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Showing results for 'pillar conversion'.
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Bit of big catch up on striker. Front brake lines is still an issue, but they work hoping to get all sorted after done body work. hand brake works lovely which is a bonus since that worries me a little as didn’t want to spend £400 on rear disc conversion. car runs great, keep running it up to temp and new coolant doing its job. the clutch stuck a little bit but managed to get it free by myself. So lot happier now lol as typical everything goes wrong just before it’s booked in at the body shop. the aluminium panels in cockpit are mega dirty and haven’t been looked after well. So I have given good clean, tried to get looking better. I’ll give them a good once over again after body work been finished as only get covered in dust etc. taken seats out for deep clean too. Touched up black paint on the cockpit too. Cleaned all crap out from around seats. Given it some a lot of love as been neglected from previous owners, I think. car booked in at body shop so have more of an update later on.
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incorrect toe in or castor probably. What susension, sliding pillar or wishbone?
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Hi, Hoping you can help. i have a 2B and dont like the high sitting rear arches. can anything be done to this? has anyone else got around this issue and if so how. i also have wide rear arches so a am looking for standard width ones ideally GRP ones and not stainless like the current ones if anyone has any that would fit. the car was built in 2001 with sliding pillar suspension if that makes a difference to fitment. Many thanks Tom
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Agree its a 2b sliding pillar
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Winter mods finished just waiting to get it set up on the rolling Road on the 5th Jan. Photo album of the conversion are here. https://www.amazon.co.uk/photos/share/M4DnC4AjGEeV3HeLzKVylCwJwRV6Mx5Wrm0HZ91KP97
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You can see how my conversion went in 3 back issues of the club magazine. The first issue can be downloaded here and the rest here https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/forum/59-magazine-digital-copies/
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The most desirable is the one you want lol. as a package Alan maybe right but there are that many variants. There are VXR & Zetec turbo's, V8's, Zetec Even a Nissan & Toyota engine variants out there. A lot of 2B owners may have upgraded the front suspension. and then you start again with the GBS zero can depend on the pockets and knowledge at build stage. If the budget stretches i would personally go down the Zero route as there is a massive difference. However having had a 2B sliding pillar they are all fun cars to drive and tinker with.
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So I understand there is very little information on the mark 3s and even less parts for them. I’ve only owned mine 3 months, does anyone have any information on potential front suspension upgrades? It’s the new mark 3 model with outboard coilovers! The coilovers are standard with red springs, I believe they came with the Robin kit originally? And the rears have been upgraded to gaz! Edit - I’ve recently discovered about a tie bar conversion, is this easy to do? Would anyone be selling the parts needed to do this? any help is much appreciated
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Sorry no pics, but Ive just installed a new Kitspares rad. in my 2B which has a sliding pillar chassis (ie a big X in front of the rad.) and it fits very neatly with my VX redtop engine. Maybe post some pics of yours showing what you dont like about the fit?
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Ok, a couple of interesting finds having gone out to snap these pics… 1) Driver’s side wheel arch clearance is about a finger width’s worth tighter… Having examined my photos, I just noticed that the shock on the driver’s side doesn’t have some sort of spacer at the mounting point that the passenger side does have… odd! That may have something to do with it all… 2) I’ve noticed having looked around the car properly at ground level, it is looking a touch nose down at the moment. I did the front coilovers about 3 years ago now and I wonder if they’ve generally compacted slightly and need a slight lift to get the car back to a more level position. Will play with this tomorrow… I’m still interested in a coilover conversion for the rear though!
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Hi all I’m hoping someone can point me in the direction of where I can get the correct engine mounts for my 2.0 pinto to focus st170 conversion? Thanks in advance for any reply The duratec is married to a Mazda rx8 6 speed (is there a difference in the mounts that’s needed? )
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I am struggling to get reliable info from dvla regarding date of first registration of a Beaford Kit car conversion. Here is the email I just sent them, any advise greatly accepted Thanks David Here is my post to DVLA..... ATTN KITS and REBUILDS TEAM Hello, I want to understand how some Beauford KIT CONVERTED cars can retain the date of registration on the V5 document, as the date of registration of the DONOR vehicle ( thus allowing the vehicle to be registered as VHI vehicle). But another Beauford Kit conversions the date of registration on the V5 is the date the conversion was done ( IE after 1985, as this was when Beauford started trading ). I am looking to buy a Beauford, I have seen the V5 for both vehicles, Both vehicles were converter after year 2000, yet one of them show date of registration as 2012 ( date of conversion ), but the other shows date of registration as 1980 ( Date of registration of donor vehicle). I was led to believe it is due to an application to keep the original donor registration number vs applying for an " age related registration number ". I was told… Original registration number application will result in original donor date of registration, will be on the V5 Age related registration number will result in Date of conversion, will be on the V5. But this is not possible, EVERY beauford kit includes a new CHASSIS and a new BODY, the body will ONLY fit the Beauford new chassis, The chassis on 1980's vehicles was part of the body and it would be impossible to fit a kit conversion body to the donor car chassis, therefore EVERY Beauford car cannot qualify to keep the original donor car registration number. Examples of the discrepancy in the comparison these two vehicles. Reg no: 702 BUA date of first reg in the V5 is 1980 ( IE: Same as the date of first registration of the donor vehicle ) and( registered as VHI ) Reg no: A249 SCW date of first reg in the V5 year 2000 ( IE: same as date of conversion ), yet has a registration mark that denotes first registration of 1983 Please explain Regards david Scott -
Hi am very new to this forum but have a few questions first I did the disc conversion to my car and it fits ok but cannot get the pedal to come back up and when you start the car the pedal goes to the floor. Also the brake master has four outlet's two go to the front and two go to the rear without any kind of valve in-between. When you fit these calipers on the Sierra there is a kind of balance valve you are told to do away with this and fit a straight fitting in place of it but there is no valve to start with. and lastly the stalks on the column I need to find one as the wiper side is about to brake off if its any help the flasher unit is just under the turn signal stalk. I live in the USA and nobody even knows the ford did a car called the Sierra they think it's a chevy truck.I know they did the xr4i mekur but parts are rare over here
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Good luck with the project. I can’t offer you any experience on the ST170 engine conversion but I guess you are already aware that it is a zetec derivative rather than a duratec, so the inlet/exhaust are on the opposite side to the pinto that was in your 2B originally. Depending on the throttle body arrangement you may find that the inlet manifold area interferes with the existing Sierra pedal box / master cylinder arrangement. A number of people have gone down the route of a reversed top hung pedal box (available from GBS) or a floor mounted pedal box. I’ve done the latter for an MX5 engine conversion on my 2B due to inlet clearance. Chris
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HI, I bought a 2b a few years ago during the lock down and decided to rebuild the whole thing and put a St170. Started off with a working car now I have myself a pile of parts . Purchasing a complete focus St170 I have pulled out the engine and stripped this ready for cleaning up and prepping. This will be matted unto the type 9 Gearbox all been well. So my plan is to fit a new bell housing to the type 9 allowing the use of a Hydraulic clutch system. Now the engine will be RWD I suspect a dry sump will be require to stop the chance of oil starvation? I have also looked at a Throttle body kit from Dan st which seem to have some good feedback My plan is also to turbo the engine once I've got it in place and see how much room I've got around it. I am looking for peoples options who have either done this conversion or have experience with this kind of set up. What do I need to consider while doing it? What problems am I likely to come across? Also if anyone has anything available for sale that I will require during the build. I have a work shop which specialises in landrover restoration along with a fabrication shop where we have fibre lasers and machinery so making engine mounts etc isn't a problem. I Hope there is someone out there who can steer me in the right direction and might have a few bits i need laying around
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Early 2b sliding pillar suspansion. https://kitspares.co.uk/collections/suspension/products/copy-of-robin-hood-2b-double-wishbone-handling-pack This will change your car to double wishbone type suspension, it does require some welding if I remember correctly. Ian
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Hi does anyone know what I need to convert the rear drums on the robin hood to disks and calipers thanks
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You are talking about a completely different package. This thread is about the new upper wishbone kit available for factory wishbone 2B models to correct the front castor angle for improved steering feel. Due to the different chassis on an earlier sliding pillar 2B, retro fit wishbone kits have completely different components as the pickups have to be mounted further rearward than the factory chassis, to keep the front wheels in the same place.
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A friend with a sliding pillar 2b bought the double wishbone kit and fitted it, I have photos of what needs to be cut and where the brackets go somewhere, send me your email and I’ll look them out for you.
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Quite a few have done the Landover conversion in the boot. Only need a more powerful pump for the turbo engine s. Have a look at Matt's if your at the end of season bash. Btw if you go the engine bay option. don't have your swirl pot under the exhaust headers like mine has. Put it on the other side. It boils my fuel on hot days when the fuel level is low Andi
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Never seen one of these. Brand new with instructions. Comes with cable and all fittings. Does away with the plastic quadrant adjuster in the Sierra pedal box and has the adjustable part at the bottom end by the clutch arm. The cable is SCC1010 (Ford 6066674) which is identical to this: https://www.burtonpower.com/clutch-cable-ford-cortina-mk3-mk4-1-6-2-0-sohc-pinto-to-8-79-qcc1010.html £12 can take to EOSB next month or I'll post it for £15 all in.
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Hoeray for wikipedia as at first i had no idea what you said here This one was probably built in the UK and exported as a unique car, so not the Exmo series. Sliding pillar suspension, first used in 1898 , so.... is that a good thing or a not so good thing ? ( i understand double wishbones and McPherson suspensions but never heard of this one ) If you are interested in the European mainland prices, this is the leading website for second hand (and new) cars for Belgium with quite an offering from the rest of Europe too. https://www.autoscout24.com/ Personally i use the Flemish version, but i can't get that in english, i suppose the cars listed are the same. https://www.autoscout24.be/nl/ You can do a search on Caterham, Westfield, Lotus but not on "Robin Hood" There is a workaround: simply do a google search for "autoscout24 robin hood" and you should get the listings for Robin Hoods. ( check "Country" is set to Europe. ) I also found a dealer in Holland with a nice collection, might save a bit more cash and get one of his Westfields. https://www.kitcarcollection.com/kitcarsite/
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Not only that it looks more like a 2b with sliding pillar suspension not an Exmo.
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If you want to use it for trackdays, avoid one that has sliding pillar suspension. They have a narrower front track, and it is possible( probable) that the lower part of the pillar can jam into the wheel while cornering hard, effectively stopping the wheel turning and gouging the rim. With work they can be OK for road use. Search out a wishbone model, theres plenty out there.
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My thoughts are that you could change the jets to limit overfueling but would need a rolling road to set it up. You can’t just slap on any old carb and hope it works. I would consider other carbs that have been fitted to the 1.6 Pinto first i do have Weber Carburetors by Pat Braden (HP Books) which gives standard jetting, production jetting and conversion kit jetting that has some examples 2 of which are 2.0L Capri (32/36 DFAV)and 1600 Cortina (DGAV) both using 32/36 with 26/27 chokes 1600 had 3.5 Aux Venturi F50 emulsion 1.35 main jet 1.70 air corrector 0.55 Pump jet 2.0 needle valve the difference for the 2.0L Capri was minimal with aux venturi 4.50 F6 emulsion 0.45 idle jet 0.65 Pump jet however there is another line of jets that pretty much matches the 2.0L so you may be ok but should at least check AFR if you fit it perhaps the difference was less than I expected.,,
