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brumster

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Everything posted by brumster

  1. Errmmm... just an accurate fuel gauge, or am I just a bit weird ?!
  2. Could always buy it and just sit in it and rev it every day, probably get your moneys worth from just doing that
  3. Unless GBS have some, you'll probably need to CAD them up and get a metal cutting place to cut you some
  4. fwiw, the original windscreen supports provided with the Exmo looked different to yours - they had wider webs and were quite basic. I think the angle might be a bit different, but I'll let you decide
  5. I've got an optimate 3 which I've had for *utterly ages* (like, 20 years) and it does my dry cell batteries fine - I've used it on motorbikes and also the dry batteries in the kit car and a competition car. More recently I purchased a NOCO and I must say I am really impressed with it for the money; I bought it because I needed 2 connected at the same time and also I'd bought a Lithium battery for the motorbike - the optimate wouldn't do that, being so old. If you're only looking to maintain a battery, then the base model 1 amp NOCO will be perfectly fine and at £33 honestly, it's a cracking bit of kit and a bargain at that. If you was after something to charge up a flat battery in a short period of time then sure, no, it's going to struggle - but if you're just after a maintainer it will do you proud.
  6. I don't mean to sound cruel but whoever told you the Exmo is an 'exotic' was having a laugh We bought our Exmo in 96/7, there had been a batch before us, so the above dates ring true to my memory - it didn't run for long. They were picked up in batches; everyone turned up to the factory "en masse" to collect what must have been 50 to 100 kits in one day! Quite a fun day actually Most Exmos had a Ford 4-pot SOHC ("Pinto") put in them, 1600/1800/2000cc. Most people were buying Exmo's as a budget build so I don't recall anyone putting anything special in them, bar a couple of Ford V6 lumps. They were very much aimed at the budget end of the kit car market, that was their selling point (single donor, and the kits were incredibly cheap) so *most* customers were buying with that in mind - hence used as much of the donor car as they could (Sierra). There will obviously be exceptions - but *generally* that was the pattern with the Exmo.
  7. I never managed to get much of a recentre effect on the Exmo; there was a little bit at small steering inputs but there was an "over-centre" effect where, past a certain point, there was none whatsoever. At extreme steering angles, the wheels would actually fall outward into the turn - bloody dangerous! When I put the tie bars on I tried to push the strut bottoms forward as much as seemed reasonable to do but you have to remember that the way the tops mount, anything other than perpendicular to the buttress (and the top bearing) you're loading up that bearing incorrectly and potentially bending the damper rod (although I'd bet the buttress would bend first, particularly if you haven't done the re-enforcing mod). I don't think it's probably possible to get the desired/ideal amount of caster without re-thinking the way it all mounts up top, maybe with some sort of spherical bearing that would allow the strut to angle forwards. Even then, you'd have a point at which the springs would start to interact with the buttress and put a stop to any further adjustment :). I think maybe your best bet is to, as you suggest, push it forward as much as you're comfortable doing given the points above. If you moved to tie bars instead of the ARB, you'd have some inherent adjustability by turning the rod ends in/out of the tie bar (up to a limit obviously). And to be honest, the extra compliance you get with tie bars over the ARB is a far greater overall improvement - thoroughly recommend it.
  8. I'd say you've definitely got to do something about the position of that rad and the ability for air to flow through it - it's tight and messy in there, hard to see from photos so apologies if I get it wrong but it looks like there's all manner of things stopping a good passage of airflow, let alone the fact that it's hanging around in open space rather than having anything effectively controlling the air flow through it. Moving it even just the other side of that shock arrangement would allow you to use the nosecone as something to butt panels/ducting up like Richy's lovely arrangement (slightly angling you'll get away with). If I needed to swap to a smaller radiator to get it in there, I'd even do that, sell that massive aftermark ali rad for good money and get a smaller OEM one out of a hatchback/etc. I tell you it'd still have plenty of cooling capacity, people love to think they need massive expensive aftermarket radiators but it's just not necessary when you've got proper, decent airflow through it.
  9. Q plate : I'd say yes. It *shouldn't* and people like to make out it doesn't, but I think realistically, it does, there's a bit of Q-plate snobbery that we don't like to talk about :). Up to you really, these cars aren't typically investments so do you really care? Ignore what other people think. I've seen good and poor examples of Westfields just as much as Robin Hoods but, on the basis there are more Westfields out there, and I suspect a lot of them were factory built, you *tend* to see more good examples of Westfields. I'm generalising, but I feel that's probably fair to say, particularly with the older models. Yeah we'll all chip in and critique your choice on eBay, I'm sure I'll get the popcorn, wait one...
  10. I've always put fans on the back of my cars rads than the front, just habit I think, I've heard people argue over the benefits of either but I suspect it's 6 of one, half a dozen of the other :). No clearance issues here so it's neater and less likely to get damaged, but obviously my car is a different setup to yours, being a Zero and with a different engine, my clearance behind the rad is pretty massive. I would say yes, mine is a 12" or possibly a 10". It's a SPAL. Radiator is Seat Ibiza/Cordoba diesel but again, not being an S7, that's probably irrelevant for your setup.
  11. Any pics without the nosecone on? In addition to the very valid points above : to me, in your last-but-one pic, it looks like there is a gap at the left side of the rad? If there's no ducting in the nosecone, then air will get scooped in via the nosecone front and (assuming we're at speed here) will take the path of least resistance to get back out again to low pressure. Depending on the course through the engine bay - I see side vents on the right, I'm going to guess there's one on the left too (?) - I'm guessing it will go straight through this nice, convenient gap at the side of the rad, and out the side vent, and very little of the air will take the arduous route through the radiator matrix The "proper" way to do it :
  12. Yeah, no pics for me either, sorry!
  13. Be good to see pics. In my experience with seeing cars that have overheating issues it is almost 90% of the time down to bad air flow design. Failure to control the consumption of air into the nosecone and THROUGH the radiator (by ensuring there are no lower-pressure routes around the radiator instead of through it), and likewise blocking the flow of air once it's gone through the radiator - blocking the back of the rad, or not giving the air any suitable low-pressure exit route out of the engine bay. It could still be bad rad, blocked channels, knackered 'stat or whatever, granted, but if I was generalising, I'd go with the above....
  14. GTM Libra? All the weather protection you need then (they do a couple and soft top version, and the coupe has a removeable roof section)...
  15. Assuming you mean the outer ones (where the ARB fits, originally) then if you can still get them, P100 bushes from Ford are a higher grade (ie. bit of an upgrade) without going all-out on solid poly bushes. More cost-effective upgrade, we did this on our old Exmo.
  16. Is it for motorsport use? If not, you don't ultimately *have* to put it anywhere, but obviously stuck in the engine bay makes it difficult to get to if you need to isolate the electrics because of, say, a fire or electrical short... If you just want it to save the battery over periods of inactivity then not so much of an issue.... (although I'd argue the issue lies somewhere else really if that's the case!)
  17. Have always used Facet low pressure pumps since the 90's, never had one fail on me yet. No-name high pressures ones, that's a different story, but LP stuff... have always used Facet and have had no issues. Mind you none of the cars were particularly high-mileage (all kits/competition cars) !!
  18. Yeah I hate those too. Personally I would just put the copper core in there and nip it up, then stress relief the rest of the wire by somehow attaching it nearby, so that there's no flex on the piece going into the connector. This could be heat-shrinking it onto the switch in question (so some heat shrink that envelopes a good length of the insulated part of the wire, but also goes over the switch, therefore 'holding' it in place) or otherwise just clamping/cable tie/hot glue the cable onto some surface nearby. I would just worry about constant flexing of the cable where it enters into the screw terminal fatiguing it, so if you prevent that, you should be all good. Don't be tempted to solder
  19. I would only use those eazibleeds to get the initial fluid into the lines, I'd then move to the more "manual" approach. I don't know the reason why this happens, but I'd guess it's because of air pockets maybe in the moving parts of the system (pistons) that you're not moving when you use an eazibleed? Sometimes it's a bit trial and error but I find pumping the pedal (on closed bleed nipples) sometimes consolidates air in the system, and likewise the old bleed pipe into a partially-filled recepticle really helps you visualise how much air is still in there. Surely you can find someone to sit and press the pedal for half an hour ? As said above, start with the longest run of brake pipe (normally nearside rear?) and work your way down to the shortest (normally offside front?)...
  20. I think Nelmo's advice is very sensible. Given the price Zero's have been going for recently (as evidenced on this forum), I'm not sure I'd personally pay £5k for any Robin Hood, but that's a general statement. Problem is you can get well built examples, and complete snotters, in *any* brand, so I'd focus on a quality build for your first kit car. My first kit back in the 90's was a GTM Rossa built by an engineer much respected by his peers, and I *still* ended up rebuilding it and still saw some 'surprising' quality of work on it so as with purchasing any car, buyer beware.
  21. You could put a Zero on the road for £15k, no problem at all. Obviously it massively depends on how much you're willing to concede with 2nd hand/recon, if you want everything brand new then it will be more of a squeeze, but it massively depends on spec of components and so forth. I could spout numbers from my Zero build from 2 years ago but it's of dubious value, since I'm so far off what is considered 'standard'. Rover K-Series, lots of tuning, non-standard suspension/gauges/wiring/seats, caterham gearbox, etc. it wouldn't really help you
  22. brumster

    gearbox oil

    On the old Exmo, I managed to get a length of transparent, flexible tubing (breather hose that came with a catch tank) in from the engine bay and down into the gearbox, I then hung it from the garage ceiling with a funnel pushed into it, and filled it (very slowly!) that way. Just if you don't want to do the hole-in-tunnel approach, that's all. Fast it 'aint but it works.
  23. Once you've exhausted the above investigations - I've got no idea if this is doable on a pinto, but on another brand engine (Peugeot) there are a variety of starter motor ratings well over 1kW, the most powerful being a diesel 1.7kW. All direct bolt-in replacements. Dunno if the same applies for Ford? I'm not talking aftermarket "hi-torque" (expensive) starters, just an OEM one from a possibly different model car fitted with the same engine, or something with the same starter pattern. Just putting that out there; I'll go lurk in the dark corner again now
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