kevin the chicken

They are destructive little buggers. Got to be up through the engine compartment then through a wiring harness hole or heater pipe. They can climb most surfaces and squeeze through a hole the size of a pencil. We have just caught a couple in the house, I did think we wouldn't have had the problem if we still had a cat as the dogs are uninterested. They would be interested in a cat though so that won't work. Best bait for traps is chocolate or toffee. I favour those chewy toffees that get l left in the selection box after xmas.

I personally would cap it off at the tank if you can. You don't want a leak from an old pipe where you can't see it, if it's terminated at the tank it's one more variable removed from the equation. If you did need it at a later date then you would want to start with new pipework. Can't be too careful with petrol

I run a 200 horse red top in a series 7 and the rad is situated behind the cross member with no problems. I did however block all the gaps around the rad so any air going in the nose cone has to go through it. I also put extra vents in the bonnet sides even though it has louvres in it so hot air can exit. I fitted a header tank to make filling without air pockets easy which works well

Check thermostat is opening properly and not blocked with scale,,check none of the hoses have collapsed internally and back flush the radiator are three easy ones to start with. Generally make sure everything is clear and flowing ok before you start to worry about gasket failure

I'd agree, mine looks as if it spends most of its time going through hedges. It has always looked that way since I started my ownership. The body has extra holes in it and scratches everywhere, way too far gone to benefit much from a polish. However the suspension is tight, the brakes are mustard and the engine pulls like nothing I've ever driven before. Plenty of money spent but all out of sight!

Ctek is a good make. All Cambridgeshires fire appliances use a version of their charger. They are left on all the time they are in the bays and they don't just keep the engine batteries topped up, there are radios and a light portable pump with batteries too

They look good. What I didn't mention is that by careful calculation and measurement it is possible to change wheel sizes and by selecting the correct size and profile of tyres still have the same rolling circumference so you don't effect ride height or speedometer calibration

Should have the offset stamped on the inside ie et 82 or similar. You need pcd which is pitch circle diameter , spacing of studs you need to measure in mm if you don't know and you need width and size of wheel. This governs the tyre size and choice . Plenty of choice in 15 inch not much in 14 for instance . Width is probably stamped on inside too ie 6j

I can hear mine when the ignition is on and it does make a lot of noise, perhaps it needs moving where it will vibrate less. It is mounted on rubber feet though. It has been like that for as long as I have owned the car and you can't hear itt or anything else for that matter once the engine is running. If it works then leave it alone, if it doesn't then replace it. You could always carry one as a spare, they don't take up a lot of room and are not extortionate in price

Having a series 7 it won't be quite the same for me but this does give me a good idea on how to set about it. Good pictures and description. Now just got to find the time!

I've never heard of that either. I have to stay with mine because my tester can't get in or out because of a bad hip but I'm quite happy to do that in case there is a problem which I can fix. Whatever next, no tests on red cars?

I used silicone hose for mine, it's available in several different sizes and angles. If you can't find exactly what you need you could buy two pieces and cut them and use a metal joiner. Also available on ebay. I prefer silicone as it is a bit more supple and easier to work with. You can get in different colours too.

They can be quite noisy but once the engine fires up there is no chance of hearing it on my car. I wired mine in through a switch on the dash so it wouldn't be running when I was messing around with the ignition system for one reason or another. There is also an inertia switch behind the dash which came from a Ford mondeo, complete with warning light as a good pothole can set it off and there's no shortage of those around here.

New alternator and some adjustment to one of the wires cured the problem. The connection on the end had been changed so that it didn't fit in the plug properly and therefore wasn't even touching the tab on the alternator. Maybe fixing this first would have cured the problem but I am happier now it has the correct unit on, belt tension adjustment is much better as the old one protruded too far out. Makes it easier to get the engine side panel back on. Onwards to the next problem now.

Think I will tax mine for six months from 1st June and then sorn when the weather turns or it gets too cold for me, most likely the latter. Would make the cost more reasonable for a car that does few miles.

Had a look at the alternator this morning and it is not the correct one for the tractor although the output is more or less correct. So a new one has been ordered so at least I am working with the right parts. This seems to be a common problem with old vehicles and I have learned not to swap like for like without checking original part numbers.

You can get hermes to pick up from your address too

The battery is brand new. The old one wouldn't hold a charge so I presume continual flattening had killed it. With the corona virus restrictions that are in place here at the moment it might be difficult to find a place to get it tested even if they were open so I may just buy a new one and hope for the best. They are available for about 60 or 70 pounds, money which I would rather not spend but I don't want to go trolling around east anglia with all the associated risks to find that it is dead anyway.

You are right with the fuel pressure, I had leaks everywhere on the carbs until I put a regulator on and adjusted the pressure down. I think I used 2 or 2.5 psi like you. They do need low pressure but plenty of flow when they get working properly.

I did check the belt but it seemed OK. It's all fairly easy to get at despite the front loader. I'm not really suspecting the wiring as there is the gradual dimming of the light as the revs increase

This is not on a kit but a tractor which I am using to dig a pond and swimming pool amongst other things but I guess the same answer would apply. When started the warning light glows brightly diminishing as the revs increase but never going out completely although I haven't tried it flat out at 2200rpm as I am not good enough to operate it at that speed! Is this likely to be down to the alternator, specifically the brushes or something else? It is a late seventies tractor so some parts are going to be tired

You certainly won't get tax exemption!

They will come with the overhaul kit, probably a fresh needle valve too which was the problem I had. Doesn't take much old fuel to make one stick

I'm all for progression and advancement but nobody mends anything any more. You used to be able to take your broken electrical items to a shop to get it mended but not today. Years ago people were driving rusty old cars until they literally fell to pieces but now it's gone the other way. We cut up cars at the fire station for drills and there seems to be nothing wrong with many of them, they are just old. If your engine or gearbox failed when I was younger you mended or changed it ,you didn't just scrap the car and buy another. It's only recently that it became impossible to walk thirty yards without clutching a plastic bottle of water, we still have a thing at home called a tap. Granted it hasn't come out of a himalayan mountain and trickled over a yaks back but it still does the same job. Much of the waste has happened in the last few years so although I take some blame I am not responsible for a lot of the waste left by the snowflakes and millenials

I had a needle valve problem with one of my webers. Car wouldn't start and eventually once I realised only two cylinders were getting fuel I took the top off the carburetor and saw it was stuck closed. Doesn't take much just a bit of old sticky fuel. Yours could be stuck open. It took a mechanic to point me in the right direction because I hadn't checked that all four cylinders were getting fuel. Lesson learned