All Activity

There’s definitely one on the outside of the body that seals to the block, don’t think there is anything internally.

I'm pretty sure that there's an O ring at the bottom of the dizzy to seal it into the block, but I can't remember there being any seals inside. It's a few years since I had a pinto dizzy apart and I'm working from memory - which is not as good as it used to was. I'll have a look through my collection of useless information and see if I can find anything else out for you. Steve

All being well I'll be there, probably coming across the M6 then A14 as the A50 has roadworks.

Who is turning up for this one ? Anyone fancy meeting on route and arriving in convoy ?

Hi Dean, Glad to have found your post even if it is from 10 yeas ago... and what do you know my Pinto has an oil leak around the distributor!! Did you ever get to the bottom of that leak? I'm convinced that oil is working its way up the dizzy drive shaft into the base of the dizzy and coming out the holes in the base. I can feel the oil there after a run and of course the oil pools on the ledge where the dizzy locates in the block. Does the dizzy have an internal oil seal / O ring that might have failed? Yours Kevin

Has there been a good turnout for these meetings? I haven't been able to make one yet. Any problems parking. I hear it can get tricky at weekends? I may be able to make it this Sunday.

This is the RH supplied Rover column light switch if it matches yours? When you’ve checked all the fuses for the lights are ok, then check the wiring at this switch. No loom connector was supplied so you had to use small female connectors to wire directly to the exposed pins on the switch base. Mine were not very secure and on occasions came off or moved and touched each other. There are 2 groups of pins. On my car they were wired as follows: 3 pins for 12v power from flasher relay, to left & right indicators 6 pins for lights: 1: 12v for sides 2: to main beam 3: to sidelights 4 & 6: 12v for headlights 5: to dip beam Check yours are all intact.

Over the last few years AndyW and I have collected a raft of information about the Superspec ranging from a detailed wiring diagram to a list of spare parts, a description of the MEMS ECU, servicing manuals and lots more, mainly concerning the Rover T16 engine. I’ve zipped them as a single file and attached it to this message. Hope Superspec owners find it useful, and if you have any other documents of information you might think is useful then send it to me and I will incorporate it in the package. Rover.zip

It’s on the column but not sure if original as I have a spare column set in a box that may have been the real original. Looks like a rover one though

In common uk wiring and the original part Ford loom supplied with the Superspec, blue/red is used for dipped beam, and blue/white for main beam, between the switch and the bulbs. But you said your front and rear side lights weren’t working. Those are a separate circuit to the headlights. They should be a solid colour red wire feeding all of those and the instrument illumination. Are you still using the original Rover column stalk switch for lighting?

There’s nothing straightforward about the electrics in this car… I tracked a blue/red labelled dipped which I tested had 12v on main beam and 0 at dipped and sure enough seems to control main beam. i tracked a blue/white labelled main which had 0v on main or dipped settings. I presume the labels are incorrect and the blue/white is meant to be dipped and is the failing one. Looks wired up correctly so maybe a stalk issue

It has the coil pack. Been watching you tube tube video of simple conversion to carbs, going to do that I think.

Logically to get it to run you don't need any ignition barrel, keys or dash cluster, but you do need an ECU & probably a bit more of a harness. Do you have the coil packs? ME221 would probably do, there are some Arduino based ECU's around, just depends on youe skill levels

When the fuse blows the little LED on top lights up. I assume they are wired in parallel so that the amps normally go through the fuse (zero ohms), but when that goes open circuit the current flows through the LED. Clever stuff

And the light when they are working or when they are not?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000231422339.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!1.69!1.69!!!!!%40!10000000938447043!ppc!!!&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en4000231422339&ds_e_product_merchant_id=107680871&ds_e_product_country=GB&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=17859500389&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17190468917&gclid=Cj0KCQjw953DBhCyARIsANhIZoavQpcJaHt-9DbT639LUb6NhQp1w5T0pe-q5te-252FZ4YVETQoEl0aAgRyEALw_wcB Comes in packs of 10. Select fuse Amps to suit.

If your car still has the original RH wiring loom, the side lights were all powered by a permanent live from the light stalk, which went to a 10a fuse and then out to all lights through red wires. Hopefully straight forward to track down.

That's clever where did you get those from?

Probably just a fuse as the headlights are on a different fuse to the rest of the lights. Don't ask me which one though I actually replaced many of my fuses with the ones that light up when they fail. Makes tracking them down much easier.

Well she failed her MOT very quickly today. So quickly in fact that I didn’t get charged thankfully. Headlights come on but no sidelights and no rear lights. Fogs work, indicators work, main beam works, no side or rear.

We don't want to waste this glorious driving weather so the East of Englan team were out and about again today. We went to Sywell Airfield, which has the advantage of a large car park and a great view over the airfield while having a picnic. It's also a good run for alll of us with journey times between 40 mins and 1:20 hrs. We parked in our usual place in front of 2 other classics (a Hunter and a Jetsream for non-aircraft spotters) and watched all the activity, inclusing 2 spitfires and a Mustang giving joy rides, a microlight and lots of small aircaft. Great day. Not as windy as it looks, those trees have grown like that

I've been offered an ST170 engine with throttle bodies and their loom. The seller doesn't have the ECU, he has no other loom pieces so no ECU connector, no ignition barrel, no keys and no Dash Cluster. So my question is as a bare minimum what do I need to have to get it to run ? Not looking to spend a fortune at this stage, the seller bought it as a runner but of course he'd say that Thanks, Karl.

Of course we care, but we also have to be realistic. We have a limited amount of space on our host server and at present we are already hosting 20,576 pictures dating back to 2003, so we have to limit the size for each post and image. So all we ask is that you are sensible. If you pre-shrink your picture to a reasonable size to display then you can post more pictures without any change in the display. For example a raw picture from my iPhone is 4000 px by 2000 px. The maximum we allow is 1200 px by 1200 px so you cannot post it as it stands. But if I shrink it to 20% it is only 800 px by 400px yet still displays perfectly on the screen. We also limit the overall size of the post, and unfortunately as you are not a member you will be severely limited as to the number of pictures you can post as well. Members have a much more generous allowance and can post almost as many as they like. There are many free programs available to do this shrinking (technically called ‘resizing’) operation, personally I use paint.net. Hope that helps. Al (Webmaster)

I can see why this forum is declining. Sorry to ask, but did the originator of this forum pass on? I'm way over the Atlantic with this Robinhood car, sure draws attention at the right locations. I'm planning to get as many stickers along historic Route 66 and stickerbomb under the trunk lid. Am I limited on website space, and need to share via a photo-hosting site? If anyone cares?

Only just long enough, but they have held for 17 years.