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K-Series Gbs Zero


brumster
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Dan you are a glutton for punishment. Openscad??? I lasted 10 mins before I deleted my copy

 

<laughs> ! Ha, I quite like it! Maybe it's the IT nerd in me, but for simple geometry I can relate to it quite quickly. I honestly tried Blender and I sat staring at it for 10 minutes thinking "Where the *bleep* do I start?". Watched a few YouTube tutorials and it was just painful. I'd really love to continue using DelCam Powershape - beautiful to use - but mucho moola for any use beyond just trialing it :(

 

What do you use then sir?

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Did a bit more last night - enthusiasm is increasing now there's light at the end of the tunnel :)

 

Bent the indicators back straight and then ran some cable mounts on the inside of the bonnet to run the wiring back up to the main loom. Hot-glued these on while I was at it, to make sure they stay on...

 

IMG_20150512_131000%2B%2528576x1024%2529.jpg

 

I designed up the heater inlet duct at the weekend, which looks like this...

 

view1.png

 

The idea is this will sit over the heater matrix on the bulkhead, taking air from the bonnet top just before the windscreen. RichardL has already proven the concept so I've got some belief that it'll work now - it will seal up to the bonnet with some rubber edging, and then I'll fit a small slot vent on the bonnet to allow air to be drawn in. Not sure whether to forward-face it for a scoop effect, or whether that might be a had idea and better to have the scoop facing back to the screen - it's low pressure there but I'm not sure I need a ram-air effect scooping air in and blowing it into the cabin all the time!

 

Anyway, I did a quick trial print of the profile as this will be a big print job... glad I did, as it's too short on the flange that fits to the heater matrix. So a quick revision of the design to add 10mm in there and we're all good. Will print it tomorrow, maybe...

 

IMG_20150512_131033%2B%2528576x1024%2529.jpgIMG_20150512_131109%2B%2528576x1024%2529.jpg

 

Other than that, just some little jobs running the side repeater wires through the wing brackets and along the suspension top arms into the bonnet area, to link up with the loom...

 

IMG_20150512_173034%2B%25281024x576%2529.jpgIMG_20150512_173043%2B%25281024x576%2529.jpgIMG_20150512_173102%2B%25281024x576%2529.jpg

 

Obviously paying careful attention that they don't chafe or interfere with any moving components or suspension on full bump or droop, and being careful to run them through the bodywork so that they don't get sliced in two by the side panels! I also nipped up the front brake lines while I was at it, so they keep themselves clear during steering movement.

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Progress this weekend was lots of little jobs - the 3D printed heater duct when into place and only needed some minor filing/cutting to clear the centre rivet underneath the scuttle top, so all in all very happy with it. The grommets are just filling access holes needed to screw it onto the heater matrix. There's also a hole in the bottom centre of it to act as a water drain :)

 

IMG_20150517_130500%2B%25281024x576%2529.jpgIMG_20150517_130507%2B%25281024x576%2529.jpg

 

I knocked up a little bracket to hold the expansion tank under the nosecone; lots of room here so seemed sensible to use it. Got it up as high as it can go, so it's above the radiator and cylinder head.

 

IMG_20150515_170246%2B%25281024x576%2529.jpg

 

I then spent most of the day trimming various bits of silicone hose, joiners and so forth to run all the coolant plumbing to where it needs to go. The long run from the head to the radiator I did with a length of alloy rather than rubber, but otherwise it's nothing special or difficult, just piecing together lots of bits of rubber! I think the main lessions here are to make sure the header tank us up high enough to make bleeding practical, don't overtighten the jubilee clips and the rest is specific to the K-Series really so probably not much use to anyone else...

 

IMG_20150517_200856%2B%2528576x1024%2529.jpg

 

We're almost close to having it driveable now, if I had a clutch and throttle, so I decided to make a start on the pedal box cover. I got the clutch cable plumbed in and made up a similar arrange that I had in the Exmo, with a gentle return spring on the pedal to just take up the few mm of slack in the cable/mechanism/release bearing.

 

IMG_20150517_200958%2B%2528576x1024%2529.jpg

 

The pedal box is pretty straightforward, although I did need to rebend one of the back flanges in order for the holes on the right-hand side to line up with the throttle pedal pivot. I'm not entirely sure how the throttle pedal is envisaged to pivot - all I have is the pedal, no bushes or anything, but I assume it's not meant to just sit on a 10mm bolt - so I've order some 10mm sleeving/tube which I can cut to length and have it sit on. I've got it just positioned here on a bolt and it doesn't move freely, as you'd expect, so I've come to a stop there until the tube arrives. I cut the lid out to accomodate the Transit reservoir, and did a little bit of faffing with blocking off an unused outlet on the header tank, but I'm not going to bolt it up properly now until I've got it all "dry-assembled", so to speak, and tested that it works to my satisfaction and I'm happy with the pedal positioning.

 

IMG_20150517_201021%2B%25281024x576%2529.jpg

 

Clamped up the exhaust properly and wow, this thing is going to be lovely and quiet, I've got no worries about IVA noise test now, it must be said :) !!

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A little tip for you on brake flexi pipes.

On the front brakes, if you fit a copper or zinc pipe into your brake caliper and take that to a home made bracket fixed to your steering upright, you will find very little movement in the flexi when steering. This is because you are now swivelling the flexi around a near central axis lessening the travel of the pipe around a larger circumference. Or even pcd.

This allows much shorter flexi pipes and removes any chance of chaffing on other fixed parts or steering arms.

If you can take a look at a Triumph Herald / Spitfire derived chassis at shows, this is a perfect example where the steering lock is so great.

Edited by 2b cruising
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Dan, those cable tie bases, they were one of my fail points. No they may be happy with them as you have used hot glue to stick them in place, I had used the sticcky pads that came with them. The solutions agreed for mine was to either rivet them in place or to just cable tie all the way around the cross member I had used them on, so I did the latter.

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You mean the nosecone ones? Hmmm... I'll have a think.... might take a punt on them as they are... like you say, the hot glue has really stuck them on :) you wouldn't get them off with your bare fingers without taking a layer of GRP with them!

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I'll be sorry to see this thread come to an end........its a great build resulting from a lot of skill, experience and attention to detail!

 

Aww kind words, not sure they're fully deserved though! Don't worry - there will be winter upgrades to report on at the end of the year :)

- Cylinder head/cams to up it to 170/180bhp

- Billet flywheel

- 3J plate diff

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You mean the nosecone ones? Hmmm... I'll have a think.... might take a punt on them as they are... like you say, the hot glue has really stuck them on :) you wouldn't get them off with your bare fingers without taking a layer of GRP with them!

 

Yeh the ones in the nose cone. I'd be tempted to take a punt on them as well. Just make sure the cable is covered in convoluted tube and they'll probably let it slide anyway.

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Sounds good to me :)

Out of interest, why the 3J diff and not a quaffe ATB? Only reason I ask is it's something I'm looking into myself by not had a lot of experience with diffs.......

 

Just personal preference really; I prefer the way plate diffs drive - instantaneous and configurable. Granted there's plate wear but this won't be a high miler car so I can live with that. I also, err... "got a deal"... mate knows the owner :)

 

Yeh the ones in the nose cone. I'd be tempted to take a punt on them as well. Just make sure the cable is covered in convoluted tube and they'll probably let it slide anyway.

 

I can do that, yup, not a bad suggestion. It's all heatshrinked at the moment anyway but I can chuck some tubing over it.

Edited by brumster
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Dan, those cable tie bases, they were one of my fail points. No they may be happy with them as you have used hot glue to stick them in place, I had used the sticcky pads that came with them. The solutions agreed for mine was to either rivet them in place or to just cable tie all the way around the cross member I had used them on, so I did the latter.

 

Dan

 

On my IVA i got picked up as well they classed them as a none permanent fixing in the wheel arch. The IVA man suggested sticking them on with Silkaflex! I did, and it passed.

 

Also had to have the cables in convoluted tubing.

Edited by Thrashed
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