fry61

On the plug & play issue --- check if the cigar lighter/power point in the car is live all the time --- easy to just plug the CTEX charger straight in with a suitable plug fitted. Our kit with a tiny battery remains on CTEX charge for weeks at a time, & all O.K

Take all the gear shift covers off first & check for good all round clearance in all gears & differing throttle use. A lot of problems ( mine included ) were down to just a slight touch between shift & scenery

Laverstock ?? to EOSB --- have a good run.

Blown/blowing fuses are easily tested for by putting a high wattage lamp in place of the fuse --- the lamp will glow with increased brightness giving the size of the short /& indicate when its happening --- without the brief show only available from replacing the fuse --- also no more damage will be done to the wiring provided the cable/fuse size is compatible --- can't think that old car wiring wasn't O.K for a 60/75 watt lamp replacing the fuse.

If at all possible, take your car to IVA on a trailer; it is possible ( though highly unlikely given the build quality ) that the examiner could issue a prohibition notice preventing the car being driven home. Also if it rains on test day it will avoid giving the tester a wet, road dirt covered vehicle.

I test for correct ? inflation by feeling the temperature of the tread after few dozen miles on dry roads ( not ragging it ) & judge them to be O.K if pleasantly warm. But that could all vary with tyre compound, I suppose.

Tyre contact patch with the road must have been thimble size!!!!

Check the brake pedal is fully returning --- & causing failure to allow fluid flow from reservoir for another "bite" of the pads.

You probably have --but I'll mention it any-ways --- have you checked tyre pressure --- think most of our cars run between 18/20 psi cold.

--------- Transposed to a camber wedge ------------ & run with bolts that are loaded at an angle -- BENT --- would rather wear the tyres to suit --- still get plus 25K before on limit. What we did when banger racing was something else --- the intention was not to take the car back home so broken at the side of the track indicated a "GOOD DAY" Each to their own -- Triumph Heralds seemed to manage.

Could try a cowl around the existing fan -- if the edge of the fan is shrouded ,say 2" & close to the blades most tip loss of air will be reduced.

Nice comfy workshop for assembly there, Chris.

We have a heater in Florin pushing warmed air into the foot-wells ( & ducted to screen). Sylvia has a National Trust waterproof blanket for waist down & in the drivers side I have fixed a velcro strip to the underside of the dash from tunnel to side panel. A black bath towel with velcro is fixed in place & tucked down each side of the seat, I may get a little warm & damp from stray water but many hundreds of miles have been travelled with this & the fabric half doors & surrey top.

Raising the ride height of the rear will reduce all the above angles as well --- the problem is because our cars are set a lot lower than Ford intended. Our back end still sits at an angle but tyre wear/profile is acceptable --- probably due to ride height as no wedges fitted --- didn't like the idea of the bolts being forced to work at an angle.

Have a go at re-furbing the starter solenoid first, a lot of poor output problems of starters is down to the main contacts being burnt/pitted. There is a good write up of solenoid re-build in this month's CKC mag.

Glad I fitted trailer mudguards to Florin.

Hi Mark, think I have mentioned before -- Florin's 'bone bushes were installed greased -- with a grease nipple added ( 1/4" UNF ) fitted at build. The theory being I could grease the bushes once a year & forcing grease in would help ensure water ( & corrosion ) stayed out. An added advantage is if the bushes need removing hydraulic pressure will force one out after the wish bone is removed from chassis mount. 50K miles down the road & bushes are still tight but free to rotate --- no three-penny bit action.

Memory fade Maca, on second thoughts; think I moved Florin's relay during her build.

That's the standard Ford fuse/relay box, think the flasher relay is either the red or grey in the middle.

With the bar fitted to Florin, removal of only the ball would give a flat -ish platform to support the spare ; if required. But why ???? If carrying your bike the punchured wheel could be carried on the handle-bars & off you cycle to the local garage!!!

This old fellow can't find a pic ATM. Not difficult to imagine though. Cut hoop off & de-burr ends, find/turn on lathe two sections of thick walled pipe which need to be a virgin fit in the tubes. cut to length of over hang required to heavy 40 mm angle iron. A good tac weld required now to keep all in alignment , Take off car & complete welding, drilling for ball & electrics if needed. When the complete tow bar is re-fitted drill & bolt under boot. I used a 50 mm/ M24 tail hitch so only needed a hole in the angle iron. If later used for a trailer I would suggest a 10 mm bracing bar (x2 ) from angle iron to top tube near roll-bar braces, threaded at base to impose a triangulation force on the hitch -- will prevent any bending force on the car chassis tubes where they terminate at cut off point. Hope that helps.

On our 2B4 we removed the hoop back to the body-work & fitted a tow bar for our trailer tent --- no problems -- even on a tow down to Le Mans.

If possible, Richy; could the title be amended to read " Cancelled "or " Postponed " Thanks.

Last thing I read/remember was that they can be installed & adjusted to suit before IVA ------ BUT the adjusting bar then needed to be welded solid so no further adjustments possible ---- then off to see the nice man at IVA.

Is it possible to "touch up" the trick colour if it gets scratched?