IanS

cant remember the power hold. The temp sensor has to be 2 wire and electrically insulated from the engine block for the ESC module. The gauge sensor is one wire as it earths through the engine block. So without a load of electronics the same sensor will not work for both.

Forgot check gear selection is neutral. I must be getting old. Last car I owned with a starting handle was a morris 1000.

These days bikes do not even have a kick start. Hand brake on, chock wheels. ignition on and at full retard Hand throttle 4 notches open. insert starting handle checking that thumbs go round handle the same way as fingers ( in case of kickback) feel for start of compression and heave engine over.... rumble..rumble...rumble... Do I remember it right?

Lithium batteries are light. They are used in mobile phones and laptops because they are light. They are used in most if not all electric cars. They do not like being allowed to go completely flat or being overcharged and so require proper management systems. They are subject to thermal runaway if required to provide large currents when hot. i.e. they burst into flames, think early boeing 787 battery fires. Once on fire the fire is very hard to extinguish, water makes it worse. I think that sums up what I know

For the solenoid to pull in or hold in it requires current to flow. With the solonoid wire disconnected current should stop flowing. The fact that you see 8V at the terminal makes me think that there is a connection in the solonoid to the high current motor contacts. 2 things come to mind either some swarf has got in or there is distortion within the solonoid (it is bent) causing a short

So that I understand correctly. Starter was good before rebuild and nearly new. In the car ignition switch to start and starter turns engine over. Release ignition switch and starter keeps going. Pull wire off starter solonoid and it keeps going? This is the part that is interesting.

Try lube to the pull in linkage, WD40? You will probably need to remove the motor to do this. Of corse there is allways percussive maintenance, hit it with a big hammer

I put the strut reinforcing plates under the flying butress. Plate on top with 4 corner fasteners concentrates the load at the 4 bolts. I actually had one strut punch up through the butress, fortunately the strut stayed extended and in the hole so I did not loose control or cause further damage. My reinforcing plate is stainless for compatibility and 5mm thick extending the full width ot the butress and 6 inches long. I have since done 60000 miles with no fruther problem with the front suspension.

I have checked my car and the screen slopes at 70 degrees. Pictures to follow when I find my camera.

That looks like a door for a series 3. I have a batch2 exmo and will post a pic tomorrow. I will also measure the windscreen angle. The batch 1 and 2 exmo doors folded allong a line just under the "glass" for storage.

Could it have been a poor connection or short to one of the spark plugs? I would suspect ignition problems if fiddling with the dizzy cured it.

You might have the smoke but do you have the injector to reinsert it? Lucas prince of darkness.

miss typed I should have said without the roll over bar.

As brumster said exmo was produced in 96/97. There were 3 batches produced each batch was about 120 cars, mine was one of the second batch. I have no information as to how many got finished, but would guess that between half and 3/4s got on the road. Robin hood then produced the series 3 which was designed to more easily get through the SVA mainly by having fewer exposed sharp edges. It was posible to retain the doner sierra registration and only change the manufacturer and type in those days here in the UK, this is what I did so I have a legal 1983 registered robin hood built over the winter of 1996/97. I then had a normal UK MOT, taxed and insured the car and was on the road. I do know of at least 2 that were built with the 3.5L rover V8 which was a very tight fit. I also know of at least one built with the optional rollover bar, this is not very strong and came with few fitting instructions so is probably not very effective. If you have further questions I will try to reply Ian

Herald front setup was common in kit cars several years ago. I understand that most Herald parts are still available.

It is a good thing that we do not have to meet London taxi rules. They have to be able to use the roundabout at the Savoy Hotel which is responsible for the 25 foot turning circle rule. Must be able to turn between curbs 25 feet appart without touching them.

According to ford for a 2l pinto. Top and centre gap is 15 to 25 thou. Bottom 16 to 55 thou. Cautionary tale, check that the pistons are all the same last time I got pistons 2 were high compression and 2 low compression, I only noticed after fitting and found 2 pistons were near level with the top of the block at TDC and 2 were well below deck hight, I was not pleased.

There is a maximum price for an MOT

Your car should be 7.62 meters (25 feet) from the wall. If you want to be pedantic the headlight lens is 7.62 meters from the wall and the floor is flat under the car and all the way to the wall. There is a breakpoint for each headlight, so if they are 800mm apart then each breakpoint will be 400mm from the car center line. I hope that this helps.

It is a long time since I did any of this but I do not recall ever doing more then blowing it out to clear muck without removing.

The primary progression channel should (35) have a petrol/air mixture in itwhen the throttle butterfly is nearly closed. This is sucked through by the vaccume under the butterfly. The diagram shows this as white air bubbles in black petrol. So yes check the calibrated bush.

Bob is right for the pinto as built by ford. But with higher lift cams and skimmed head non interference is not guaranteed.

Car Builder solutions Universal Steering Rack Gaiter Black. This fits.

The exmo production run finished before IVA came in, all I had to do was get a MOT.

Looking at those pics the pipe run appears a bit convoluted. Do I see right the hose from the thermostat housing is going to the bottom of the radiator and the hose from the top of the radiator going round the front of the rad and presumably to the engine bottom connection. This would put the radiator into reverse flow with all the flow stagnation problems this gives in the radiator. Normally you would run the thermostat outlet into the top of the radiator to work with thermocycle of the coolant rather than against it. With this run i would expect it to be hard to bleed all the air from the system. With the lack of room is it possible to mount a fan in front of tha radiator pushing air into the radiator?