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Everything posted by Sparepart

  1. Dave, I am interested in this, especially as you have them fitted, with a bit of negative camber the top of the wheel is going to move closer to the outrigger, has this been a problem ?, also has the self centering been affected ? also there must be a change in the angle at which the bearing at the top of the spring is loaded and some sideways pressure on the shock absorber shaft ?. I would be interested in your observations/experience and hear of what benefits this modification has realised.
  2. I just have to comment to add agreement with what the others are saying. As an Exmo builder and owner I would say that only a masocist would try to put one together today and get it through approval. There are parts of the kit that would be saleable, GRP, front shocks and springs, and there might be a reconditioned steering rack, and even a windscreen could be wanted. However you might end up just disposing of the bodyshell. If it's a stainless shell you might find an Exmo owner with a zinc plated steel shell that wants to swap over as a project. Not sure if that would be legal ? The donor Sierra could be worth something, I read "Practical Classics" magazine, they have cars of that age in their free ads pages ... who know? Whatever, I wish you luck, it can't be easy given the circumstance of the disposal.
  3. Googling what fuse ratings are used on a "classic" mini, gives this link:- https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/251403-fuses-by-location-circuits-covered-data/ You will note that on later models the WW fuse is 15 amps, what you are now using.
  4. One small piece of information - You will need to measure the thickness of the anti roll bar, there are three dimensions, 24mm, 26mm and 28mm, obviously the two bushes that hold the anti roll bar in place need to be for the thickness of yours. Maybe I should use the word "diameter" not "thickness".
  5. Try this link. It's a picture from a manual, supposed to be Transit 92+. http://www.ok.eclipse.co.uk/pictures/transit/92onlightschem.jpg
  6. Sparepart

    Chassis VIN

    The DVLA website does cover this, you need to write a letter and ask them for a VIN. See this link: https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval/individual-vehicle-approval You write to: K and R DVLA Swansea SA99 1ZZ
  7. Try these links on eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151286890101 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153525812726
  8. You ask "how do people learn this". IMO we don't normally act pro-actively as you are seeking to do. We tend to "learn" by fixing our own problems when they arise or as part of implementing a "project" like building a whole car or making an upgrade to an existing one. Much depends on your background knowledge of electricity in general, did you study Physics in school, do you understand the basics of simple circuits, OHMs law, relays, electromagnets etc.... if not then why not pay around £50 for a kids educational kit on "Electricity and Magnetism". Have fun as you put together basic circuits, understand how electricity behaves. Then get your hands on the circuit diagrams for the various parts of a cars electrical systems, youll find these on line, in loads of places, concentrate on a bit at a time, for example, how is the ignition spark generated ?, how does a light flash, why does a fuse melt ?. Then, when, in the real world, you face a real problem, like the rather general question "The guages don't work" you will instinctively know how to go about looking in more detail at the various wires and sensors that might be involved. This is just my advice for what it is worth.
  9. Oh! you just posted the fact it was fixed while I was writing this ..... so no need to read it. (post deleted)
  10. Is it possible to remove the main motor from the housing and see if there is a bolt or fixture that is hidden, i.e. goes into the solenoid from within the housing. I guess if there is then a special spanner might be needed ...just a thought.
  11. You want thoughts or comments, well, before you get involved with a Robin Hood sevenesque vehicle you will have to forget about "conformity", each car has been assembled from a kit of parts that required a great deal of fettling by the builder. These cars were not bolted together over a few weekends from carefully crafted parts that were guaranteed to fit with each other, like you might expect from Westfield or Caterham, but then they did not cost anywhere as much as a "top end" kit either. Even in your old days with Minis, the design, and fit of bits and pieces was guaranteed off the shelf and there was a Haynes manual for reference. With a Robin Hood you will enter a new world of engineering challenges. At least by buying an already assembled example which has an MOT etc you will save much toil. This is balanced by little knowledge of how well the builder managed to overcome the assembly challeges. So my thought is, think about this before you invest hard earned cash, owning a Robin Hood is a challenge that many find very rewarding, including myself, I also like Marmite.
  12. Oh, yes, in the small print above the box on the inspection form, it says "Design Weights", I should have gone to Specsavers..... in fact I now have an apointment for the 6th... so sorry, I don't know how much the car weighs after all.
  13. At the time of SVA my EXMO weights were front axle = 519KG rear axle 519KG thats with spare wheel, fullish tank and myself in the car, yes, exactly the same weights front and back, thats why I remember. So total = 1038KG a bit heavy I guess, perhaps too many Pizzas before the test?
  14. You might want to consider purchasing a steering column with the switch and barrel etc. For exampe: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Used-Genuine-Ford-Sierra-Mk2-steering-column-barrel-and-key-/373650618339 Cost £50 .... too expensive ?
  15. There is part of a previous thread that might help regarding the method that uses fishing line, look at this:- https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/49253-another-exmo-/page/5/
  16. A million years ago when I was a poor student I ran a Ford Anglia on a series of 109E engines from a scrap yard, only a three bearing crank, very very worn, but the big end knock was more of a grumbling sound rather that what sounds like a "clattering" in this case ..... anyway ....in all cases the oil pressure warning light would flicker on/off when idling and hot. What is happening with the oil pressure warning light in this case ??
  17. At great expense, I have comissioned a technical drawing of the basic way a fuel gauge is wired up. The principles might help you figure out which wires you need to connect to what in your case.
  18. I agree. I looked at the Kitspares product that you probably have. https://kitspares.co.uk/collections/fuel-system/products/fuel-sender-unit It does not match the drawing above because it is probably for a really basic Sierra maodel, maybe the pickup. The sender with the three pins is more complicated because as well as the variable resistance for the fuel gauge it can also be linked up to two other features of higher spec Sierras, that is, the trip computer and the low fuel level warning lamp. So for most folk with a kit car only one of the three connectors on the sender unit is used. Essentially that is what you have, a sender unit that has the single needed connector.
  19. There is a previous thread that discusses the resistance values at the pins of a working sender. https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/49494-sender-unit Unfortunatey niducan's photos no longer seem to be accessible, note one pin goes up in resistance, one down and the other stays constant, so it is possible to wire the conections up so that a full tank might read empty and vice versa, I think.
  20. Sparepart

    New 2B Owner

    Am I correct in supposing that the windscreen is removed before taking it for an MOT ? then replaced after ?
  21. Wow! what a car, surrounded by the bits and pieces of my rebuilding, looking at all the work still to do, I heard a whisper saying, "Throw this load of tat away and buy that car!". At least, as I continue, I can see what is possible, eventually, perhaps, sometime, maybe.
  22. I notice that you are a recently joined member, so i feel I have to mention that unless you are replacing an existing hood, and hence have an accurate pattern, there is going to be a fitting exercise involved. This is because during construction the windscreen position was determined by the builder, there were no pre-drilled holes for the pillar mounts in the factory bodyshell. This also applies to any frame or studs that were fitted. That is to say eatch hood will be unique, starting from a hood of generally correct proportions. You also did not mention sidescreens etc ... do you have some already ? I apologise if you are already on top of this stuff, I know that it does not help to get a response that does not suggest a solution, only raises more questions. Although not urgent, I too am on the lookout for a hood, frame, sidescreens etc for an EXMO so will be keeping an eye on this thread.
  23. Ah, I was wondering how it might work, floatation seemed unlikely, I thought perhaps a change in capacity between two plates, but a rise in temp is a good possibility. I threw away the "Auxiliary Warning Module" to which the sender should be connected a long long time ago. I'll check the resistance, if its a heating element there should be a lowish resitance, maybe like 10 ohms. Perhaps then I can gently heat it from outside, wave a flame at it, and see if it goes open circuit. In any event if I do want to use it again, with no Auxiliary Warning Module, I would need to design a circuit to power it correctly and illuminate a lamp when the circuite opens .... mmmm... probably leave that to a winter project.
  24. Her is a photo of one thats for sale on the web.
  25. The hole in the block is about 1/2" diameter on the offside near the mounting arm but right down just above where the sump starts. The sensor is then quite long about 6 inches roughly, a long thin metal probe with a wide "bung" at the top where the sensor wire exits to a connector. When the "bung" is in the hole the end of the sensor is then down in the sump at a similar depth to the end of the dipstick.
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