Jump to content

brumster

RHOCaR Member
  • Posts

    1,840
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    97

Everything posted by brumster

  1. I'd say you've definitely got to do something about the position of that rad and the ability for air to flow through it - it's tight and messy in there, hard to see from photos so apologies if I get it wrong but it looks like there's all manner of things stopping a good passage of airflow, let alone the fact that it's hanging around in open space rather than having anything effectively controlling the air flow through it. Moving it even just the other side of that shock arrangement would allow you to use the nosecone as something to butt panels/ducting up like Richy's lovely arrangement (slightly angling you'll get away with). If I needed to swap to a smaller radiator to get it in there, I'd even do that, sell that massive aftermark ali rad for good money and get a smaller OEM one out of a hatchback/etc. I tell you it'd still have plenty of cooling capacity, people love to think they need massive expensive aftermarket radiators but it's just not necessary when you've got proper, decent airflow through it.
  2. Q plate : I'd say yes. It *shouldn't* and people like to make out it doesn't, but I think realistically, it does, there's a bit of Q-plate snobbery that we don't like to talk about :). Up to you really, these cars aren't typically investments so do you really care? Ignore what other people think. I've seen good and poor examples of Westfields just as much as Robin Hoods but, on the basis there are more Westfields out there, and I suspect a lot of them were factory built, you *tend* to see more good examples of Westfields. I'm generalising, but I feel that's probably fair to say, particularly with the older models. Yeah we'll all chip in and critique your choice on eBay, I'm sure I'll get the popcorn, wait one...
  3. I've always put fans on the back of my cars rads than the front, just habit I think, I've heard people argue over the benefits of either but I suspect it's 6 of one, half a dozen of the other :). No clearance issues here so it's neater and less likely to get damaged, but obviously my car is a different setup to yours, being a Zero and with a different engine, my clearance behind the rad is pretty massive. I would say yes, mine is a 12" or possibly a 10". It's a SPAL. Radiator is Seat Ibiza/Cordoba diesel but again, not being an S7, that's probably irrelevant for your setup.
  4. Any pics without the nosecone on? In addition to the very valid points above : to me, in your last-but-one pic, it looks like there is a gap at the left side of the rad? If there's no ducting in the nosecone, then air will get scooped in via the nosecone front and (assuming we're at speed here) will take the path of least resistance to get back out again to low pressure. Depending on the course through the engine bay - I see side vents on the right, I'm going to guess there's one on the left too (?) - I'm guessing it will go straight through this nice, convenient gap at the side of the rad, and out the side vent, and very little of the air will take the arduous route through the radiator matrix The "proper" way to do it :
  5. Yeah, no pics for me either, sorry!
  6. Be good to see pics. In my experience with seeing cars that have overheating issues it is almost 90% of the time down to bad air flow design. Failure to control the consumption of air into the nosecone and THROUGH the radiator (by ensuring there are no lower-pressure routes around the radiator instead of through it), and likewise blocking the flow of air once it's gone through the radiator - blocking the back of the rad, or not giving the air any suitable low-pressure exit route out of the engine bay. It could still be bad rad, blocked channels, knackered 'stat or whatever, granted, but if I was generalising, I'd go with the above....
  7. GTM Libra? All the weather protection you need then (they do a couple and soft top version, and the coupe has a removeable roof section)...
  8. Assuming you mean the outer ones (where the ARB fits, originally) then if you can still get them, P100 bushes from Ford are a higher grade (ie. bit of an upgrade) without going all-out on solid poly bushes. More cost-effective upgrade, we did this on our old Exmo.
  9. Is it for motorsport use? If not, you don't ultimately *have* to put it anywhere, but obviously stuck in the engine bay makes it difficult to get to if you need to isolate the electrics because of, say, a fire or electrical short... If you just want it to save the battery over periods of inactivity then not so much of an issue.... (although I'd argue the issue lies somewhere else really if that's the case!)
  10. Have always used Facet low pressure pumps since the 90's, never had one fail on me yet. No-name high pressures ones, that's a different story, but LP stuff... have always used Facet and have had no issues. Mind you none of the cars were particularly high-mileage (all kits/competition cars) !!
  11. Yeah I hate those too. Personally I would just put the copper core in there and nip it up, then stress relief the rest of the wire by somehow attaching it nearby, so that there's no flex on the piece going into the connector. This could be heat-shrinking it onto the switch in question (so some heat shrink that envelopes a good length of the insulated part of the wire, but also goes over the switch, therefore 'holding' it in place) or otherwise just clamping/cable tie/hot glue the cable onto some surface nearby. I would just worry about constant flexing of the cable where it enters into the screw terminal fatiguing it, so if you prevent that, you should be all good. Don't be tempted to solder
  12. I would only use those eazibleeds to get the initial fluid into the lines, I'd then move to the more "manual" approach. I don't know the reason why this happens, but I'd guess it's because of air pockets maybe in the moving parts of the system (pistons) that you're not moving when you use an eazibleed? Sometimes it's a bit trial and error but I find pumping the pedal (on closed bleed nipples) sometimes consolidates air in the system, and likewise the old bleed pipe into a partially-filled recepticle really helps you visualise how much air is still in there. Surely you can find someone to sit and press the pedal for half an hour ? As said above, start with the longest run of brake pipe (normally nearside rear?) and work your way down to the shortest (normally offside front?)...
  13. I think Nelmo's advice is very sensible. Given the price Zero's have been going for recently (as evidenced on this forum), I'm not sure I'd personally pay £5k for any Robin Hood, but that's a general statement. Problem is you can get well built examples, and complete snotters, in *any* brand, so I'd focus on a quality build for your first kit car. My first kit back in the 90's was a GTM Rossa built by an engineer much respected by his peers, and I *still* ended up rebuilding it and still saw some 'surprising' quality of work on it so as with purchasing any car, buyer beware.
  14. You could put a Zero on the road for £15k, no problem at all. Obviously it massively depends on how much you're willing to concede with 2nd hand/recon, if you want everything brand new then it will be more of a squeeze, but it massively depends on spec of components and so forth. I could spout numbers from my Zero build from 2 years ago but it's of dubious value, since I'm so far off what is considered 'standard'. Rover K-Series, lots of tuning, non-standard suspension/gauges/wiring/seats, caterham gearbox, etc. it wouldn't really help you
  15. brumster

    gearbox oil

    On the old Exmo, I managed to get a length of transparent, flexible tubing (breather hose that came with a catch tank) in from the engine bay and down into the gearbox, I then hung it from the garage ceiling with a funnel pushed into it, and filled it (very slowly!) that way. Just if you don't want to do the hole-in-tunnel approach, that's all. Fast it 'aint but it works.
  16. Once you've exhausted the above investigations - I've got no idea if this is doable on a pinto, but on another brand engine (Peugeot) there are a variety of starter motor ratings well over 1kW, the most powerful being a diesel 1.7kW. All direct bolt-in replacements. Dunno if the same applies for Ford? I'm not talking aftermarket "hi-torque" (expensive) starters, just an OEM one from a possibly different model car fitted with the same engine, or something with the same starter pattern. Just putting that out there; I'll go lurk in the dark corner again now
  17. lol yeah, remember with Emerald, nothing you change (except on the live adjustments page) keeps after you turn it off unless you push it back up. Download, Save to Disk, Change, Upload, Change, Upload, Change, Upload... etc edit: on live adjustments, only when you press Enter to store it
  18. Not sure I'd remove the fuel filter. You said you cleaned out the fuel filter, what did you do? Was this after the problem - ie. did the problem start purely on the basis of disconnecting the throttle body/cable, so the fuel filter is a red herring, or did the problem start after you cleaned the fuel filter? When did you remove it entirely? Are any of those things relevant, is what I'm getting at... did messing with the fuel filter (cleaning it and/or remove it) make things change in any way, either for the better or worse? Sounds like a fuelling issue to me, but if the problem is entirely present only after fiddling with the throttle cable connection, then it makes no sense whatsoever. If however it came about as a result of fiddling with the fuel filter, then it could be a wealth of things - crap in the injectors/rail/pressure regulator maybe? Poor fuel pressure, knackered fuel pump (get a fuel pressure guage)?
  19. Nah, don't think so. Matt's suggestion was the most obvious/likely one, that you'd effectively opened up the throttle at the default position and affected the idle, plus put the TPS out of kilter, but you say you've done that... so... the only thing that could have changed from what you describe is the throttle position. All I can suggest is reverse what you did in terms of the throttle cable, or disconnect the throttle cable temporarily and just play with the throttle body directly - maybe some tension in the cable (either now, or before) that has changed, has altered the position of the throttle at idle... opened it up sligthly I am guessing.
  20. Just in case - when you connect the laptop to the ECU, you don't get it downloaded automatically from the ECU straight away... you have to "pull" it from the ECU in the first instance, before you'll see it in the software. You then make your changes and push it back up. You'll see live adjustments without pulling, that's fine, but values in tables you won't see until you do a pull.
  21. brumster

    type 9 sierra

    From what you say, sounds like it might just be a worn aspect of the selector mechanism, a lot of which is accessibly pretty easily through the top 'hatch' and is pretty easy to replace if need be as it's one of the first things you disassemble out of the gearbox if rebuilding it.
  22. I don't believe so, but if present it must conform to the diagrams of the various indicator lights in the IVA guide
  23. Tell you what, carry on with your plan for tomorrow and I'll see what arrangements I can make... I might be able to jiggle things around. Don't change just for me
  24. edit: Oh wait, s**t, I can't do tomorrow, I'm on towing duty for some bloody horse!! Anyone fancy a different night?! :-S sorry!
×
×
  • Create New...