IanS

All pistons for that engine had relief for 4 valves, just how ford made them

my seats are about as stable as Richard describes

The floor needs proper reinforceing where the bolts go through the floor. I have 1inch angle iron spreading the load. I have a bolt through the runner clamped with a nut then a second nut to a penny washer and through the floor to the angle iron where it has a further nut to clamp the angle firmly. The 2 nuts either side of the floor allow some adjustment to get the seat level. The angle iron is further bolted to the floor in several places spreading the load.

Having built my own drivers seat when copying it for the passenger side I found that the monocoque has the tunnel intentionaly offest to allow a reasonable width for the foot pedals and it did not fit in passenger side, mos needed.

only the sender would be affected by the higher temps, nothing else could be affected.

I am begining to suspect a valve not seating properly in no3.

Old bottle that held power steering fluid bottle should work :)

Jim the links on that page need updateing as Daves site has moved to http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/

Fairly small leaks in the exhause can have a big effect. The lambda sensor is looking for no oxygen in the exhaust so a small leak brings some O2 into the exhaust and hence the lambda sensor. As regards the oil leak you can either live with it or remove the head checking all surfaces are flat.

Leak in the exhaust before the sensor could draw in air. Thus fooling the ECU into running rich. Oil consumption could be a seperate fault and valve stem seals are a first port of call Cam cover gasket is a posibliity for the oil between cam banks.

I like it when a plan comes together.

On the sierra the reverse was on fuse 5 30A if that helps, also did headlight wash/wipe.

Mine had switched live as black. Black/blue trace to the light.

Sounds like a corroded hazard switch. Spray hazard switch with switch cleaner (Maplin sell it) and opperate several times. If only one indicator dash light then it does not flash in hazard mode only the bulb in hazard switch flashes.

Sierra connections. Outer 2 connected together. One goes to light in dash the other is a test switch normally wired to hand brake so as to test every time hand brake is on. The center is earth. float drops and all three connected together, light goes on.

if you have the sierra sender it has 3 connections. 1 fuel level 2 fuel flow (rarely fitted) 3 fuel low. it sounds like you are connected to 2 or 3.

20/50 oil for a pinto anything thinner is too thin. This is cheep so just change the oil and filter. Oil pressure switch normally operate around 8 to 12 psi. Thin oil in a warm engine will always cause the light to flicker at tickover, As long as you have the correct oil level low pressure not necessarily a problem. I had a morris 1000 that I drove for 80,000 miles with the oil light flickering when hot at tickover.

Sender almost always in top of tank, it makes getting it sealed easier. 7 type cars almost always have thier tank right at the back, just dont get rear ended

Normal practice is to fuse the OS position lights seperately from the NS. Double check fuses.

If you take off the lens from the light cluster you should be able to see a wire to a zinc coated earth tag connecting all lights bodies. Disconnect this and run a new wire to somewhere inconspicious and out of road spray (inside of boot comes to mind) and useing a self tapper create a new earth.

Where ever the builder saw fit is the short answere. Often a brown wire to a terminal screwed to the bodywork near the light.

Sounds like a bad earth. That is the first thing I would check with those faults as it is probably the only comon factor.

Engines tend to get better efficiency the hotter they run. So they need a higher coolant pressure the hotter thay are run, and MPG is a selling point. So running a bit cooler due to lower temp thermostat and lower temp switch on for fan will allow a lower presure coolant system. If fitting a lower pressure cap obviously frequent checks on coolant level required on the first few runs.

The original kit came with mini chrome plastic trim. This covered the front and rear of the bonnet. The trim was widely available to cover the external seams on the original mini, I have not looked to see if I can find it recently. Yes it should overlap up to the seam line on the nose.

Sounds like you have a very early transformer input lucas tacho. Try changeing the number of turns through the input clip. must be 30 years since I last used one of these.