Jez Morton

Book the sunshine, ok just cancel the rain and I'm there.

Cured fast tick over on my pinto EFI, cleaned the butterfly in the throttle body with a good squirt of aerosol carb/intake cleaner. I think a build up of carbon and crud can stop it closing fully.

Well it was a very steep hill.

Not to rain on anybody's parade but when I looked at fitting a V6 box to my 2B the ratios just didn't give a big enough improvement to make it worth the effort. The first 3 gears are 8% higher and 4 and 5 are the same. Using one of the speed calc programs out there I would gain 2.5mph in first, 4.7mph in second and 6.8 in third, this is at 6k rpm with a 3.9 diff. Ratios are 3.65, 1.97, 1.37, 1.0 and 0.82 for 2.0l. Ratios are 3.36, 1.81, 1.26, 1.0 and 0.82 for V6. Going for close ratio box would be the way to go but at around a grand it's just too much money for me.

I would recommend fitting at expansion tank, none pressurised like off a Capri it's what I use. When the engine gets hot the water expands and it's vented through the over flow pipe, when the engine cools down the water will contract and if the pipe is open to air the expelled coolant is replaced with air. Having the overflow pipe go to an expansion tank will mean you draw coolant back in when the engine cools.

The original wadding, it was so tight I don't think would have absorbed any sound.

I have and sure many others too. I basically cut a letter box size hole in the side of it, would be better underneath so you can't see it. I packed it with accoustafil PTX which is used for motorbike silencers, it expands when hot to fill any voids. To cover the hole I riveted on a piece of stainless plate with a good smear of high temp silicon to seal it. I did mine after 5 years on the road and it was still full of wadding, I think it was so tightly packed in it didn't work.

Before I get my jack out, where did the plough tube bend? is it one point or did it spread? From what you guys are saying I can just jack up on the front of the tube and it will bend up.

Just looking at the pricing for this, is my maths correct for two days. Me (member ) £15 Wife (none member) £18 Daughter 8 YO free Son 10 YO £18 Total £51?

Changing the filler was the first and best mod I made after I finished my kit, first year was just horrible every time I had to fill up. I basically replaced the 90 bend with a section of 2" 90 deg curved pipe, I made a jig to hold the orignal ends and cut out the middle then fettled and welded in the curve. I can now fill at full speed with no issues at all. The second issue I had with the filler is the short piece that protudes through the flange is too short, it touches the seal on the cap but doesn't compress it. You could move the flange on the tube, I only needed a 1mm on mine so I added a piece of 1mm rubber to the seal.

Sorry Rich, apparently he's still there talking to a tree?

Could be showing 6 volt as you meter will average the voltage it measures, 12v at 50% off/on. Have you got your diodes the right way around the end with the band should go to the bulbs?

Andi comes up with typical hoodie solution to soothe the after effects of last nights extra spicy vindaloo.

I hope this fixes your issue, interested where and how much you can get master cylinder for?

Did you bleed all four corners?

Are the bleed nipples at the top?

I would bond studs to the back of the grp and fix brackets to the chassis tubes to receive the studs and bolt up. Look at Big Head (brand) bond studs for the sort of thing these are used in motorsport and by some car makers, clean off where you glue them on as any release agent from the grp will stop the glue sticking for long. www.bighead.co.uk

If the temp sender from the pinto worked can you not fit that into the zetec? Yes single wire from top of tank is the sender. The fuel gauge issue should not be related to the engine change, is the tank earthed, is there continuity from sender to gauge, is the float actually moving in the tank seen one jammed against side of tank before. Can you get the sender out to see or jack up one side of car to see if it changes?

I'm going to try and get the day off, but I do like my beauty sleep. I would say meeting at Dobbies around 10 or 11 would suit me.

161739657216 Spotted these on eBay could be a bargain for some one. Look like they could be 2B rears. I'd take a punt on them but too far for me to collect. Jez

Looks interesting always wondered what the inside of Hogwarts was like?

It's not great is it, I had the same issue. You could lower ride height but this will give too much camber, camber wedges can be fitted to reduce the problem but rear toe can then get too much. I found if the rear ride height is set to give about 1deg of camber them toe was about 0.5deg. When you lower the ride height the toe increases I think lowering an inch gave another degree of toe which I think is too much. I lowered the arches 1 tab at the back and 2 tabs at the front and remade the bends to suit. I also lowered the suspension an inch which looked spot on. However the car did bottom out so I put the suspension back up, the wheel arch move reduces the gap by 30mm and doesn't look too bad. Jez

When I built my 2B I used tetrosyl heat resisting aluminium paint, 7 years on and it still looks good. It didn't need primer just rubbed down the calipers and degreased and applied by brush.

I have no objections, the more the merrier.

Their easy enough to change as long as you can undo the hub nut and get the drive shaft out. I got it down to 40 minutes to do a side.