richyb66

I removed the plough tube and all the original engine mounts. Nothing bad has happened yet.

Good on Neil for helping out, even if the journalist got the main facts wrong. Thank heavens he's not reporting on anything vital.

What Nick said. Swap to the other side.

I have been contacted by Alan who built this S7 back in 1994. He has found some photographs taken during the original build and would be happy to pass them on to the current owner. If this is you and you can message me to prove it, I'll pass your details on to Alan.

Blue Point 26 piece 1/2" drive service socket set. Hardly any use so as new condition, a nice set but not really needed. £75 no offers. Collect from Tamworth or I'll post for £12.

Can I take mine in and rev the nuts off it?

January was a busy month for renewals (not that I was doing the memberships then) and although I don't normally list the renewals, you managed to sneak in anyway. It's difficult to see who isn't on the map and I do try to remind people that it's there especially since GDPR regs have prevented us from sending out local members details in the members packs. I see interaction between local members as crucial to the survival of the club and hopefully once we are able to meet more freely, we will see more of it.

November already, soon be Christmas although I've got a feeling the next 4 weeks are going to drag. October has been a manic month for me so I've hardly been on the forum and when I have, I've not been able to read through the threads as thoroughly as I normally do. Hopefully people are still getting a good response to any questions and it's nice to see people sharing their builds / modifications with everyone. I think it's especially useful at the moment to have things to keep us all interested when the opportunities to actually get out in our cars are so limited. Once again welcome to the following new members who joined on October and remember to try and post your approximate location on the Members Map, it will be useful to see who else is nearby when we finally get the chance to meet more freely. Andrew A Andrew Arcaro Daltry Thomas W Y Decwin Cymraeg Cardiff Chris S Chris Scott Sittingbourne Perry C Perry Brading Simon A Si1911 Stockton on Tees Paul E Pellis Bury Richard L Misternomer Maidstone Christopher G cgilbert8 Wirral Barry B Bigboybazza Lancing

Use plastic or aluminium to make a duct that goes around the 4 sides of the radiator and extends forwards as close as you can get them to the opening in the nosecone. This should significantly reduce the air spillage around the rad. This is mine, standard Cortina Coolman rad, 4.6 RV8 - no cooling issues. Most rads are capable of doing the job, the ones that don't generally have poor airflow management through them. That thermostat housing looks like it's just for the fan switch. Carbuilder Solutions will do something neater.

Nice job that, looks good.

Yes they do but they're not cheap https://www.powerflexsuspensionbushes.co.uk/powerflex-front-outer-track-control-arm-bush-ford-sierra-inc-sapphire-non-cosworth--pff19-101-112785-p.asp

Try and make a tool with 4 pegs on it to unscrew the joint as they can be very tight. You can use some exhaust tube and cut it down to leave the 4 pegs to engage in the slots in the joint. Add a locking tab to stop the new joint coming unscrewed, you can see more details here half way down the page: https://nw.rhocar.org/parts.htm

I though it was only copper rads that needed to use old (glycol based) antifreeze. Newer antifreeze is OAT (Organis Acid Technology). Glycol is normally blue and OAT is red / pink. That said I'm using OAT in a copper rad and it's been OK for the last 10k miles.

I think I'm missing something here. If you have new and old pistons, old pin and old rod then they should have everything there to measure. Also presumably the new piston came with a pin? All the pins rotate in the piston ,Pinto pins are a press fit into the rod whereas the Cosworth rod would have a rotating (floating ) pin and hence needs retaining with circlips to stop it moving sidewards and touching the bore. Assuming the current pistons are 2.8 V6 and you're using Cosworth rods they what is the issue with fitment? The Cosworth rod is wider at the small end that the 2.8 rod so it needs to be narrowed to prevent the side of the rod potentially contacting the piston. However if the rod already had a 2.8 piston on it, it should have already been done.

You probably just have + .060" pistons. The circlip groove is neither here nor there because they can be added easily. If you still struggle, let me know and I can put you in touch with someone but the would probably need to have the piston and rod to measure to ensure the piston size is correct and then machine the required grooves.

Clipped to the inside of the tunnel is fine. The problem area is where it needs to pass the vertical chassis tubes in the gearbox area but if you bend the pipe carefully so it follows the contour of the tubes, it is possible. IVA only requires "adequate" clipping which is pretty meaningless but if you can get clips every 150 to 200mm it should be fine. Remember to take photos, it will be hidden from inspection at the IVA test so photos you can present on the day might be useful.

September has come and gone and we've had just one club organised event for the whole kit car season. The End of Season Bash earlier in September very nearly didn't go ahead due to COVID regulations but we just managed to scrape in the weekend before the rule of six came in to force. I hope that everyone who attended enjoyed it and with a bit of luck, maybe we'll actually see more events next year and will get to meet some of our newer members face to face. Until then, it's just a verbal welcome to the following new members who joined in September. David H David Horabin Widnes Scott MacN Scott MacNab Porthlethen Jeremy M Jeremy Northampton Yves K yves-lemans Le Mans France Rick T Ricktate St Annes Chris C Norfolk chris Norwich Mike D Miked5 Barnard Castle Chris E Chris Eggleton Basildon Jay W Jay Waterhouse Solihull Tony P Tony007 Doncaster Gordon M rdeagle1029 Blackpool Francis C Francis Castelli Norwich Ian C Ian Craster Middlesborough

Looking forward to following this. Norfolk seems to be a bit of a hot spot for new members so I think there will be a bit of local interest in this as well.

Please put a price, thanks.

I'm very saddened to have to post this but I've just been informed that John Ball, Derby and Notts Area Secretary has passed away. As soon as we have any more details we will let you know. Obviously our thought's are with John's family and friends at this difficult time.

Hi Laurent, Apart from the factory supplied wet weather gear (the full vinyl roof and doors), I'm not aware I've ever seen off the shelf doors etc for any of the Robin Hood cars or even drawings for the parts that someone have made themselves. I have made quite a few Surrey tops and doors for both Robin Hoods and also GBS Zero and from my experience, no two cars are exactly the same size and in fact many are slightly different between left hand side and right hand side of the car. This means that even if you make a template for say a 2B, on a different 2B you will need to adjust the sizes slightly. In this thread you can see the latest set I made for the very rare Robin Hood 'The Hood' car. The principles are similar for most tops and doors and although this is really a Surrey top (it doesn't completely cover the car), it does actually keep most of the water out when you're driving and it has the advantage that the top packs down small and can be stored on the car easily. This build included fixed wind deflectors but it's possible to make these removable and fit them to the same place as door hinges.You can see some ideas here: https://nw.rhocar.org/wind deflecters.htm The Perspex material they suggest using isn't ideal because it's acrylic and brittle, it is better to use polycarbonate which has names like Makrolon, Marlon etc. Some off the shelf weather gear is available from this place, they can probably tell you if it would fit an Exmo. I don't know the exact size differences between all the different cars so you need to check carefully if you do buy anything that it will in fact fit. https://www.softbitsshop.co.uk/

It to stick your wheel arches on to the brackets. Personally I prefer bolting them on.

Make sure the contour of the dash to the left of the steering wheel follows the shape of the vertical chassis tubes as closely as possible.

There's abut 5 other members within 10 miles of Norwich, plus one in Kings Lynn and one in Great Yarmouth so actually a few of you out that way.

Here's the pictures I promised. I'm posting them here is case it's any interest to others. The GBS wishbone handling pack https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=43_40&product_id=539&car=43 is an upgrade for 2B's that already have double wishbones on the front so NOT the sub-k version. It comprises a new upper wishbone which moves the upper ball joint positions rearwards to improve castor together with a new dummy strut with wheelarch bracket welded on and this raises the position of the upper ball joint to remove bump steer. The wishbone mounts in the same place as the original one but you will probably find the wheelarch bracket tubes are in slightly different positions so if your current arches are bolted on, you might need to make adaptor plates to pick up in the original holes in the arches. I used some 3mm ally plate and some 20mm plastic conduit clamps. Pictures below is this kit on my car. The wishbone mountings are hidden inside some black fibreglass covers I made to cover the sharp edges for IVA.