RallyChris

If you aren’t bothered about the colour of a replacement nose, why not just repair and paint the one you have?

I doubt it would be worth it with the Exmo being a sheet steel monocoque chassis. The later tubular chassis models can be converted to wishbone suspension as it is (relatively) easy to weld on the new brackets. Not so easy with thin stainless steel sheet!

Roger, here are a couple of photos of the RH ‘kit’ leatherette that came with our 2B from circa 2002. Overall dimensions are 75cm x 135cm, and the colour is dark grey. It looks a little wrinkled from storage but I think it will stretch out flat again quite easily. Please let me know if it might be any use to you. Chris

The new springs supplied recently by GBS with a set of Gaz coil overs for a 2B are 325lbs for the rear. Shock is 16” open, 10.5” closed fyi. The rule of thumb when setting the position of the top spring mount is that you want the shock absorber (inside the coilover) to be compressed by 1/3 of its working range at the normal ride height of the car. The remaining 2/3 travel is therefore available for bump compression. What I plan to do on my build is to make a fixed dummy shock that is 1/3 compressed length and then set the wheel up at the desired height relative to the bottom of the chassis. The top mount will then be fitted at the required height to match up to the dummy shock. If you try doing this setup with a spring in place and/or weight of the car sitting on the suspension then you could end up chasing your tail as you can’t directly control the nominal length of the shock absorber.

Roger, I have what appears to be the original roll of fabric supplied for the dash in our unbuilt 2B kit that I don’t intend to use. From memory it is just a facing leatherette fabric with no integral backing foam. Yours for a modest postage fee if you want it (or collect from near Newbury). I can send you a photo at the weekend. Chris

FYI looks like the standard Cortina radiator that came with 2B kits circa 2002.

That looks like a ball bearing, that will be capable of supporting and axial (thrust) load as well as a radial load. However you need to make sure that only the outer race is in contact with the fixed reaction point on the chassis when the nut is clamped up, or else it won't be doing anything if the end face of the inner race is also in contact with the upper spring seat washer.

What on earth are you wittering on about?

Why can't you get on a train and drive it home, as it appears to be road legal?

My email was sent to dvlavin@dvla.gov.uk Content of my email as below Include full name and address. Chris

FYI, following the recent posts on this thread last week, I sent a simple email to DVLA using the address above and today received a big brown envelope with a letter allocating the VIN number for my kit, plus a registration application form. So I can confirm the current process for the VIN is very simple and efficient!

In that case I don’t think you have anything to worry about, and with the GBS plate in place you could mount the seat directly to the floor without the additional cross pieces. On our 2B I have added a lot of structure above the floor level, so I have similar cross beams for the seat runners to sit on but they are welded in to the chassis at the sides, and to a lower longitudinal frame at the base of the tunnel. (Upside down chassis in the picture!)

I think the first question is what are the subframe bars attached to? There shouldn’t be any need to weld the seat runners to the floor, and bolts into your bars should be sufficient, as ultimately the seat belt fixings are going to be what holds you (and the seat) securely from lifting up or moving forward in the event of a rapid deceleration. The IVA inspector is going to be more interested in the security of the floor under the seat to stop the seat dropping through the floor. I’ve read numerous comments on here and other kit car forums about needing either something continuous running across the car under the seats and attached to the chassis at each side, or a structure in each side of the tunnel welded together at the centre tunnel. Chris

Can you see a separate side light fitting to the side of the reflector (I’m presuming these are old school halogen lights not leds)? If so it is possible that they are designed to earth through the body of the light so your three wires are side light, Low beam and main beam +12v feeds.

Here is a picture of my RX8 seats in the bare chassis: 4333C6D8-65CE-432B-8706-5E9F784F19FF by Chris Cholmeley, on Flickr

It is definitely possible to make RX8 seats fit into a 2B, but it is not totally straightforward as the UK cars with leather seat trim also came with electric drivers side seat and this makes the base too wide to fit. I am in the process of using RX8 seats in my 2B build, with driver and passenger sides reversed, and the base of the old drivers seat rebuilt using manual parts from a lower spec cloth RX8 seat and heigh adjuster disabled. You also have to remove the outer plastic trims from the seat bases, and probably make some modification to the seat tilt controls to make them fit against the tunnel. Chris

Any recent updates Richard?

FYI - I just bought, but have not yet fitted, this alternative Poly bush set from Duraflex - https://www.duraflexpubushes.com/ford-sierra-escort-cosworth-rear-arm-polyurethane-bush-set-69-p.asp Chris

Lewis, I have an old stock new radiator that came with our 2B kit. By the looks of the right angle connection on yours it is probably the same (cortina?). I’ll try to get you a picture later in the week in case you are interested in it as a replacement. Chris

I’m near Newbury, building up an old 2B kit with Mazda MX5 powertrain. Chris

This seems the most likely explanation, maybe a kinked or collapsed hose somewhere between the FPR and tank? As a diagnostic you could try to wire your fuel pump up directly to a (switched!) 12v source so it can run without the engine running, then listen in the engine bay for the sound of fuel flowing around the system via the return line.

The main question is whether you are going to modify the ‘chassis’ of the vehicle or not. As I understand it, Changing bolt on or bonded panels, such as a 911 style conversion kit on a Boxster should not require the car to go through an IVA test. It will still be considered a ‘kit’ car but it is not the same as a build from scratch kit where a new chassis is married with running gear and other components from one or more existing donor cars.

Here’s a link to the archived copy of Colin Usher’s website https://www.webarchive.org.uk/wayback/en/archive/20141103114552/http://www.colinusher.info/Robin Hood/index.html

I’ve got a complete mk2 Sierra 2.0 EFI servo and vacuum pipe available, it came with our part built 2B kit and has been in storage for her best part of 20 years. Send me a message for more details. Chris

There is also this set that has been advertised near me on Facebook for a while https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/449336172772010/