Bob Tucker

Sorry guys, its not my head, just a "googled" picture.

I dont think so. This is what in injection head looks like.

Check out Rally Design, they have a selection of flexible brake pipes.

Hi Nigel, sorry you have to sell, wonky knees and a dodgy back mean moving mine on will be sooner rather than later. I think I have the timing sheets from one barkstone meet, so I'll try to find and up load them.

Just some random rambling undesirable.

My friendly MOT station has closed, so I had to go to the one that does both my regular cars. I explained what the car was when I booked it, but it was obvious that he doesnt test kitcars often, if at all. So I printed the chart from the DVSA site I linked in the other post, and the front page (It looks really official now!) I let him look it over, he asked a few questions about the car I told him it was based on a 1985 Sierra. He didnt ask if the engine had been changed.! And it sailed through despite being off the road for 3 years.

Theres a chart on page 11... https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/676700/in-service-exhaust-emission-standards-for-road-vehicles-19th-edition.pdf

Well done Sherlock. That took some tracking down. Hopefully you will be able to enjoy using it in the good weather at the moment.

If you want to use it for trackdays, avoid one that has sliding pillar suspension. They have a narrower front track, and it is possible( probable) that the lower part of the pillar can jam into the wheel while cornering hard, effectively stopping the wheel turning and gouging the rim. With work they can be OK for road use. Search out a wishbone model, theres plenty out there.

My 2B came from RHE with a small used flour sack with 2kg of assorted nuts & bolts. ! I had to buy 3 more assorted metric packs from Namrick to finish the car. https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Mixed_Packs_48.html

Didnt it have an IVA or SVA test at some stage to get a Q plate?. But you have to give up the certificate to the DVLA to get it registered with a V5, so the certificate itself wont be available.

Could be the choke jamming on if it uses water temp to open/close?

Found a manual https://www.leschroniquesdegoliath.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Ford-Sierra-Service-And-Repair-Manual-GB.pdf page 170/340 section 15. Good luck....

Hi Andy, the DGAV is a good carb, and will work, although it may be a bit big for a 1.6. so you may need to change some of the jets, but it will be a big improvement over Ford's VV carb. Unfortunately, you will also need a matching manifold. The DGAV carb will not fit on a VV manifold, the bolt spacing is different. It sounds like the ignition timing is out. it needs to fire about 8-12 degrees BTDC at tickover. The flash will be irregular at tickover, so set it to a fast tickover first, to check your strobe, then reduce it. There is a deeper mark on the crank pulley for TDC. Turn the engine anti clockwise about 1/2 to 1 inch. You should see 2, 3, or4 smaller grooves. These are the timing marks probably at 8, 10 and 12 degrees BTDC. A haynes manual describes setting timing very well. You may be able to find one on line if you dont have one.

Check for air leaks anywhere in the inlet side. Gaskets can perish, but especially any rubber pipes, such as servo vacuum pipe, positive crankcase pressure vent systems, and vacuum driven ignition advance pipes between manifold and dizzy.

If this is the original V5 issued to Triumph when the donor was manufactured, surely it would have had a model specified. The fact that it doesnt suggests to me that it may be replacement issued when the S7 was first put on the road, maybe even pre SVA? I dont recall what DVLA required pre-SVA. But it seems that it was all a bit wooly. Would it automatically have been given a Q plate? Check the DVLA site for MOT or tax status using your REG no. I think it should show make and model.

This should help to ID it https://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm

If you had new tyre(s) fitted check that they have settled on the bead correctly. Ive had a tyre that balanced perfectly, but the car had an awful vibration. Close inspection showed that on the inside of the tyre one half was still in the rim recess. I also pump up my tyres to 40psi before storage hoping to stave off any flat spots. Hope it works as the cars been in the garage for 2 years. Dont ask!!!

I think you've got the wrong site here Bezza... We can help on most things, but with an Audi diesel and box your'e the pioneer.

The RHE/GBS wishbone conversion used U shaped channels right across the car to mount the wishbones. I have a conversion set that came from RS Jigtec, which had brackets that welded to the upper and lower chassis rails, as did the only other kit I know from STS, but the wishbones from both companies are a true Y shape. I dont recognise yours so I expect they were a one off by an accomplished builder. You'll need to take some careful measurements especially distance between the legs of the wishbones, and height between top and bottom wishbones, as the dummy struts will have been made in different lengths. GBS have been very helpful in the past, probably best to ask their advice and the relevant measurements from their handling kit.

This may help.. https://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm

Most of them were fitted with ford cortina radiators, which these look like. you can Google images for ford cortina rads to check if they are the same.

Result!!!!

Dont use the U shaped bracket at the back of the swinging arm. 2 reasons. 1 it was only designed to take the load from a shocker being compressed, not the weight of the rear of the car. 2. the coilovers are designed to be used in the same location as the spring, ie in the circular recess in the swinging arm. Otherwise there is more leverage from the shocker bracket meaning spring rates and shocker settings will be wrong. You just need a U shaped bracket bolted in the centre of the recess. HTH.

Sometimes a punt really does pay off. Well done.