IanS

Sounds like a corroded hazard switch. Spray hazard switch with switch cleaner (Maplin sell it) and opperate several times. If only one indicator dash light then it does not flash in hazard mode only the bulb in hazard switch flashes.

Sierra connections. Outer 2 connected together. One goes to light in dash the other is a test switch normally wired to hand brake so as to test every time hand brake is on. The center is earth. float drops and all three connected together, light goes on.

if you have the sierra sender it has 3 connections. 1 fuel level 2 fuel flow (rarely fitted) 3 fuel low. it sounds like you are connected to 2 or 3.

20/50 oil for a pinto anything thinner is too thin. This is cheep so just change the oil and filter. Oil pressure switch normally operate around 8 to 12 psi. Thin oil in a warm engine will always cause the light to flicker at tickover, As long as you have the correct oil level low pressure not necessarily a problem. I had a morris 1000 that I drove for 80,000 miles with the oil light flickering when hot at tickover.

Sender almost always in top of tank, it makes getting it sealed easier. 7 type cars almost always have thier tank right at the back, just dont get rear ended

Normal practice is to fuse the OS position lights seperately from the NS. Double check fuses.

If you take off the lens from the light cluster you should be able to see a wire to a zinc coated earth tag connecting all lights bodies. Disconnect this and run a new wire to somewhere inconspicious and out of road spray (inside of boot comes to mind) and useing a self tapper create a new earth.

Where ever the builder saw fit is the short answere. Often a brown wire to a terminal screwed to the bodywork near the light.

Sounds like a bad earth. That is the first thing I would check with those faults as it is probably the only comon factor.

Engines tend to get better efficiency the hotter they run. So they need a higher coolant pressure the hotter thay are run, and MPG is a selling point. So running a bit cooler due to lower temp thermostat and lower temp switch on for fan will allow a lower presure coolant system. If fitting a lower pressure cap obviously frequent checks on coolant level required on the first few runs.

The original kit came with mini chrome plastic trim. This covered the front and rear of the bonnet. The trim was widely available to cover the external seams on the original mini, I have not looked to see if I can find it recently. Yes it should overlap up to the seam line on the nose.

Sounds like you have a very early transformer input lucas tacho. Try changeing the number of turns through the input clip. must be 30 years since I last used one of these.

Standard fuel sender is earthed through the body of the tank. One wire went to guage and the other went to a fuel low light. Dash readout connected to the sender on one terminal with the other to a voltage regulator and to +12V.

short answere yes.

Do it right the first time. At least I got the wireing right, looking at a gearbox rebuild as I did not get that right.

Take out the studs holding it to the head. Remove the engine mount exhaust side (after putting a jack under the sump!) unbolt brake master cylinder from servo and lift about one inch. Then can be just jiggled out. At least this works for me.

My reaction is that above a certain air speed the cooling of a radiator plateaus out, depends on how many rows the rad has the more the higher the needed air speed. But 20 MPH through the rad should be near the max cooling any more air has little effect.

Harder part is getting the oil out of the lines to the jets. I am guessing that the old man found out when he cleaned the windscreen. Lots of fairy needed.

The dynamo is not intrinsically positive or negative earth. If it is a lucas with a seperate mechanical voltage regulator (some times called a control box) then all that is needed to change polatity is to flash the field winding. Positive earth was comon in the late 50s through the early sixties to allow the early transistor radios to work. The dynamo starts chargeing useing the residual magnetic field, if the residual field is wrong the dynamo will fairly rapidly discharge the battery. Flashing the dynamo (which should be done every time the dynamo is taken to bits) involves taking a wire from the battery live (negaitve if you have positive earth) to the field terminal on the dynamo and leaving it connected for about one second to establish the correct residual field.

Might be a good thing to move this to somewhere public so that prospective members can see it. IanS

Looking at the pics it is stainless so not a zintec which is zinc coated steel.

Is your engine and starter standard? if so use the same as ford used, measure the diameter of the copper to get the size. For most engines 25mmsq (about 170A) is adequate. The starter is very intermittant in operation and overloading for the short time you use it should not cause problems.

The Exmo kit had a pair of folded metal sleds loose to move on the floor of the engine bay. They had a pair of steel boxes welded in the middle which were the engine mounts. The instructions were to position the sleds to suit the engine and bolt into position on the engine bay floor. The standard saloon engine mounts (4 bolts to the engine) went to the rubber mounts as shown above which lowered into holes in the top of the boxes and were held in place with 2 captive bolts welded into the box. My doner was an 83 2l hatchback and between the doner and kit everything was suplied.

Sierra based mono kit. Narrow body so probably 93 to 95 originaly

I realise that you do not want to point fingers but I sure would like to know who to avoid.