fry61

Another thought --- I have lots --- is your seat bolted to the floor so the top rail of the 'screen is above eye-line?

Used the runners from the Sierra on our Cobra seats & they are fine -- any lower & you have less room for changing leg position/angle of bend & your ankles need to flex a lot more -- spent a lot of time & patience on Florins seating /pedal arrangement so she is comfortable to drive for a few hundred mile at a go AND Sylvia being about a foot shorter can drive her, which is why the handbrake also has an extension. Each to their own, we built Florin to be & long distance cruiser; not a one man pocket rocket.

Sorry Geoff, hospital told me to-day that chemo will be extended to end of November -- would like you to re-offer the mechanical bits as available to RhoCar members once again.

The bottom ball joints on Florin were murder tight -- only got them unscrewed with a large stilson wrench. They failed because ( apparently ) they were fitted with the wishbone very hot, which also caused the very tightness you will/may need to overcome. Hopefully Richie's 4 prong exhaust tool will prove man enough for the task.

Cheers Geoff, will phone later this week, back in hospital for chemo tomorrow & pre-chemo to-day.

At least you're still getting out --- in slightly damp conditions?

Above post needs a comma or semi-colon between "isolated" & " for low current needs" on the first line. Grammar makes sense of my ramblings --- I hope.

For safety put as near the battery as possible, that will ensure all the wiring is isolated for low current needs -- battery charging via dash socket/ side lights/ clock ? / radio ? I have a by-pass of the cut off switch with a 5 amp fused line. If battery switch is open for security when parked in open over night any naughty fellow trying to start the motor will get no power once the starter motor is used.

On our Jeep, which was a water based dark green; we used the coloured polishing compound. ( T Cut ??) It disguised the near white undercoat which country lanes/hedges produced.

Never had a problem with Florin's wipers. Are the wiper spindles at 90 degrees to the 'screen & are the blades pressing hard enough on the glass? Although we have a heater & demister ducting warm air onto the 'screen our biggest problem in heavy rain is the continual misting of the inside surface; which is Mo's job to wipe clean as we go. Don't know which brand of screenwash we use but it does the job of much clearance

In tank pump as fitted by most main stream manufacturers --- Florin's is now 10 years old --- no faults --- too long ago to remember the source. Was complete with gauge sender which needed modifying.

That's a big group -- well worth going at least once -- we made it to the Classic 24 hours several years ago -- easy drive down through France & got to play on the open/ public road part of the circuit.

Just offering to buy the mechanical bits as shown in photo above --- not the complete kit.

Will buy the whole lot to future proof Florin --- but need help to get that load down to Cornwall. Any offers of Rhocar pony express.

It is possible they will only check that the tank is effectively earthed to the chassis -- suggest a dedicated wire that is not part of the loom --- don't think there is a tab on the tank -- Florin wears a s/steel strap around the tank / heavy black conductor to an earth clamp around a chassis tube ( Mains electrical clamp by Tenby ) Before installation would suggest filling tank brim full with paraffin to ensure no leaks.

No problems to date with screw terminals -- the whole fuse box/dash relay assembly is through " choc-blocks" but I guess it may be down to the screw material -- all Florin's are tinned brass & conductors are just twisted up individual strands.

Great idea --- I have a daughter leading an engineering department in telecom masts -- (other one is an accountant so not to disappointed) Both are standing in line for Florin. Many years ago Ziebart was the treatment of choice to prevent the rust bug & I suppose there are similar treatments available to-day. Are the rear arms a sealed box? Can't remember --- but if in a dry well vented garage corrosion should be very slow. An engineer will be able to make a new wish-bone assembly -- the biggest problem in the distant future of your demise will be PETROL to run your kit.

If you think the s/steel panels could do with being replaced or refitted walk away --- you will end up with a chassis FULL of holes & some will run into old ones so wont take a fixing --- every thing else should be fixable but at what cost --- you need to be happy with the build --- end to end & top to bottom if your engineer skills are not well developed. ( can be just good use of the hammer provided the blow hits true.)

I made the foot well as tight as possible to the gearbox bell housing. (probably too late for you) Also have the adjustable steering column , high set for getting in & low if on a long trip, steering wheel is as supplied by RH, 13/14" I think. Can get my foot down along side the clutch pedal O.K & I'm 6 foot. Could also move the throttle pedal to be in the space between inner edge of chassis tube & outer body panel, this would give ( maybe) the option of moving the brake & clutch pedals to the right by an 1" or so. OR go automatic !!!!

Safety critical should not be an optional extra, modify by all means BUT please leave the brakes/steering/vision/lighting to comply with Construction & Use Regs as tested at IVA. Florin is not exactly as she left the test station --- reverse/fog lights changed & driving lights added; which I consider upgrades to safe motoring. Each to their own Stuart, but we are playing on the public highway so should respect the rules.

One day the DVLA will photograph cars as presented for IVA & that will be the cars construction & use ticket. A local car ( at former home ) passed IVA without 'screen/demist/wipe & wash --- owner then fitted screen only & crashed in light rain shower on way to get tax from Post Office less then 2 miles from home. You can at present get away with this shortage of essential equipment ( in the changeable English climate ) but please don't be following me.

It was a brand new starter motor??

If you are suspecting a tight engine is it worth trying cranking with one ( or more ) plugs removed?

Odessey PB680 fitted to Florin ( 1800 CVH engine) at build --- all fine for 4 years/ 35K miles then had trouble turning the engine if engine very hot. Bought another & connected both in parallel as no faults were found on testing old one. We are now in our 9th year/ 53K & no further trouble. As per a previous post Florin is connected to a CTEX charger when sat in the garage.

Make an adaptor to move the yellow eye further away from the cable outer BUT without increasing the radius of the throttle lever. Can be bolted or welded in position, doesn't have to be a heavy weight job. Would favour a snail cable guide, which allows the inner cable to always enter the outer in line.