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If it was me I would have kicked that cup of tea over within seconds of putting it down There is a good chance that the engine had it's compression reduced in some way - head spacer, thicker head gasket or similar when the supercharger was fitted. If so you would really need to put it back to standard if you removed the supercharger. I would imagine it would be easy to re-map the ecu but I don't know enough to help there - hopefully someone else can give you some info. on that. It might be worth explaining exactly what problems you're having with it and seeing if anybody knows of any easy fixes ............. if there ever are such things.

Hi new member here although i was a member s few years ago in hoping i can get sone advice I recently bought myself another robin hood its fitted with a 2 litre zetec which has a supercharger fitted im having a lot of trouble tuning it its fitted with a microsquirt ecu is it a simple enoigh job to remove the supercharger and remap the microsquirt ? And use it as an efi ?

Hi new member here although i was a member s few years ago in hoping i can get sone advice I recently bought myself another robin hood its fitted with a 2 litre zetec which has a supercharger fitted im having a lot of trouble tuning it its fitted with a microsquirt ecu is it a simple enoigh job to remove the supercharger and remap the microsquirt ? And use it as an efi ?

Good reminder. I’ll bring some stickers and flyers.

Just had a look myself and think I'm in the same boat as Jim - I'd have to go past Kimbolton to the meeting point. Not only that but I've got 120+ miles and a good couple of hours drive so it won't take much of a hold up to spoil my timekeeping - I'll see you there (I hope). Are you planning on taking anything club-wise Al ? I've got a folding table that I "acquired" and may be quite useful which I'll stick in boot.

Actually looking at it I would have to drive through Kimbolton to get to there so I will just meet you at the show, looking at everything it looks like a mega event and the weather is perfect ! Would be a real shame to only have a few cars turn out, surely we have more members within driving distance that can make this one ???? If you have never been to an event please make this your first and come and say HI YA !

Alan happy to meet up at 10:00am but need a bit more detail on the exact location ?

This is where we are going to meet, at 10:00. Just North of the intersection on the B661.

Sorry Jim, missed your post. Andy and I meet up a couple of miles from KimBolton. I’ll post details tomorrow when I can access my laptop.

Do you have any positive crank pressure, not had a Pinto for a very long time, but used to run a pipe from the crankcase breather back into the manifold that reduced the pressure & helped stop any leaks.

There’s definitely one on the outside of the body that seals to the block, don’t think there is anything internally.

I'm pretty sure that there's an O ring at the bottom of the dizzy to seal it into the block, but I can't remember there being any seals inside. It's a few years since I had a pinto dizzy apart and I'm working from memory - which is not as good as it used to was. I'll have a look through my collection of useless information and see if I can find anything else out for you. Steve

All being well I'll be there, probably coming across the M6 then A14 as the A50 has roadworks.

Who is turning up for this one ? Anyone fancy meeting on route and arriving in convoy ?

Hi Dean, Glad to have found your post even if it is from 10 yeas ago... and what do you know my Pinto has an oil leak around the distributor!! Did you ever get to the bottom of that leak? I'm convinced that oil is working its way up the dizzy drive shaft into the base of the dizzy and coming out the holes in the base. I can feel the oil there after a run and of course the oil pools on the ledge where the dizzy locates in the block. Does the dizzy have an internal oil seal / O ring that might have failed? Yours Kevin

Has there been a good turnout for these meetings? I haven't been able to make one yet. Any problems parking. I hear it can get tricky at weekends? I may be able to make it this Sunday.

This is the RH supplied Rover column light switch if it matches yours? When you’ve checked all the fuses for the lights are ok, then check the wiring at this switch. No loom connector was supplied so you had to use small female connectors to wire directly to the exposed pins on the switch base. Mine were not very secure and on occasions came off or moved and touched each other. There are 2 groups of pins. On my car they were wired as follows: 3 pins for 12v power from flasher relay, to left & right indicators 6 pins for lights: 1: 12v for sides 2: to main beam 3: to sidelights 4 & 6: 12v for headlights 5: to dip beam Check yours are all intact.

Over the last few years AndyW and I have collected a raft of information about the Superspec ranging from a detailed wiring diagram to a list of spare parts, a description of the MEMS ECU, servicing manuals and lots more, mainly concerning the Rover T16 engine. I’ve zipped them as a single file and attached it to this message. Hope Superspec owners find it useful, and if you have any other documents of information you might think is useful then send it to me and I will incorporate it in the package. Rover.zip

It’s on the column but not sure if original as I have a spare column set in a box that may have been the real original. Looks like a rover one though

In common uk wiring and the original part Ford loom supplied with the Superspec, blue/red is used for dipped beam, and blue/white for main beam, between the switch and the bulbs. But you said your front and rear side lights weren’t working. Those are a separate circuit to the headlights. They should be a solid colour red wire feeding all of those and the instrument illumination. Are you still using the original Rover column stalk switch for lighting?

There’s nothing straightforward about the electrics in this car… I tracked a blue/red labelled dipped which I tested had 12v on main beam and 0 at dipped and sure enough seems to control main beam. i tracked a blue/white labelled main which had 0v on main or dipped settings. I presume the labels are incorrect and the blue/white is meant to be dipped and is the failing one. Looks wired up correctly so maybe a stalk issue

It has the coil pack. Been watching you tube tube video of simple conversion to carbs, going to do that I think.

Logically to get it to run you don't need any ignition barrel, keys or dash cluster, but you do need an ECU & probably a bit more of a harness. Do you have the coil packs? ME221 would probably do, there are some Arduino based ECU's around, just depends on youe skill levels

When the fuse blows the little LED on top lights up. I assume they are wired in parallel so that the amps normally go through the fuse (zero ohms), but when that goes open circuit the current flows through the LED. Clever stuff

And the light when they are working or when they are not?