the hole so I did not loose control or cause further damage. My reinforcing plate is stainless for compatibility and 5mm thick extending the full width ot the butress and 6 inches long. I have since done 60000 miles with no fruther problem with the front suspension.

I have checked my car and the screen slopes at 70 degrees. Pictures to follow when I find my camera.

That looks like a door for a series 3. I have a batch2 exmo and will post a pic tomorrow. I will also measure the windscreen angle. The batch 1 and 2 exmo doors folded allong a line just under the "glass" for storage.

Could it have been a poor connection or short to one of the spark plugs? I would suspect ignition problems if fiddling with the dizzy cured it.

You might have the smoke but do you have the injector to reinsert it? Lucas prince of darkness.