IanS

Is not the idle adjustment an air bypass, screw in to go rich, screw out to go weak.

Is it just me but I do not see any pics.

I have the robin hood coolman radiator. Nolonger sold by robin hood This is similar to the kitspares radiator https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=484

Mine reads 85C and I have an 85C thermostat. Electric fan comes on at 95C though a fan is not needed when doing 70.

If it is an uprated cam then the standard pullley will give the wrong cam timing. I do not know why but every uprated cam I have come across has its key in a different angular position than the standard ford cam. So I would mark and replace as marked.

My experiance is that the OAT antifreeze kills old style thermostats. Switched to the new antifreeze and the waxstat that had worked for 5 years died in a couple of months, the replacement thermostat also died in months, switched back to glycol and the new stat still working 3 years later. 1 car, 3 stats, 2 antifreezes so not an exhaustive test.

Lots of tin tops have sidesways rads. Admittedly most are a lot wider than tall so it possibaly is need for uniform heat disipation reasons.

I have 2 pumps in parallel, permanently plumbed in with non return valves. They are chinese copies. Only one switched on at a time, I periodically check that both are working after being standed several years ago, never had a fuel problem since.

I have had problems in the past with Fiat brake fittings. If I recall they are M10 x 1.25 and were unique to Fiat.

Bootlace ferrules are the normal way of doing this. They need crimping on to the wire. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/categories/cable-accessories-bootlace-ferrules One source

Hey I am quite addicted to Oxford blue even though it is the wrong university. Light blue does not suit our cars I also like the clam shell wings keeping the puddle splashes out of my lap I guess that makes me a grumpy old man

Try testing the MC by fitting blead nipples to all outlets and bleading each. If this does not work you have another duff MC. If it does work try connecting the ports one at a time and bleading untill you find the problem circuit.

I can reach in from the engine bay without any knuckle damage.

Vacuum gives more advance when on part throttle which helps economy. Main thing without it is burning a bit more petrol.

If doubling the cable dont forget to double the earth back from the starter to the battery. A pair of jump leads? Talking of jump leads have you tried connecting a second battery in parallel? Slow cranking can also be a sign of over advanced ignition.

Just checked my car. 1983 electrics and it is a 286 bulb.

Fingers crossed

I did not ask but how do you know it is overheating? The only sure way to know overheating is steam coming out as most temperature guages are inaccurate and also need a voltage regulator to work properly, without they read high. Oil runs a bit hotter than coolant and takes longer too reach a stable temperature. If it is that the water level that is dropping? Then have you got an overflow and suck back system OR a sealed system with expansion tank? You can not mix and match. I run an overflow and suck back system that has had the same coolant for the last 4 years, I do not have an sealed expansion system as I could not find a high point to put the expansion tank.

I agree it is an intermittant short. I would start by only signaling right whilst driving, if this does not blow fuse then fault on left side. Repeat only signaling left just to check if fault goes or is in common wiring part. Then try disconnecting back etc. Localise where the fault is then you have a better chance of finding it

I run a 2l pinto and have never needed an oil cooler, sump protrudes under car and gets a good blast of air. Radiator has electric fan mounted on it that sucks air through the rad with thermostatic switch in top hose. Standard thermostat fitted. Solid bonnet no louvers. Only time it overheated was when stuck in traffic and an unsupported wire shorted and the fuse for the fan blew. My fault for a quick mod to the wiring.

I was not talking about level but rotation. Look down on the car from above and work out how much to twist the engine + gearbox clockwise or counter clockwise (I do not know which engine you have so I do not know which side of the car the exhaust is on). I think that you will be suprised how little you have to twist to get the exhaust to fit. A bit of judisious use of a file to elongate the holes in the right direction should work.

Might be the angle that the engine is at?? long lever effect, a small change in angle has a big effect 8 feet rearward. You could try loosening the engine and gearbox mounts and try twisting the assembly.

Just been looking at the ford wiring diagram for 1982/3 sierras. The Italian variation only lets the rear fog lamps work with the dip headlights. The Swedish version lets it work with either dipped or main headlights. All other variations of loom let it work with the side lights on.

With no leaks I would suspect the master cylinder is passing a bit each time and not returning properly on release. 20psi resets the pistons in the MC. Has the MC been assembled without internal return springs?

See the post in the engine section