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Everything posted by brumster

  1. lol yeah, remember with Emerald, nothing you change (except on the live adjustments page) keeps after you turn it off unless you push it back up. Download, Save to Disk, Change, Upload, Change, Upload, Change, Upload... etc edit: on live adjustments, only when you press Enter to store it
  2. Not sure I'd remove the fuel filter. You said you cleaned out the fuel filter, what did you do? Was this after the problem - ie. did the problem start purely on the basis of disconnecting the throttle body/cable, so the fuel filter is a red herring, or did the problem start after you cleaned the fuel filter? When did you remove it entirely? Are any of those things relevant, is what I'm getting at... did messing with the fuel filter (cleaning it and/or remove it) make things change in any way, either for the better or worse? Sounds like a fuelling issue to me, but if the problem is entirely present only after fiddling with the throttle cable connection, then it makes no sense whatsoever. If however it came about as a result of fiddling with the fuel filter, then it could be a wealth of things - crap in the injectors/rail/pressure regulator maybe? Poor fuel pressure, knackered fuel pump (get a fuel pressure guage)?
  3. Nah, don't think so. Matt's suggestion was the most obvious/likely one, that you'd effectively opened up the throttle at the default position and affected the idle, plus put the TPS out of kilter, but you say you've done that... so... the only thing that could have changed from what you describe is the throttle position. All I can suggest is reverse what you did in terms of the throttle cable, or disconnect the throttle cable temporarily and just play with the throttle body directly - maybe some tension in the cable (either now, or before) that has changed, has altered the position of the throttle at idle... opened it up sligthly I am guessing.
  4. Just in case - when you connect the laptop to the ECU, you don't get it downloaded automatically from the ECU straight away... you have to "pull" it from the ECU in the first instance, before you'll see it in the software. You then make your changes and push it back up. You'll see live adjustments without pulling, that's fine, but values in tables you won't see until you do a pull.
  5. brumster

    type 9 sierra

    From what you say, sounds like it might just be a worn aspect of the selector mechanism, a lot of which is accessibly pretty easily through the top 'hatch' and is pretty easy to replace if need be as it's one of the first things you disassemble out of the gearbox if rebuilding it.
  6. I don't believe so, but if present it must conform to the diagrams of the various indicator lights in the IVA guide
  7. Tell you what, carry on with your plan for tomorrow and I'll see what arrangements I can make... I might be able to jiggle things around. Don't change just for me
  8. edit: Oh wait, s**t, I can't do tomorrow, I'm on towing duty for some bloody horse!! Anyone fancy a different night?! :-S sorry!
  9. Exactly. This is where I'd personally go. Even driving round in a (warm, dry) *bleep*box for the winter, at least you're not putting mileage and associated wear and tear onto your kit, you're arriving in a hopefully less stressed frame of mind, dry, comfortable, etc.
  10. So i did the Wales trip a few years back and the weather was pretty testing :). Given I've had kit cars with various levels of weather protection since the early 90's, I'm not against being a bit hardy with the elements and I'm more accepting of a wet knee than most... I just say this to put my answer into context... So the Zero has a home made surrey-style top that really was a last-minute thing put together a few days before the Wales trip. I was surprised how well it worked over the weekend and it certainly kept the worst off us and made the car useable in horrendous rain, in the dark, and so forth. I have a proper heater blower on the windscreen (*properly* extracting air from the exterior of the car) and that kept the car useable along with decent wipers. Side doors obviously. As David says above, the main area of challenge for me is the door fronts, this is where the rain gets in and it's hard to fully seal it. I think to do this as a weekly commuter, some distance, over the winter - you've got to be very committed . Don't think I'd fancy it myself...
  11. Yeah, it should only briefly short to ground to fire the injector. If the ignition is on but the engine isn't running, then (bar the initial prime function that the Emerald does before start-up) the injectors shouldn't be open...
  12. I believe you'll have 12v at one pin on the injector and, as you say, the other would go to the driver in the ECU which would short it to ground via a transistor driver. So you shouldn't see path to ground via those...
  13. As the revs drop (as it starts to presumably cut out, although in this instance he saved it/it picked up again) the MAP reading is going down on the graph but in reality it's a negative reading (negative pressure) so it starts off at -0.67 bar (rpm @ 1400) and goes up to -0.24 bar (rpm @ 500) as it starts to stall. Assuming it's all calibrated of course, I would take the actual pressure readings with a pinch of salt but that's what the values on the graph show as.
  14. Looking at your logs, you're getting 11.8v at the start but I assumed that's during cranking? Which is not bad - once she's fired up you've got just over 13v, although it does fluctuate with engine revs, anything from 12.3 to 13.3v. If your battery is flat then it may well be the alternator responsible, because in none of those logs are you getting anywhere near 14v to charge a flat battery - but if the battery was in tip-top condition then you wouldn't expect it to be. But if you've been doing lots of starting of the engine for short period, trying to diagnose this, without good long runs to charge it back up - then it may just be what it is; the battery has drained from all the repeated starting. That might be an unrelated issue - I can't see any suggestion that the voltage drop is causing the stall, more the other way, but remember that's only what the ECU is seeing, it's not necessarily what the coil, injectors, etc. are (although it's normally a fair indication, if not, I would say it's a wiring issue). Either way, I don't think it's the cause of your main problem with the engine just cutting out.
  15. Nothing seems at odds with the sensor values, on both of them it seems the revs drop first and everything else is 'as a result' of that, rather than being the source of the problem. The only thing it's hard to make a call on is the MAP, but I'd guess it's more effect rather than cause. You close the throttle towards the end as it's about to stall, and that recovers it a little, so it does suggest *maybe* it's related to inlet manifold vacuum (or boost in your case)... just as it's nose-diving to stall it's loosing inlet pressure, you close the throttle and it picks up again. So I think this is a dead end. This map hasn't changed right, the car was running fine on these ignition advance numbers and injector timings, you've not fiddled with it in any way? Given what you've done on the electrical side of things, I wonder whether it's worth turning attention towards air leaks or injector connections? The ECU is telling the injectors and the ignition the right thing but maybe they're not DOING the right thing because of bad connections, bad fuel pressure, etc etc. If you can get it running long enough you can go fiddling/wobbling connectors to see if you can trigger it, other trick is spraying brake cleaner around the various hoses/inlet manifold/etc and listening for a change in engine tone (it'll pick up if it's pulling the cleaner in anywhere), helps you narrow down where it might be. It's probably also worth someone for knowledgeable about forced induction (STU!) commenting here as there may be other parts to the puzzle I'm unaware of that might cause this... you lot and all your dump valves/etc
  16. No worries, leave it with me, might be tomorrow before I get to look at them anyway....
  17. Yeah... one would probably do. I'd also recommend you don't do them up tight unless you want the gelcoat cracking - I used lots of threadlock and "just nipped them up", if you get my drift.
  18. Well, fouled plugs could be a number of things (oil for example) unrelated to the coil/wiring but, if you feel that 2+3 could be an indicator, then a quick idea would be to swap the pins of the coil over so that the banks of the coil are swapped over - then, if the issue of fouled plugs moves to 1+4 you've discovered that it's something related to the coil or the trigger wiring to it. I would look to the Emerald logging approach again, but log a shedload of stuff this time. It might take a couple of attempts logging different things, but intermittent is good because you can then spot if something changes between the "running good" and "running bad" sections of your drive. Things I would be on the look out for : Battery : any massive change in voltage would be a good indicator of a problem Engine speed : essential reference to the other values Ign Advance : so we can see what the ignition advance is doing Inj duration : so we can see what the fueling is doing Inj timing : so we can check nothing weird is going on with injection timing MAP if you're using it Throttle/TPS Lambda O2 : will help us spot moments of lean/rich which might correlate against something else If nothing appears on the logs, then it would suggest something more physical with in engine induction/wiring, something degrading with heat maybe, or a bad connection such as loose earth strap, some sensor intrinsic to the operation of the engine (crank, tps, MAF, MAP, water temp, air temp, etc)... or air leak/etc but I'm not a forced induction expert to be fair. edit: You can save the log to a file (Data Logger -> Data -> Save to file) then share it with me and I can take a look-see if you want... better than a picture
  19. Much as I love sikaflex, I didn't want to entrust it so went with rivnuts, stainless domed bolts and chassis padding underneath :
  20. Firing *order* is 1-3-4-2, coil packs usually have 2 banks and fire every other cylinder (so, given that firing order, one side of the coil will do 1+4 and the other will do 3+2 - this gives the coil the best time to 'recharge' between firings). Wasted spark means each plug will fire on both of the upstrokes (ie. the compression stroke, which is obviously the key one, but they also fire on the exhaust stroke too - this isn't intended to perform any useful function but obviously it does mean if you have unburnt fuel in there on the exhaust stroke, the spark could potentially still ignite/burn something - this is useful to remember when chasing popping/banging and so forth).
  21. Glad you sorted it, enjoy the Atom!
  22. Yeah my old Exmo was Oxford Blue, looks closest to that, so +1 here also
  23. Radiused to 2.5mm? I can see the edges, they look radiused to me?
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