I've had the same problem with our attached garage, the smell went after about a day, but our floor is sealed and epoxy painted so any spillages won't sink into the floor if they are got up quickly.
One other thing I found was that the fire detectors would go off in the utility if I ran the car for any time in the garage
I used Car Builder Solutions edge trim number TRMSBU as it's self adhesive and follows a tight curve. I also gave up with the readily available rear view mirrors and fitted a genuine Ford one - no problems with vibration from that one!
This may help if you need to do anything more to your carb
http://www.classicfordmag.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/classic-ford-weber-dgv-rebuild-instructions.pdf
Check the column universal joints first as one of mine showed up as a notchiness and was worn. I had my rack stripped, checked and reset by Jay Gee over at Bilston 01902 404258 - didn't charge that much. He also said if I got him the quick rack parts he would fit them at the same time but he was concerned that the steering would be too heavy at parking speeds as no power steering and my tyres are quite wide at 205/40 x 17 so I never did it but sometimes wish I had!
Original Camber - NS cambered in 10 mm, OS cambered out 5 mm. If they measured to the centre of the balljoint (drag link) then there would effectively be different length wishbones as there is 15mm difference between the two?
Greg, my car suffered with the same list of faults yours has including the rubbishy bit of bent angle to support the rear coilovers and the rollcage mount. It's probably better for you to come over and see what's been done and you can take photos if you want. I've pm'd you a phone number
Rob
Hi Greg, I went through exactly what you are going to do! I live in Aldridge in the West Midlands and you are welcome to come over and measure and talk.
Rob
I found a chap who did stainless weld repairs on excavators but also had small enough gear to weld repair my monocoque 3A. He was the only person locally who was interested in the work so if you've got someone like that near you they may help out. I had to fabricate the reinforcing plates and he came round to the house to do the job.
I'm pretty sure that the car builder solutions catalogue shows the layout of a cooling system with an expansion and catch tank but I can't get to my copy
My pressurised expansion tank vents to a catch tank. If any water expands out of it it gets sucked back in as the water cools when engine is switched off. The expansion tank vent pipe goes down to the bottom of the catch tank
I've got a 3A and haven't got anything like the first 2 photos fitted on the car but I think the orate hats were for the indicator mounting. The bar is like IanS says and was fitted to mine but I removed it, cut a bit of the sides away and mounted a rectangular box section bar in its place but further back. That allowed my seats to go further back and let my boot enclosure panels to be secured to it
I just carry a spare relay (all my relays are the same). Never had one fail but if it did then a quick swap is all it takes, quicker than changing a sierra switch and smaller to put in the tool kit! If the main ignition relay fails then a small bit of hard wiring would get the car going again